Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Do you prefer using a rack system with or without lids and why?
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>>Do you prefer using a rack system with or without lids and why?

Without Lids;

1)Don't have to remove the entire tub to axcess the contents.

2)Empty tubs stack nice lids create an entirely different pile, space is a commodity.

3)Lids can create a problem getting a quick snake back in the tub, without lids in a rack you can axcess as much or as little of the tub you want.

4)Lids add more height to the rack, even an 1" can cause the removal of entire row. My snake room as a specific 80" rack limit or cage. Some may not have such aconfined space but I was not so lucky.

5)Without the lid the small gap at the top allows for air flow, with a lid one would have to drill or melt small holes. (Some perfer to drill holes in both I don't)

Thats all I can think of right now, hope this helps you debate.
Jeremy

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OK, I have not build 1 herp rack yet. But I have 100's of pics for reference. Someone made a rack with no lids, but the top shelf had 1/2 screen to view the critters.

I want to make a rack for my upcoming hognose collection as I should have at least 8 females up to breed next year.

Sorry I do not have the size tubs I use. I get them at walmart, about 5" tall, 16" wide and 30"s long. I use lids now, as they are on a wire rack shelf.

My idea id to add a plastic hinge in the lid. I can pull the cage 1/2 out and lift and look inside, or even add screen to just look. I can also pull a cage and not have to worry about a snake come flying out. I have 2 large females that are INSANE. 1 actually seems to constrict and do a croc death roll. I've been nailed by her at least 10 times. No ill effects.

But I think it is a nice combo with the best of both features. A covered lid if that's what I need, or a slide out and peek, and change or check water etc..
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tom

www.herpzilla.com

Check out www.cheapcages.com

The are working on a "rack" system that is actually slide-out, low-height cages with hinged lids. You get the spacing of a rack with the security and functionality of cages.

I prefer lidded racks but thats because 90% of the tubs I use are the hinged underbed 39"ers with wheels. I like the lid because I can make the rack out of basically scrap material and it will work perfectly.
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Randall L Turner Jr.
Boas make the world go round.

Each type has advantages and disadvantages as mentioned in the other replies.
When I first started in this hobby back in '94 I built my first rack. I used sterilite tubs with the lids. Most but not all of the tubs had holes drilled in the sides, not the front. The hot air that vents out of these holes goes into the shelf area. This helps to heat the air around the boxes. I found that I could run the flexwatt slightly lower and still maintain good temps. It seemed to be more efficient. I wanted to work with a variety of species, kings, milks, hognose, pits, rosy boas, etc. They have different temperature and humidity requirements. I could turn up the heat and then slide some of the boxes forward so they were actually sticking out of the rack a couple of inches. Those that needed higher temps were all the way in the shelf, over the tape, and those that needed lower temps were only partially on the tape. You can't do that with a lidless rack. Maintaining higher humidity is easier with the lids on. Less problems with sheds. I was also able to incubate eggs in a couple of boxes and not worry about something hatching out and crawling out of the box while I was at work.
I would suggest that if you use a rack with lids, get enough boxes to change out the rack 2-3X. Less loss of heat, higher humidity, mixed with urates and feces can get stinky real quick. I had enough boxes to change out the rack 3X.
I no longer use that rack but while I wanted to learn and get experience with as many species as possible, it was useful. I now use AP racks, sterilite boxes, no lids. 90% of my collection is balls. I keep a few boxes with holes drilled in them for the other species that require lower temps, lower humidity. I also keep them on the bottom shelf, no heat from a lower shelf this way. This setup is working fine so far.

Thanks for the responses, I got some good information to help me make a decision.
Kirk
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1.1 Jungle Carpet Python (both gorgeous)
1.1 Ball Python (normals, he said proudly)
3.3 hatchling ball pythons (normals)
1.1 Ball Python (het for albino)(gonna make my own albino)
1.1 Corn Snake (Okeetee, Sunglow x Snow)
0.1 Gray band Kingsnake (Blairs)
1.1 Desert Kingsnake
1.1 Pueblan Milksnake (normal)(Apricot)
1.1 Andean Milksnake (Inca phase) (het)
1.0 Bullsnake (normal)(my garbage disposal snake)
1.1 Bullsnake (red bull) and (het red bull)
0.1 Black Pine Snake need '05 mate!
1.1 Southern Snow Pine (snow)(red phase snow)
1.1 Mexican Pine snake
1.2 Checkered garter snakes (albino pair & het female)
1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback (Hondo)
0.1 Spouse (WC)(hates the herps,and not real crazy about the dog)