Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Welcome to kingsnake.com's message board system. Here you may share and discuss information with others about your favorite reptile and amphibian related topics such as care and feeding, caging requirements, permits and licenses, and more. Launched in 1997, the kingsnake.com message board system is one of the oldest and largest systems on the internet.

Click here to visit Classifieds
Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research
Click here to visit Classifieds

Burmese python enclosure..

kilhd Feb 07, 2006 12:40 AM

Hello all..
I am in the burm forum alot.. I am soon going to build an adult burmese enclosure(i think) But have a few questions for you pros.. I want the cage at least 8 feet in length. I know for a burm it's more floor space is needed than height but I would also like to go a bit higher than "normal" say 3/4 feet? Maybe 2 feet deep.. I am no good with building but I got a couple of buds willing to help. (they also have the tools) What are your thoughts on this? Type of wood? Something to put on the floor to catch urine better than wood? How will it hold up to humidity? Plans on doors? I am open to any/all suggestion given to me. If anyone have plans for a similar cage as I explained please feel free to mail me remote@knology.net

ps.. please don't tell me to go to albinoburmese.com for those cage plans as I have them already I am simply looking for other options at this time. TIA

Replies (8)

chris_harper2 Feb 07, 2006 08:35 AM

I want the cage at least 8 feet in length. I know for a burm it's more floor space is needed than height but I would also like to go a bit higher than "normal" say 3/4 feet?

Is this a cage that you think you'll need to move often? If you're currently renting and/or plan to move soon a large cage can be a hassle. If so, you might think about making this cage so it can be disassembled.

If I were to keep burmese again I know exactly how I would build the cages. I would use some of the Russian/Finnish birch plywood that is so readily available nowadays. Unlike most plywood it comes in 5' x 5' sheets instead of 4' x 8'.

I would use this to make to cage sections at 5' x 30" x 30". You could go taller but 30" would be the best use of material and only 6" shorter than what you mentioned.

One end of each cage would have a large cut-out that would line up when the two cages were bolted or otherwise attached together. There would be a slight flange/lip on the cage floor where they attached but I would then fill the cage with substrate slightly above the height of this flange.

This would give you a 10'x30"x30" cage that could be taken apart and moved easily.

Type of wood?

Again, the Russian/Finnish birch plywood that comes in 5'x5' sheets. Very high quality for the price.

Something to put on the floor to catch urine better than wood?

A scratch and dent piece of formica, epoxy paint, scrap linoleum, vinyl film, Sintra, or FRP. Any of them will work well.

How will it hold up to humidity?

You can build 900 gallon fish tanks from plywood sealed with epoxy so it will hold up in a snake cage.

Plans on doors?

All personal preference. I would use sliding doors even though it would be a bit more tricky to pull off with the two-piece design. But that's just my preference.

kilhd Feb 07, 2006 12:00 PM

Thanks for reply guys.. I really like your idea chris about the 10'x30"x30" with two 5' cages. Is this type of wood something you can get at lowes or home depot? (the russian/finnish birch plywood) I have a few tubes of AGA Silicone for aquariums would that work to seal the corners and such? or do I need some e-poxy or things you mentioned? Also I think I might have someone who can get me all the scrap linoleum I need so would probably go with that for the floor.
Roughly about how much am I looking at for a total going by what you say in your reply? For wood, glass, e-poxy, anything else.. I really like the idea.. but I am not a millionaire. lol Possible to do something like that or similar for about $300? or do I need more. Thanks ALOT for the help everyone! Dunno what I would do without KS forums. hehe

chris_harper2 Feb 07, 2006 12:35 PM

I think the 10' x 30" base works very well. I have seen an awful lot of burms in 8' x 2' cages that seemed just a bit cramped, although the snakes seemed fine.

The extra 2 feet of length and 6" of depth really seems to add a lot. The Russian/Finnish Birch plywood is not absolutely necessary to build such a cage, but you'll waste a lot less material by using it. And the quality/cost factor is hard to beat. Last summer I could get 5'x5' panels in 1/2" for $21 and I live in an area where such supplies are expensive.

You'll probably want 3/4" for such a large cage.

I also like how it's relatively smooth compared to other similar priced plywoods. That makes finishing much easier regardless of what you use.

I have heard of this wood showing up at Menards but not at Home Depot or Lowes. Your area may be different. I have to go to a wood-working supply store to buy it.

The AGA silicone is fine but not absolutely necessary. Any 100% silicone will work.

Regarding epoxy or other finish, that really opens up a can of worms, so to speak. One thing I don't recommend is the deck paint or any other exterior finish as recommended on albinoburmese.com. Too many reasons to list, but I don't recommend them.

With a linoleum floor you don't have to be quite as choosy for what you use on the walls. In fact, you could even use linoleum on the walls as well. I think some of the faux-tile vinyl floorings would look great in a snake cage. I would still seal the walls and floor with something before applying it. I think Bighurt mentioned that in his reply or in another post and I agree.

I think first you need to decide if you want a clear or solid colored finish. Or do you want the pattern of a vinyl flooring on the walls as well.

