Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Well for the sake of time, along with a few other factors, but mainly time, we decided to buy our racks. We have snakes on the way and we need the room and we need it fairly quick, so we decided to not stress and throw something together that won't last. We got ahold of what we saw as our best choice for many reasons and got a price quote. Sounded reasonible to us, they were extreemly nice, and willing to help, so Natures Spirit Reptiles now has a new customer! Good things being they are local and we don't have to fuss with shipping, AND, there is an incubator in the deal too, so we're getting that out of the way as well! But thanks for all of your help, you guys are awesome! I would have never been able to decide on anything if it weren't for you guys.

So I have to ask for help one more time, hopefully after that I will be OK for a while and I can stop comming to bug you guys! LOL

OK, I am getting my first Boa, a BCI. The plan was since he isn't full grown yet, to use my (approx.) 4'x2'x2' aquarium as his quarentine. While he is using that, I can work on building him a full size custom enclosure. Here is where I need the reassurance. If you were going to build a cage for an adult BCI, how would YOU go about it? I am not sure on size, we do have limited space, but I don't want to be anything short of spoiling this guy, and I know he needs quite a bit of terrestrial room and some arboreal room also. So you guys being custom caging genious men, LOL, I figured you guys would know best!

What materials would you suggest?
Would you make it modular or single unit?
What size would be best (I know you guys are good at figuring out how to get max. size without waste)?
What type of sealant/paint (inside)?
Lynolium for the floor sound like a good plan?
What type of doors woould you go with? (I am slightly intimidated by sliding doors, but it seems the only logical option for a cage this size)

Anything else you want to ad, throw it right in there, I can use anything you guys have to say. Thanks for being such a big help, not only to me, but to everyone who needs it. You guys are incredible!
-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

I was bored, so I went to customcages and custom made thae cage I would want with all the options I wanted, but no hood or base or anything like that... came out to $1,189.10, not as bad as I had expected, but sure inspires me to build my own! LOL
-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

... so Natures Spirit Reptiles now has a new customer!

I thought you needed a large box rack? Doesn't NS only make sweaterbox racks?

Regarding the boa cage, a lot of this really depends on your goals. Since you already have a 120 gallon tank I'm assuming you want something quite a bit bigger? Really, it helps to know that before making suggestions.

What materials would you suggest?

It depends on 1) what size you want and 2) how important light-weight is to you.

The rest of the questions you listed make me think you're planning on wood so I'd say either hollow-core door blanks or Russian/Finnish birch plywood, the stuff that comes in 5'x5' sheets.

Would you make it modular or single unit?

Single, unless we're talking a really big cage.

What size would be best (I know you guys are good at figuring out how to get max. size without waste)?

You need to get us in the ballpark of what you're looking for first.

What type of sealant/paint (inside)?

Oh boy, this is a tough one. Depends on so many factors. Do you want a solid color or a clear coat?

Lynolium for the floor sound like a good plan?

Probably, but if you're thinking a solid color for the walls I might go ahead and steer you towards vinyl film for the walls and floor.

What type of doors woould you go with? (I am slightly intimidated by sliding doors, but it seems the only logical option for a cage this size)

I'm biased towards sliding doors, but you really need to build what you want and what you're comfortable with.

I thought you needed a large box rack? Doesn't NS only make sweaterbox racks?

They have a 41 quart (I believe the CB70, if not, quite similar dimentions) that I will be getting a few of, and I am getting a shoebox rack for the little guys and hopefully some babies come '07. I have heard nothing but good things about them and there products, expecially the incubator, which I was going to get from them anyway, so makes it quite easy.

Regarding the boa cage, a lot of this really depends on your goals. Since you already have a 120 gallon tank I'm assuming you want something quite a bit bigger? Really, it helps to know that before making suggestions.

I am not sure what the ideal size is for these guys since this will be my first, that's why I asked you guys. Judging by the adult size of these guys, assuming it is really male and stays within the general rules, I would say a little larger than the aquarium, but I don't want to take up my whole house. Maybe 6'x2'x2'? I would like it to be versatile so that if I need it someday for something else, I can use it.

It depends on 1) what size you want and 2) how important light-weight is to you.

Weight isn't too much of a factor, I don't plan on moving this much, although it WILL have to be moved, so hopefully it's not 500 pounds or something.

