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New Uro not eating...

kellywood23 Feb 08, 2006 06:50 PM

Hi guys,

I have had my new Uro for about 5 days now and it is not eating anything. I have tried all sorts of greens ad veggies with no luck also.

I have her in a 20 gal. long (temperary) with sand substrate. A cat bowl that has bird seed in one side and repcal iguana food in the other. And of course, hide boxes.

The basking temp is about 120*, the ambient temp is about 90-97* and the cool side is 75*.

I have soaked her to make sure she was hydrated, but she did not do anything.

Any ideas on what to offer her. Also, does anyone know what type of Uro she is?

Thank you!

-----
Kelly Wood

1.1 Cherry Head Redfoots
0.1.1 Brazillian Redfoots
1.1 Leopard tortoises
1.3 bloodred Bearded Dragons
0.1 collared lizard
0.3 Dogs
1.3 Parakeets

Replies (15)

kellywood23 Feb 08, 2006 06:50 PM

np

-----
Kelly Wood

1.1 Cherry Head Redfoots
0.1.1 Brazillian Redfoots
1.1 Leopard tortoises
1.3 bloodred Bearded Dragons
0.1 collared lizard
0.3 Dogs
1.3 Parakeets

kellywood23 Feb 08, 2006 06:51 PM

np

-----
Kelly Wood

1.1 Cherry Head Redfoots
0.1.1 Brazillian Redfoots
1.1 Leopard tortoises
1.3 bloodred Bearded Dragons
0.1 collared lizard
0.3 Dogs
1.3 Parakeets

-ryan- Feb 08, 2006 08:24 PM

You've gotta leave the little guy alone for a while. I know they're so cute you just want to stare at them all day, or even worse, hold them, but those are the worst things you can do with a new reptile. It puts an unhealthy amount of stress on the animal, which causes it to not want to eat. It should take a little bit for the little uro to get used to its surroundings enough that it will eat, but it will take so much longer for this to happen if you handle him or bug him too much.

Also, what's the setup like? Do you have at least 2 good hides? Mind you, a half log is not a good hide. You need something that's very low for the uro to squeeze itself under, and remove itself from the prying eyes of any other animals or people around it. Make sure you maintain a basking spot temperature of at least around 120 degrees surface temperature...make sure that's not the ambient air temperature, because if it is, you will cook your uro.

jeune18 Feb 08, 2006 08:28 PM

it looks like a mali to me but someone might come along saying its a geryi. however, she does look rather skinny. with any new animal, i would recommend taking it to the vet and getting a fecal done to make sure she does not have any parasites. parasites can make them lose their appetite. it was a good thing to soak her when you got her.

try to make that 20 gallon as temporary as possible, i am surprised you can keep that temp gradient in it.

also moving a uro is stressful, she may be freaked out. sometimes it helps to have three sides of the tank covered, if not all four for a couple days.

if you have concerns about her being dehydrated i would take the dry food out of her cage for now and work on getting her to eat greens. somethings to try are fresh peas (or the frozen ones that say no salt) or fresh soy beans, bee pollen, which you can get in vitamin stores, usually can entice them to eat and of course if you can get pesticide/fertilzer free flowers i am sure she would love those too. i have found my malis prefer bok choy to every other leafy green out there

helga was skinny when i got her, here are some before and afters, well i guess afters and befores because i don't know how to switch the order of the pics!

-----
vonnie
***The scientific theory I like best is that the rings of Saturn are composed entirely of lost airline luggage.
— Mark Russell***

ymerejsregor Feb 08, 2006 09:57 PM

Try bee pollen. I have read or heard (can't quote the source) that it is an appetite stimulant in uromastyx. I can't necessarily vouch for it firsthand since Bruce has been a pig from day one, but I do know that it is a great treat for him. As far as greens, all I can do is suggest some of Bruce's favorites: parsley, endive, and turnip. He'll gladly gobble those down. Even though it's not a leafy green, he also likes snap peas. You might try those. Hope that helps!

