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HELP!!!!! Lethargic Red Ear

ninjaturtles Feb 20, 2006 03:11 PM

HELP!!!!!!!!!

My red eared is lethargic, not interested in swimming only basking, not interested in food, and keeps his eyes closed most of the time. No swelling or abnormalities anywhere that I can see.

Care:

He's in a 55 gallon tank with a dock for basking and eating

He has a heat lamp

He has a uva/b lamp

Water temp is at a constant 86 fahrenheit

He has a water heater and thermometer to regulate and monitor water temp

I feed him floating water turtle pellets, minnows, and crickets (but he won't eat).

His pond mates are extremely healthy, active, curious, and hungry.

His pond is routinely supplemented with those solid turtle shaped pills for water condition as well as disease prevention.

What am I doing wrong?
What am I doing right?
What do I do?!
I'm open to as many suggestions and as much advise as possible.

Much Appreciation,

ninjaturtles

Replies (8)

ninjaturtles Feb 20, 2006 03:17 PM

OH YEAH!!

My lethargic red ear also has an Eheim 60 gallon aquarium filter for his water. He does appear to be a "he". His tail is long. I was told that that's how you can tell what their gender is. Correct me if I'm wrong. Always open to learning.

ninjaturtles

Linda G Feb 20, 2006 04:32 PM

First off, his water temp is way too high. Lower it to about
74-76 degrees and check the basking area to make sure it is
about 85-90 degrees. These guys must be able to thermoregulate.
I would do this first and give it a couple of days.

If his eyes are swollen shut there could be other problems
that an experienced vet should address.

Please give us an update in a couple of days.

Lind

ninjaturtles Feb 20, 2006 04:56 PM

Thanks Lind

I'll give it a try. However, if it's a temp problem, why do you think one turtle is affected by it and the other three are all fine?

Thanks Much

ninjaturtles

joeysgreen Feb 20, 2006 11:41 PM

I agree with Linda about the temps; perhaps it's just the weekest animal that suffers first. OR, it has another problem, and the temps, although not ideal, or not related. Time will tell.

I'm also thinking that this is a rather crowded enclosure. Depends on the size of the turtles, but I'd consider a 55gallon to be minimal for one slider.

If you havn't already, begin weight records for each of your turtles. If weight loss is a concern from anorexia, it's time for a vet visist despite all that has been said. You won't know unless you have a weight.

Let us know how it's going

Ian

Linda G Feb 21, 2006 08:31 AM

I didn't realize you had more than one turtle in a smaller
enclosure.

I would move the turtle to its own enclosure. Not only
because if it is sick it can infect the others but moreso
I feel the others are probably picking on him. I had this
same situation with my sliders when they were little. After
a while the turtle grew strong and then they were reunited
with no futher problems. Its like at school when a weaker
kid is picked on by bullies. They eventually kind of go to
their own little corner to avoid problems.

I would do this right away. Make sure his set-up is correct and lower the water temp. Large rubbermaid containers are great
for single turtles and very cheap.

Please keep us updated.
Linda

spycspider Feb 21, 2006 12:50 PM

Hi,

This question is addressed to Linda. I've had problems in the past with painted turtles and you also advised me to lower the water temperature to around mid 70s. I have never used a submersible heater for my turtles (I heat them with just incandescent basking lamps) until recently when I read a lot of articles suggesting that water temps should be raised to and maintained around 80 or so. So I'm thinking about buying a heater, but I am just curious to know your rationale for lower water temps. Also, this issue concerns my tank of baby turtles, not adults. Do babies need warmer water?

Thanks.

RFB Feb 21, 2006 03:12 PM

Painted turtles (at least midland, western and eastern) are very cold hardy animals. I have seen them active just after ice out on the lake where I live. Ice was still present around the fringes at this time. I kept a pair of Midland for approx 10 years time in a 120 gallon aquarium where the water was kept at room temperature(around 72 during the day, down to mid 60's at night)with no problems. Their basking spot was approx 85-90 and they had access to it 24/7. I believe that healthy animals, given the chance to effectively thermoregulate this way will have absolutely no problems. Sick animals are another question ad raising the temperatures may have a beneficiary effect. Hope that helps.

Linda G Feb 21, 2006 03:47 PM

I base my suggestions on 8 years of raising turtles and reading
everything I can get my hands on.

I have 2 adult painted turtles and acquired a hatchling southern
painted in October. I also own 2 RES. I have NEVER used
a water heater for them. These guys, especially painted, are
temperate turtles, not tropical. They in nature live within
a wide range of temperatures. Common sense tells me that
no where in the world is their water a constant 80 degrees.
There are a wide variety of temps so that they can thermoregulate
as needed. Why in captivity would it be wise to only give
them 2 temps to thermoregulate? Water and basking? All of
my adult turtles are kept outside in the summer and are brought
in only when the temps start dipping into the 50's consistantly.
I don't consider myself an expert but someone who has read
and researched many different types of reptiles and who has a
lot of common sense.I do want to add that I have NEVER had a sick turtle or one that refuses to eat. They are active and
healthy. My vet did say they are some of the nicest kept she
has seen.

As I said I don't mean to preach because we are here to learn. I learned alot when I was starting out by listening to others
that had "been there, done that" on this forum.

Linda

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