The rest of the questions you listed make me think you're planning on wood so I'd say either hollow-core door blanks or Russian/Finnish birch plywood, the stuff that comes in 5'x5' sheets.

I was not necessiarily planning on wood, just the only option I am aware of that I am capeable of working with, besides Malamine and I do NOT want to use that for this project AT ALL.

Oh boy, this is a tough one. Depends on so many factors. Do you want a solid color or a clear coat?

Pobably would rather solid. Preferr simple and easy though, so whatever is the safest/easiest.

if you're thinking a solid color for the walls I might go ahead and steer you towards vinyl film for the walls and floor.

How easy is this to find? How easy is it to apply? How much abuse can it take? Is it expencive?

I'm biased towards sliding doors, but you really need to build what you want and what you're comfortable with.

I think sliding doors are the only practical option, to swing a door up, down, or out would just take up SO much room that we don't have. I am just worried that with my dad's parkinsons getting worse and worse, we may not be able to get it just right and I don't want to deal with sliding doors that don't slide.
-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

I just checked and that NS rack is the 41 qt. Sterilite. that box has less floor area than the CB-70, which I thought was already too small for you.

I don't keep Boas anymore but most people seem to think a footprint of 4'x2' is sufficient. I know aquaria can be difficult to maintain, but you might consider modifying yours for your needs.

I would turn it on it's side and make a face frame for it complete with the door of your choice. I hate to see you rush into a cage project until you have more experience with the species in question. It sounds like this aquarium will be fine since it's 4x2x2 or thereabouts. I have found that the biggest hassle with aquaria is the top opening. That's easy to resolve. In fact you can just glue in a substrate dam and then glue the glass track to that and the top.

How easy is this [edit: vinyl film] to find? How easy is it to apply? How much abuse can it take? Is it expencive?

Well it should be easy to find. I'm sure a sign shop would sell you some, although I've never asked. It is VERY easy to apply, which is the appeal to me. Regarding the abuse it can take, Chondro keepers have been using Contact Paper in cages for years and it has held up fine. Vinyl film is MUCH more durable than contact paper, especially the junk that's available nowadays.

Mine cost about 26 cents per square foot. But since it comes in continuous rolls you waste very little compared to other materials. I don't know what a sign shop would charge you. If you call around tell them you need a basic 5 year calendared vinyl.

i have been reading the post so far ...

i keep boas and find that for males a 4'x2' cage seems to work well. i used to keep my large male in a 6'x2' but after moving him into a better 4'x2' he seems more active with daily movements all around the enclosure. females however, i feel that the extra 2' is valuable due to their body structure (they tend to not only be longer but thicker and well fatter).

i agree with chris as usual ... i would modify the current 4'x2' tank the way he advised. if later down the line you wanted to spoild him more you could always construct something larger. i have included some pictures of my male's cage (wasnt 100% finished in the pics). he is a smidge over 7' and has plenty of space although he is taken out for extended periods of time regularly.

>>I just checked and that NS rack is the 41 qt. Sterilite. that box has less floor area than the CB-70, which I thought was already too small for you.
>>
>>
>>I don't keep Boas anymore but most people seem to think a footprint of 4'x2' is sufficient. I know aquaria can be difficult to maintain, but you might consider modifying yours for your needs.
>>
>>I would turn it on it's side and make a face frame for it complete with the door of your choice. I hate to see you rush into a cage project until you have more experience with the species in question. It sounds like this aquarium will be fine since it's 4x2x2 or thereabouts. I have found that the biggest hassle with aquaria is the top opening. That's easy to resolve. In fact you can just glue in a substrate dam and then glue the glass track to that and the top.
>>
>>How easy is this [edit: vinyl film] to find? How easy is it to apply? How much abuse can it take? Is it expencive?
>>
>>Well it should be easy to find. I'm sure a sign shop would sell you some, although I've never asked. It is VERY easy to apply, which is the appeal to me. Regarding the abuse it can take, Chondro keepers have been using Contact Paper in cages for years and it has held up fine. Vinyl film is MUCH more durable than contact paper, especially the junk that's available nowadays.
>>
>>Mine cost about 26 cents per square foot. But since it comes in continuous rolls you waste very little compared to other materials. I don't know what a sign shop would charge you. If you call around tell them you need a basic 5 year calendared vinyl.
>>