For a burmese I would use one of the following on the walls, assuming a durable floor was already in the plans (in no particular order):

1) Vinyl flooring

2) Vinyl film (as used in the graphics industry)

3) Envira-Poxy, a waterborne, two-part clear epoxy from Kelly Moore.

4) BonaKemi Traffic, a two-part waterborne floor finish.

I would NOT use:

1) Oil-based polyurethane, despite it's excellent protection for the cost. The extended offgassing makes me uncomfortable.

2) Any exterior finish, as already mentioned.

One last thought regarding plywood and finishes. If you cannot find the Russian birch plywood or the prices have gone up, I have another suggestion. There is a company called Nova that makes a plywood that comes with a prefinished UV cure epoxy. The coating is said to be incredibly resistant. You can even scrub it with acetone to remove glue or other adhesives that leak onto it.

It is expensive but ends up costing less than buying plywood and finishing it with epoxy yourself. But the 8'x4' panel size may not be ideal depending on your exact goals for this project.

You'll have to find it locally, as having just a few sheets shipped in will be much too expensive.

Regarding cost, I'm horrible at such things. I tend to have a lot of misc. things laying around so I don't have to go out and buy them specifically for these projects. Things like screws, paint brushes, etc. I usually even have caulk or glue leftover from other projects. It's the little things that add up.

I suspect you could do it for $300.

kingsnaken Feb 07, 2006 04:37 PM

I really like Chris's Idea. How big is your Burm? Could you build a 5' section now, then add the other 5' when it gets bigger and you have more money? I think it would definately pay to do it right the first time. I wouldn't have any snakes that big (just my preference), but if I did, the 2 piece cage is a great idea. I can't imagine even moving an 8' cage too often. Do you have other snakes? If you used 4'x8' sheets, you could use the leftovers for another cage. Good luck, Derek

kilhd Feb 07, 2006 04:55 PM

The burmese right now is a bit over 5 feet. I have a ball python as well but I built a cage for him out of a bookshelf (just added a plastic drop down door and heat source which works grat) I am in my own house and don't plan on moving soon. I really like the two 5' cages together though. I think I will attempt it just have to find a place to get the wood. There are a few lumber yards around here and will go tom. and check a few. Really the only thing I am worried about are the doors. I would like to do sliding but as I said I am no handyman and hopefully one of my buds in construction will know this stuff. Glass is on the expensive side though, right? Would lexan, or any acrylic work as well? I don't want the cheapest material but I don't want to spend tons of $$$ on this.. Thanks again for all the info/replies.

kingsnaken Feb 07, 2006 05:51 PM

Glass is not really that hard. You buy track, and it comes in a set of top and bottom. If you do the two 5 footers, I would buy 2 5 foot sets or 6', I'm not sure what lengths you can get. Just make sure when you put the 2 sections together, that it is straight and the track lines up. The glass overlaps anyway, so the split should not matter. I think it will work great. Derek

bighurt Feb 07, 2006 08:46 AM

Ideally I would leave this to Chris but since I am up and since I had a Burm I felt a little bit like sharing.

>I want the cage at least 8 feet in length. I know for a burm it's more floor space is needed than height but I would also like to go a bit higher than "normal" say 3/4 feet? Maybe 2 feet deep..

I assume you meant 3 to 4 ft tall which is not a problem. Usually people try to make the cage really deep which is bad for Burm's cause one you have to get in the cage to reach the back and two they always deficate in the back far corner it seems. Since you said only 2ft I think your dimensions are appropriate although you didn't say how big the Burm was. Regarding depth I would go any deeper than what is within arms reach you don't want to expose your head and neck to a Burm or any large boid for that matter.

>I am no good with building but I got a couple of buds willing to help. (they also have the tools) What are your thoughts on this?

By all means let them help as long as they know their tools they should be rather helpful.

>Type of wood? Something to put on the floor to catch urine better than wood? How will it hold up to humidity? Plans on doors?

For the particulars I would normal recommend Melamine its cheap and relativly nice to work with. In your case I would probally shy against it due to Burmese Urates. One other thing you really didn't say how much you were willing to spend. Anyways Plywood would be good easy choice. You will of course need to seal it some how.

There are many ways to do this from polyurathane to marine epoxies the list is long and drawn out. I for one am not the one to explain it all. Regardless I would seal the wood as secondary precaution and use a laminate on top for the primary protection.

For this you could use Formica, FRP, or Sintra or other PVCX product. This would be primarily for the floor although you could laminate the entire interior although I hardly think its necessary.

What every you choose doubleing up on the floor protect would be the best way to go. Sealing the rest of the interior will be suficiant to protect against humidity and condesation. Like I said the floor is key. Just imagine a spilled water bowl now thats a mess in itself.

As far as doors go that is personal preferance. I use sliding Glass by-pass doors. They are conveniant and easy, not to mention a good barrier between you and the occupant. But drop down dors or swing open doors can easily be accomidated to any design.

I don't have any plans sorry, but Good Luck
Jeremy
-----
"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse

bighurt Feb 07, 2006 08:47 AM

Darn! I thought this was a good one.
-----
"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse

Site Tools