Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I was candling to see if there was anymore vein growth and saw movement in two of the eggs that are the most easily accessible! Is this normal for day 19? This is so exciting! I just wanted to share. And I was also wondering how often should/can you candle the eggs? I just don't want to be excessive! Here is a pic of them once again (if anyone wants to clue me in on the calcium spots, why they're there, if they're problematic, etc.) Thanks for any info!
Mo

Ball Python eggs should NOT be caving in at Day 19. Day 40, yes, but not Day 19.

You can candle them 10 times a day if you'd like, with no effects.

I've seen movement as early as Day 16. Remember, Ball Python eggs are around 60 days old when they are LAID, so they are already highly developed.

They should be solid like this:

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How do you recommend I go about adding moisture?
I've read/heard from websites and people: putting shallow containers filled w/ water in the incubator, slightly damp paper towel over the eggs or directly misting the vermiculite? Which one is the best? The areas "caving in" are where the calcium is lacking. I automatically thought that they couldn't stretch anymore to plump up because of the cinching(sp)in those areas. I had posted a message a couple days ago and gotten no response. This is my first time doing all this and the eggs were a surprise so forgive me if I'm inept.
Thank you for the info,
m

The calcium spots (or rather the opposite: the spots with NO calcium/egg shell) have nothing to do with caving in. They can handle the turgidity, no probs. Don't worry about that. Three of these eggs have such spots and they are as turgid as can be (but not too turgid):

Same with this clutch:

To add moisture will depend entirely upon your incubator. If you have just vermiculite in it, then it could be as simple as adding water to the subtrate. I never tried the damp paper towel-thing so I can't comment on it. My incubator is set up so that I don't have any subtrate, but 100% humidity. This way, I don't fool around with water or vermiculite or imploded eggs etc etc.

But if I was you, I'd add a small amount of water (and I DO mean SMALL) to the vermiculite. Check it in a day or so (36 hours) and see if the eggs have plumped up.

Picture of "no subtrate" in action:

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>>The calcium spots (or rather the opposite: the spots with NO calcium/egg shell) have nothing to do with caving in. They can handle the turgidity, no probs. Don't worry about that. Three of these eggs have such spots and they are as turgid as can be (but not too turgid):
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>>Same with this clutch:
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>>To add moisture will depend entirely upon your incubator. If you have just vermiculite in it, then it could be as simple as adding water to the subtrate. I never tried the damp paper towel-thing so I can't comment on it. My incubator is set up so that I don't have any subtrate, but 100% humidity. This way, I don't fool around with water or vermiculite or imploded eggs etc etc.
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>>But if I was you, I'd add a small amount of water (and I DO mean SMALL) to the vermiculite. Check it in a day or so (36 hours) and see if the eggs have plumped up.
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>>Picture of "no subtrate" in action:
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Wow. Jeff you are the man. When I first started BP, I didn't really intend to breed. However, as I have gotten more into take care of my BP's--esp. after seeing those beautiful eggs, I am starting to want to breed my BP's.

My BP's should be about ready next year. I have to start feeding on a very regular schedule, if I am to make it next year. Actually, probably best to wait two years.

Great pic of beautiful eggs!

cheers.
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Longtang. I like snakes and rats.

I'm sure you'll be successful. Its not hard. The hardest part is being patient and being consistant. If you're female is approaching 1500g and has good weight, then cycle them and go for it man!!! You'll never look back!!

I expect to be reading your posts next May 2004 about you showing off your big clutch and asking tons of incubator questions!!

Cheers!

Jeff F.
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Hi Jeff,
I was just wondering what kind of success you've had with the no-substrate method?
How do you do it?

Looks like egg crate on top of moistened perlite.....correct?

I am very curious about this method.

Thanks!
Jen (who killed eggs last year with too much moisture)
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HerpCrazy Reptiles

100% hatch rate with fertile eggs everytime (multiple Python species and a few colubrids. Not so good with monitor eggs so far, ha ha!).

But seriously, it takes a great talent to kill a BP egg. They are bullet-proof. But too much water is one way. And that's why I just use egg-crate on top of water/perlite/vermiculite/paper towel/newspaper etc etc etc. It doesn't matter. I like to use perlite because its also a good insulator so it moderates any temp fluxes (which there isn't any anyways).

Its basically a box that holds water with an aquarium heater in it. Then I place a Rubbermaid (the egg box) on bricks above the water and calibrate the temps to 89F. Then I put a Helix on the system and set it to 90F so that it shuts it off completely after 90F. Piece of cake. No mucking around. 100% air humidity and dry/no substrate.

That is the basic idea. Obviously, incubating 100's of eggs a season is a little more elaborate, but that's the general idea.

Cheers!!

Jeff F.
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Hi Jeff,
I was just wondering what kind of success you've had with the no-substrate method?
How do you do it?

Looks like egg crate on top of moistened perlite.....correct?

I am very curious about this method.

Thanks!
Jen (who killed eggs last year with too much moisture)
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HerpCrazy Reptiles