Thanks Jay, I may just do that then, at least for now. I actually have a pic of your cage saved for refrence for when I was going to make a display cages for my BPs with fake rock (have too many BPs now to worry about all that). Although you're not one of the two people listed, I figured I would get input from others as well, that's great, I was mainly directing the thread towards those two because of the earlier conversations we had about rack systems. Thanks for replying! I don't feel so bad now knowing so many males do well in 4x2 cages. How do you feel about what hight they need? I have heard everything from they don't really need to climb to they need as much height as possible. I found my tape and checked, my aquarium is 48"x18"x20" so if the height is a big deal, I am not sure it's enough, expecially if I turn it like I wanted (and Chris suggested), then he would only have 18" (minus a couple for substrate) of height.

Also, do you happen to know the rule on checking for BCC or BCI? I know counting the saddles, but I don't know which is which. Thanks!
-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

glad to know i could be of some help.
as far as height, i find that younger animals will sometimes climb a bit if given the chance, but once they put on some weight they tend to stay on the ground. i do not really give my boas much climbing but i have to say that the ledges i use in my cages (like the one i posted) get used a great deal. my male is always putting his head on it or trying to fit on it, some way he is always touching the ledge. i would consentrate more on hiding spots for younger snakes than climbing. the most climbing my little girl does is on the top of her hids occasionally.
since you are using a class tank on its side you can use some sort of belly heat attached right to the glass. with the addition of a litter dam you are looking at roughly 15-14" opening. that is about the size of the opening on the cage i posted. i find this to be ideal as i can get my body in there if i need to for cleaning and it makes for a nice viewable area.
i would strongly suggest going with sliding doors even though you are unsure. even with your father's condition teh sliding doors should be much easier (to make if thats his job, and to use). just get the track, cut it to length, liquid nails it in and your half way there. the track i use comes from rockler and comes with directions to calculate the size of the doors. i just have them cut at a local glass shop and they pop in. i use locks on my doors and you could even use side pulls to make it easier to open.

lastly about the difference between BCC and BCI ...
there are many locals of BCC and BCI and there is no easy way to determine the local of an animal just by apprearance. if you post a picture i can tell you if its BCC or BCI but not deffinately where it is from if that is what your looking for. if you look at different pictures on the web you should be able to match your snake to a BCI or BCC. typically BCC will have less saddels (around 13) and BCI will have more (20ish).

>>Thanks Jay, I may just do that then, at least for now. I actually have a pic of your cage saved for refrence for when I was going to make a display cages for my BPs with fake rock (have too many BPs now to worry about all that). Although you're not one of the two people listed, I figured I would get input from others as well, that's great, I was mainly directing the thread towards those two because of the earlier conversations we had about rack systems. Thanks for replying! I don't feel so bad now knowing so many males do well in 4x2 cages. How do you feel about what hight they need? I have heard everything from they don't really need to climb to they need as much height as possible. I found my tape and checked, my aquarium is 48"x18"x20" so if the height is a big deal, I am not sure it's enough, expecially if I turn it like I wanted (and Chris suggested), then he would only have 18" (minus a couple for substrate) of height.
>>
>>Also, do you happen to know the rule on checking for BCC or BCI? I know counting the saddles, but I don't know which is which. Thanks!
>>-----
>> "Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain
>>
>>"It is better to be hated for what you are than loved for what you're not."
>>
>>"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."
>>
>> ~~ Krystal ~~

Thanks, I think I will do just that! Sounds like a good setup. Do you think throwing some Refeltix on the bottom (now back) would help keep in some of the heat? I will probably have this right in front of one of our old cruddy trailer windows, although I have them wrapped in plastic, it's still pretty drafty and I don't like having him right there unless I can do something to protect him from the cold.

typically BCC will have less saddels (around 13) and BCI will have more (20ish).

That's what I was looking for! I was 99% sure this was BCI anyway, and I was counting saddles, but since I was guessing at the vent and I coulden't remember the rule, I was just wanting to make sure. This is the guy I will be getting (in about 2 weeks). What do you think of him?

BCI? Either way, quite a looker!