JR

pgross8245 Feb 09, 2006 08:53 AM

Off topic, but your picture is awesome Bruce! You must have a great camera. Thanks for sharing.

Pam
-----
2.3 varanus acanthurus brachyurus (Dorado, Oro, Dora, Freckles & Amarillo)
1.1 varanus acanthurus acanthurus (Tabasco & Sprite)
1.1 u. macfadyeni (Amani & Abeba) RIP Ayana
1.2 u. ornata (Husani, Zari, & Bintu)
1.1 u. ocellata (Zuhri & Ashai)
0.1.2 u. a. aegypticus (Zahra Urbi, Halima & Sagira)
0.1 u. geyri (Solar)
1.1 hyla chrysoscelis (Pudge & Squirt)

Herps Are Awesome!

ymerejsregor Feb 09, 2006 09:02 AM

Thanks for the compliments on the pics. Several people have commented on the pics. My cameras really are not the newest or greatest, but they work. I use an Pentax Optio WP for most of the pics because it's small, easy to maneuver around obstacles in the tank, plus it's sandproof (as well as waterproof), which is a great benefit in his environment. If he's in a position I can use it, I use a Canon Powershot G5 with a macro and a .45X wide angle lens.

Thanks again!

JR

Jimbo Feb 09, 2006 01:18 AM

Definately looks really thin. Follow stricter then normal acclimation suggestions. Also, if he's really lithargic, I'd get him to the vet to see if somehting can be given to him for appetite stimulation. You can also force feed him yourself to get his appetite and weight up. Here's some info:

Acclimating and Introducing Uros

Acclimating a new uromastyx is a vital part of helping to ensure that it gets to, or maintains it's healthy status. Incase you're not sure what acclimating is, it's helping to ease the transition of the uro going from one environment to another. This typically is addressed when a new uro comes to your home from either the wild, a breeder, or a pet store. During this period of acclimation (anywhere from one to six months), the uro should be in the most stress free environment as possible. This not only comes from the enclosure and surroundings stand point, but also as to how you treat it.

Things that help with acclimation include, but not limited to:

* Placing the enclosure in a low traffic area of the house
* covering three sides of the all glass tank so that the uro only sees out the front
* When possible, get an enclosure that opens in the front rather than entrance from the top
* Have multiple satisfactory hides to provide as much stress free area as possible
* With multiple hides, have them in different temperature areas
* Change out and feed the uros after they've retired for the day
* Do not handle the uros unless it's absolutely necessary
* Look for eating regularly and gaining weight as good signs of acclimation

There may be other things that you find that work, but you can see the goal here.

Depending on the source form which you got the uro, a vet visit wouldn't be a bad idea to have it checked out for any health issues that you may not be aware of. Be sure to do at least the minimal research on the vet before going in. Usually they will tell you if they're not familiar with uros and maybe tell you of a local herp vet that is.

Needless syringe feeding

When Rocky appeared to "come down with something," I'd just maxed out my credit card trying to save my female, so I was determined to do what I could on my own. He stopped eating, then, as he had in the past, he started to get lethargic, not moving around too much, and eyes closed most of the time. Last time this had happened, two big shots of fluids and a tube feeding turned things around. So I took it upon myself to head to the grocery store and get those baby food jars that read just like my uro's dinner list. The vet gave me a 6cc syringe without a needle (let's face it, I wanted to help, not make things worse), and I also picked up some pedialyte at the store. Twice a day to start, I'd take take a shot glass, not that I had any, and go 50% pedialyte and 50% baby food. Stir it up and place it in a water glass of the hottest tap water I could get. Once it warmed up, took him out and have everything ready to feed. Then, with a full syringe (6cc for a then 88 gram geyri) I'd work it in between his "lips" by the hinge of his mouth. Once he'd get a taste, he'd start "lickin' his chops" and that's when I'd put the whole tip of the syringe in his mouth, and start feeding it in. I found it easier if I held him at a 45 degree angle, as he would start to open his throat area, and the whole contents of the syringe would go in. I don't really think he'd swallow it until later, but as long as it wasn't coming back out, I was ok with it. He didn't stress or dislike it too much, as after, I could set him down on the couch, and he'd stroll around instead of running.
I did this twice a day for about 1-2 weeks, then I would start to wean him down to once a day (twice a day here and there if I thought he'd take it in). Also, I'd start going with a bit more food and less pedialyte. Eventually, in about 3-4 weeks, it was very noticeable that his energy, weight, and appetite came back. I now keep all the necessary stuff here incase I need it again.
This is just a thought and not saying that this will help, but I can't see why it would hurt. Rocky's now plump enough that he looks like he's "puffed" up in defense (little fatso). The heaviest he's been before this, was 118gm, and as of mid May, he weighed in at 154 gm!