-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

that should help to keep some of the heat in the tank. it might be a good idae to attach some to more sides if you still are having trouble keeping in heat after it has been set up for a while.

that is deffinately a BCI. but i might add with nice red in his tail, something not so common with BCI.
he should be happy when he is home.

>>Thanks, I think I will do just that! Sounds like a good setup. Do you think throwing some Refeltix on the bottom (now back) would help keep in some of the heat? I will probably have this right in front of one of our old cruddy trailer windows, although I have them wrapped in plastic, it's still pretty drafty and I don't like having him right there unless I can do something to protect him from the cold.
>>
>>typically BCC will have less saddels (around 13) and BCI will have more (20ish).
>>
>>That's what I was looking for! I was 99% sure this was BCI anyway, and I was counting saddles, but since I was guessing at the vent and I coulden't remember the rule, I was just wanting to make sure. This is the guy I will be getting (in about 2 weeks). What do you think of him?
>>
>>BCI? Either way, quite a looker!
>>
>>-----
>> "Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain
>>
>>"It is better to be hated for what you are than loved for what you're not."
>>
>>"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."
>>
>> ~~ Krystal ~~

Do you use tile grout and extruded polysterene? Or did you go with concrete, LOL

Cage looks great regardless!
Jeremy
-----
"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse

thank you very much. you got it right the first time, i used polysterene and covered it in tile grout. i have had the cage for about a year now and all is still well. i was pondering using concrete next time as the tile grout tends to rub off a little, but i am concerned about the weight. the construction of my cages right now is fairly close to how i would like it. they are strong enough to support alot of weight (i put my 42" tv ontop of one) and remain light enough that i could carry it by myself but due to the size it is easily carried by two people. ill probably be experimenting with the concrete weight difference on my next cage.

>>Do you use tile grout and extruded polysterene? Or did you go with concrete, LOL
>>
>>Cage looks great regardless!
>>Jeremy
>>-----
>>"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer
>>
>>1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
>>0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
>>1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
>>2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
>>0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
>>0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
>>1.0 Ball Python
>>1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
>>1.0 Green Iguana
>>1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
>>1.0 Pomeriaian
>>0.3 Catus Terribilis
>>0.1 Spouse

Well it looks good, the LOL was because I can't imagine makeing a small cage interior with concrete but let us know how it works. Did you stain the grout? Or use any paint over top for coloration?
-----
"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse

yeah, the size of space i will be working with is the other reason i originally figured grout to be best, but well see.
i didnt stain the grout, but i mixed up small batches at a time and used a combination of two different colors in random amounts to get variations in color. this was my thought of how to make it look a little nicer with the tight time constraints i had at the time of construction.

>>Well it looks good, the LOL was because I can't imagine makeing a small cage interior with concrete but let us know how it works. Did you stain the grout? Or use any paint over top for coloration?
>>-----
>>"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer
>>
>>1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
>>0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
>>1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
>>2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
>>0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
>>0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
>>1.0 Ball Python
>>1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
>>1.0 Green Iguana
>>1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
>>1.0 Pomeriaian
>>0.3 Catus Terribilis
>>0.1 Spouse

Works sucks really, but the more time away from the reptile room the more I spend in it. Kinda a trade off.

There is really nothing to add that Chris and Jay didn't cover but figured I throw in my opinion anyways.

>>They have a 41 quart (I believe the CB70, if not, quite similar dimentions)

I use a 41 qt rack for my yearling boas and find it works great. I move them to enclosures when they pass the 3.5' mark or around that mark I don't actually measure.

I also agree with Chris and Jay use what you have, convert the tank. Converted it will be great from quite awhile. Maybe when you have the need for more large enclosures than build them. Besides that leaves you plenty of time to practice which is always fun.

If and when you do decide to build your enclosures. I use 4'x2'x18" cages for all my snakes up to about 8'. Granted I don't recommend an 8' female in a 4' enclosure but my 6' enclosures aren't finished yet so she has to wait. But my males will probally live in them forever.

The 4 enclosures pictured are made of melamine which you seem to hate. They are stacked individual cages each is to heavy and ackward to move by myself (I do it but my back hurts later) but 2 people its real easy.

I use melamine for my enclosures because it's cheap flat and easy to work with. However my new cages are HC door cages and I am looking forward to getting them finished. Regardless I am planning on useing vinyl (Chris's idea) to re-sheet the insides for durability. The melamine I find holds up well so long as you clean up after every accident or defication. It takes work but they are my pets.

Chris is stuck on this Russian/Finnish birch plywood so I must try it! But his HC door recommendation is right on.

The last recommendation is for sliding doors but like Chris I am biased. The only benefit with drop down doors is a large Boa can hook it with their tail (really inconveiant)

So I hope that helped a little. I'm glad some of my advice is helpful thats why I think we are all here. Good luck and don't forget to post pics.

Jeremy

-----
"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse

i had some questions after seeing those pictures a few times ... i am really liking your design for your current rack. in the future when my boas are breeding age i will be constructing racks to house the babies. pretty much what i want to 'borrow' is the hollow shelf concept. what material did you use for the tops of the shelves and what are the other options. i dont think wood could be used so i need to decide what to use.

my other question is reguarding the stack of large boa cages. i am concerned about getting a larger boa out of a cage at face level. as of now i plan to stack two of my 2' tall cages and then put my baby racks ontop of them. i dont see a problem pulling a tub at face height but im just wondering if you ever have problems removing a large boa at face level.

thanks for your reply in advance.

>>
>>Works sucks really, but the more time away from the reptile room the more I spend in it. Kinda a trade off.
>>
>>There is really nothing to add that Chris and Jay didn't cover but figured I throw in my opinion anyways.
>>
>>>>They have a 41 quart (I believe the CB70, if not, quite similar dimentions)
>>
>>I use a 41 qt rack for my yearling boas and find it works great. I move them to enclosures when they pass the 3.5' mark or around that mark I don't actually measure.
>>
>>I also agree with Chris and Jay use what you have, convert the tank. Converted it will be great from quite awhile. Maybe when you have the need for more large enclosures than build them. Besides that leaves you plenty of time to practice which is always fun.
>>
>>If and when you do decide to build your enclosures. I use 4'x2'x18" cages for all my snakes up to about 8'. Granted I don't recommend an 8' female in a 4' enclosure but my 6' enclosures aren't finished yet so she has to wait. But my males will probally live in them forever.
>>
>>The 4 enclosures pictured are made of melamine which you seem to hate. They are stacked individual cages each is to heavy and ackward to move by myself (I do it but my back hurts later) but 2 people its real easy.
>>
>>I use melamine for my enclosures because it's cheap flat and easy to work with. However my new cages are HC door cages and I am looking forward to getting them finished. Regardless I am planning on useing vinyl (Chris's idea) to re-sheet the insides for durability. The melamine I find holds up well so long as you clean up after every accident or defication. It takes work but they are my pets.
>>
>>Chris is stuck on this Russian/Finnish birch plywood so I must try it! But his HC door recommendation is right on.
>>
>>The last recommendation is for sliding doors but like Chris I am biased. The only benefit with drop down doors is a large Boa can hook it with their tail (really inconveiant)
>>
>>So I hope that helped a little. I'm glad some of my advice is helpful thats why I think we are all here. Good luck and don't forget to post pics.
>>
>>Jeremy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>-----
>>"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer
>>
>>1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
>>0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
>>1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
>>2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
>>0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
>>0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
>>1.0 Ball Python
>>1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
>>1.0 Green Iguana
>>1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
>>1.0 Pomeriaian
>>0.3 Catus Terribilis
>>0.1 Spouse

First off it really isn't my idea persay the constant conversations between Chris and I off Thread caused be to adapt the HC Door idea, ironically he borrowed the idea origionally.

>>what material did you use for the tops of the shelves and what are the other options. i dont think wood could be used so i need to decide what to use.

Well I used wood. Each shelf is actually a frame of good ply. Laminated to the frame are two pieces of Tileboard. The ability to make it myself with heat installed in the shelf lead me to the design.

You could build the shelf with the same technique but use 3mm PVCX instead of the Tileboard. I actually havn't finished the rack yet so the heat panel is un tested. I will post when its complete on its successes and failures.

In regards to your other question. No I don't have a problem with getting boas out of an enclosure at face level. Certain snappy animals I keep in the cages around chest heigth. The smaller females I keep on top due to weight.