(Note: The feeding with a needless syringe was done with Rocky because, for reasons unknown, he stopped eating, which caused his metabolism and energy to drop, cause dehydration, which in turn caused him to feel bad, therefore not to eat, and it spiraled down until he was outright lethargic. Only then did I resort to the baby food/pedialyte through the syringe.) I plan on video taping the feeding that I've done so people can put a "visual" to the attempted explanation.
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2.1 - Rocky, Runako, and RoxyIII (my care sheets)

purduecg Feb 09, 2006 10:08 AM

Vet Vet Vet Vet Vet.

Ok, I feel better now. Everyone has had good advice, its just when I see a Uro that is that thin, and already lethargic... well, I feel the need to do the "Vet Dance"

Pretty coloring though! I wish you all the best of luck with your new friend!

Elizabeth
-----
1.0 Mali Uro Archimedes (May he rest in peace)
0.0.1 Egyptian Uro Zuberi Mosca Khu (Mosca)
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine (RIP)
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

jeune18 Feb 09, 2006 10:52 AM

lol, elizabeth, is mosca wearing off on you
-----
vonnie
***The scientific theory I like best is that the rings of Saturn are composed entirely of lost airline luggage.
— Mark Russell***

purduecg Feb 10, 2006 08:46 AM

Yup! I think he is! lol.

I picked him up the other day, and realized just how much he HAD grown. Even with both hands he was hard to quiet... I really hope he grows out of this soon!

Elizabeth
-----
1.0 Mali Uro Archimedes (May he rest in peace)
0.0.1 Egyptian Uro Zuberi Mosca Khu (Mosca)
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine (RIP)
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

kellywood23 Feb 09, 2006 05:33 PM

Thank you everyone for your information. As soon as I can get a fresh fecal, I am going to the vet.

I have not handled her except to soak her and take those pictures. The rest of them time, she is in the guest bedroom alone.

I have had mali's in the past and have never had this problem so that is why I asked.

I will keep you all informed on how she does.

Thanks again
-----
Kelly Wood

1.1 Cherry Head Redfoots
0.1.1 Brazillian Redfoots
1.1 Leopard tortoises
1.3 bloodred Bearded Dragons
0.1 collared lizard
0.3 Dogs
1.3 Parakeets

Arredondo Feb 09, 2006 06:43 PM

I'm not as cavalier as some of your responses. Your lizard looks in very bad shape. The tail base is constricted & dehydration is obvious. The image is that of a very tired & wasted animal. It needs immediate attention, primarily rehydration, today.

kellywood23 Feb 09, 2006 08:39 PM

I atually force fed him some babyfood and pedialyte today and will continue that until I can get to the vet.

Thank you for the straight forward approach though. I like it!

>>I'm not as cavalier as some of your responses. Your lizard looks in very bad shape. The tail base is constricted & dehydration is obvious. The image is that of a very tired & wasted animal. It needs immediate attention, primarily rehydration, today.
-----
Kelly Wood

1.1 Cherry Head Redfoots
0.1.1 Brazillian Redfoots
1.1 Leopard tortoises
1.3 bloodred Bearded Dragons
0.1 collared lizard
0.3 Dogs
1.3 Parakeets

Arredondo Feb 10, 2006 07:26 PM

Excellent! Sounds like he's in good hands.

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