I use a hook for most animals to remove from the cage. For the larger Boids I use the hook to maintain the head and use leather Gloves to grab the snake. I only use the gloves cause I had a female grab my hand thinking it was a F/T rat. I also had a Burmese that was almost a double handler. Know I just use the gloves incase. I remove them after the snake is out unless its tempermental.

There is always the potential for a bite to the face at any level IMO, why waste valuable real estate.

Hope that helps.
Jeremy

-----
"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse

reguardless of who came up with it, it makes sense to me because i dont want to have to make groves for the flex watt. i didnt realize it was tileboard as that is what i imagined i would like to use. i am just looking to use a material i can get easily and cheaply. if the tile board works out for you i will be happy since that is something i am familiar working with. originally i was just not sure that flexwatt could be used directly attached to something like tileboard.
im excited about building it but i wont need it for a few years (unless i acquire an adult female sometime).
i think im going to stick with keeping upper space reserved for rack space. thanks again for the quick answers.

>>First off it really isn't my idea persay the constant conversations between Chris and I off Thread caused be to adapt the HC Door idea, ironically he borrowed the idea origionally.
>>
>>>>what material did you use for the tops of the shelves and what are the other options. i dont think wood could be used so i need to decide what to use.
>>
>>Well I used wood. Each shelf is actually a frame of good ply. Laminated to the frame are two pieces of Tileboard. The ability to make it myself with heat installed in the shelf lead me to the design.
>>
>>You could build the shelf with the same technique but use 3mm PVCX instead of the Tileboard. I actually havn't finished the rack yet so the heat panel is un tested. I will post when its complete on its successes and failures.
>>
>>In regards to your other question. No I don't have a problem with getting boas out of an enclosure at face level. Certain snappy animals I keep in the cages around chest heigth. The smaller females I keep on top due to weight.
>>
>>I use a hook for most animals to remove from the cage. For the larger Boids I use the hook to maintain the head and use leather Gloves to grab the snake. I only use the gloves cause I had a female grab my hand thinking it was a F/T rat. I also had a Burmese that was almost a double handler. Know I just use the gloves incase. I remove them after the snake is out unless its tempermental.
>>
>>There is always the potential for a bite to the face at any level IMO, why waste valuable real estate.
>>
>>Hope that helps.
>>Jeremy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>-----
>>"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer
>>
>>1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
>>0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
>>1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
>>2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
>>0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
>>0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
>>1.0 Ball Python
>>1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
>>1.0 Green Iguana
>>1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
>>1.0 Pomeriaian
>>0.3 Catus Terribilis
>>0.1 Spouse

I have other cages that use flexwatt behind tileboard and find it heats fine. But I will let you know how this project pans out. There is a lot of labor involved and time, let you know that now.
Jeremy
-----
"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse

as long as i know the heat will work through the tileboard i am good to go. time and labor are nto a big deal to me as i am already eager to get started two years early. thanks again.

>>I have other cages that use flexwatt behind tileboard and find it heats fine. But I will let you know how this project pans out. There is a lot of labor involved and time, let you know that now.
>>Jeremy
>>-----
>>"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer
>>
>>1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
>>0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
>>1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
>>2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
>>0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
>>0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
>>1.0 Ball Python
>>1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
>>1.0 Green Iguana
>>1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
>>1.0 Pomeriaian
>>0.3 Catus Terribilis
>>0.1 Spouse

I use a 41 qt rack for my yearling boas and find it works great. I move them to enclosures when they pass the 3.5' mark or around that mark I don't actually measure.

Right now we only have Ball Pythons and a couple tag alongs (cali king, the upcomming boa, and I might take in a corn)

I think converting the tank is the way to go, at least for now, so definitly.

The 4 enclosures pictured are made of melamine which you seem to hate.

Not necessarily hate, just prefer not to work with. LOL

I use melamine for my enclosures because it's cheap flat and easy to work with. However my new cages are HC door cages and I am looking forward to getting them finished.

I might look into the HC Door Idea when I need bigger cages. Mostly concentrated on BPs for now, so not too big of a cage is needed quite yet. This boa is an adoptee from someone who doesn't have the time for him anymore, I am taking her BP too. They're just her pets.

The last recommendation is for sliding doors but like Chris I am biased. The only benefit with drop down doors is a large Boa can hook it with their tail (really inconveiant)

Yeah, it seems I will have to deal with my fear of not getting the tracks aligned perfectly (I have OCD too, that helps! LOL) Sliding is really the only way to go with larger caging, we don't have the room around her to be swinging doors around. LOL

You and Chris are the best, to come home from a hard day only to work more then still come here and read long posts and take your time to answer with detail, that just shows what awesome people you and Chris are.
-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

>>Right now we only have Ball Pythons

Most people keep full grown Balls 41qt racks so I think it will be great. Although some females get a little to big for the 41qt.

>>Not necessarily hate, just prefer not to work with. LOL

Your're right "Hate" is a strong word!

>>Yeah, it seems I will have to deal with my fear of not getting the tracks aligned perfectly (I have OCD too, that helps! LOL)

Beieve me they don't have to be perfect!

>>You and Chris are the best, to come home from a hard day only to work more then still come here and read long posts and take your time to answer with detail, that just shows what awesome people you and Chris are.

Thanks! My hobby is the Reptiles and enclosures house the reptiles so building cages has become my favorite "sub" hobby. In all my processes and conversations with Chris I have learned a lot. I think it is only fair to share that wealth of knowledge, even if it be after a 12hr day in the blowing cold that is North Dakota!. Sometimes saying it helps me hear it again and re-apply it on my own successes. Thanks again for the comments, I'm just glad what I say helps!

Jeremy
-----
"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow Red Tailed Boas -Coming Soon-
0.1 Albino Red Tailed Boa -Coming Soon-
1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse

Most people keep full grown Balls 41qt racks so I think it will be great. Although some females get a little to big for the 41qt.

Yeah, I am keeping the aquariums though, so I will have an emergency home for any big girls and I do plan on making a bigger rack with maybe the CB-110 tubs or something similar, maybe even stackable cages, but that'll come later. Right now we only have a few yearling-sub adults, one nice 4' male, and a unknown that's a little over 4', but just comming out of a starvation of more than 6 months (previous owners, she was a MESS and you could not only feel nothing but ribs, you could SEE them) She/he has been with us for about 5 months now and she/he is just now looking healthy, but still thin, that's changing quickly though, she/he definitly didn't fast him/herself, she/he eats like a garbage disposal! LOL

Your're right "Hate" is a strong word!

LOL I think it's simply because of lack of choices, I like to paint/stain/seal myself, so this is basically just too boring for me I guess LOL. Not to mention heavy and getting the edges right...
-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

Chris is stuck on this Russian/Finnish birch plywood so I must try it! But his HC door recommendation is right on.

The Russian birch is nice if you need something slightly bigger than the typical 4'x2' cage. Even at $29 per sheet you can build a 5'x30" cage cheaper than you can out of 4x8 stock of similar quality plywood.

But I am quite fond of hollow-core doors for a variety of herp tasks.

HC doors would be a great way to build a 7.5' long boa cage, that's for sure.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Okay, I think I read through the entire thread. It looks like Bighurt and JayF have things pretty well covered.

I just remembered that I advised a couple of people on cage building who were able to walk into local sign shops and buy moderate quantities of vinyl film. If you forsee using a lot of it then it might be worth dropping $100 and getting a 50 yard roll.

Also, even with the dimensions you listed for the tank, I would still consider converting it into a cage for your boa. At least until you get a better idea of your wants and needs. But to make your life easier, convert it into a front opening tank.

You'll only need a scrap piece of MDF or melamine a few inches tall for a substrate dam. Then just glue the glass track in and have the glass cut. It's very easy, especially for something like this where you have a tank that is already straight and square.

I do like the idea of covering it with reflectix. I would wrap the entire thing, minus the front with it.

Given your money situation and that you just dropped even more on some new racks I think this is the way to go.

We're on the same page now, definitly converting the aquarium and I'm going to try to get enough reflectix to cover it all, but definitly the back and bottom. My queastion is how can I attach the front temporarily so that I can turn this back into a normal aquarium later on? (Fish are another hobby of mine)
-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

I think you'll be able to remove the glass track and substrate dam with a little coaxing and a sharp razor blade.

I would cover the back of the substrate dam with something to make it more water resistant. Paint it, vinyl film, scrap plastic, almost anything. It's just a temporary conversion so don't go crazy.