Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I was feeding my little girl blood last night (which, by the way REFUSES to eat anything unless it's insider her tank. I've tried multiple times to feed her in a seperate container and she won't do it, but when I drop the same mouse inside her house, she immediately gets it. What should I do on this topic?)
Now, for the bigger problem. After she got done eating, she apparently wasn't able to re-align her lower jaw right, so now the right side of her bottom lip is slightly open. What can I do to fix this, it really has me freakin' out. It doesn't look like she's in pain, of course it's not like snakes can cry to let us know they're hurting. I dunno, I feel really bad for her though and any help or pointers from any of you would VERY greatly be appreciated. TIA.
Also, just to cover my own a s s, the mice was NOT too big for her. Same size I feed her everytime.
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1.0 Goini
0.1 Hypo. Floridana
0.1 Sumatran Blood Python

Two recommendations:

1. Don't feed in a separate container...stupid urban myth! Feed them in there enclosure where they feel comfortable. Try feeding an 18' retic in a separate container....doesn't make sense does it? Same applies to an 18" snake.

2. Sometimes they just don't get their jaw back in place right away. Leave them be. If you see this persist for longer than a couple days, check out a vet to be sure. Unless the animal is suffering from severe metabolic bone disorder, it should not have any problems realigning itself.

Good to here another enthusiast joining the ranks of "stubbie" lovers!

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GREAT looking snake, Rich!!! (Good advice too) YEOW!

Did that snake pictured breed for you this season?

Matt
p.s. - How about posting some more pics!

Thanks for the compliment. The babies last year were from her. She and the sire carry the "granite" gene or recessive marble gene. Here is a couple photos of the babies.

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i have read and heard from many experienced keepers that if you feed in the enclosure the snakes associate your hand going into the cage with feeding all the time.I am getting a retic and i realize i wont be able 2 feed in a seperate container but i dont want a retic coming after my hand every time i open the cage.

Use a long pair of tongs/hemostats to place the prey into the enclosure, and when you're not feeding make sure to wash your hands first so you don't smell like anything that could be considered food, and make sure the snake sees you coming before you just reach in and grab it/change the water bowl etc.

My snakes have INSANE feeding responses on feeding days, and will nail anything that comes into the cage, but that's because they can smell the rat before I even open the cage. When I don't have a rat with me I can reach right in and pick them up no problems, I've never been bitten.

I hear this often. Yes, if you only open the cage to feed your snake, it will associate this movement with feeding every time. This is basic conditioning. Now let me use this same conditioning for behavior modification.

Feed only at night using an inanimate object for introduction of the food either hemostats or tongs. I do this from hatch to infirmary (read old age...)

Also, I am a BIG advocate of understanding animal behavior. Certain movements toward or around a snake illicit certain basic behaviors. Most notable: movement towards the head of a snake will either initiate a feeding response or a defense response. This behavior can only be mildly modified when the animal is in the enclosure. If you want to handle or work with the animal, either use a snake hook to remove them from the enclosure or to position their head away from your area of cage maintenance.

After years of using various behavioral modification, I know with very good certainty whether I will get bit or not. Whether the snake will relax and allow interaction or not. Whether I need to have a new hobby or not....for now, not!

Silliness aside, when you remove an animal from its enclosure to feed what tells the snake you are only taking it out to play? The simple absence of food? That confuses them and as a result, they don't eat consistently. Most snakes are introvert eaters (ie ambush predators) versus an extrovert eater (lions on the prowl).

So support the introvert eating behavior by feeding in their enclosure at night using tongs and support the extrovert play/handling behavior by using a snake hook to retrieve them, gloves or after practice, removing them by grasping the lower half away from the head.

Hope that helps.
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================================
Support your local herp society
www.chicagoherp.org

Don't worry about it.After a good yawn she should go right back into shape.If in a few days it does not then a vet trip might be in order.Good Luck.
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Ashley Lopez's Black Forest Constrictors.
blackforestconstrictors@gmail.com
website

Alright, thanks a lot guys for the pointers. Hopefully she'll get it worked out on her own. It has gotten better today, it's still not all the way closed on that one side, but I guess it'll fix next time she yawns OR next time she eats, whichever. Thanks again.

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1.0 Goini
0.1 Hypo. Floridana
0.1 Sumatran Blood Python

never feed outside the primary cage. Not a good thing to get started, and a fair number won't feed in a separate unit anyway.

Kelly

whats so wrong with feeding her in her tank? lots of people do it, myself as well. theres nothing wrong with it. if youre worried about her swallowing some substrate then switch to a safer substrate. after all, would you rather she swallow some substrate or not eat at all?

as for the jaw, i dot know. usually my snakes jaws will go back within the hour if stuck. perhaps a soak in some warm (mid-high 80's-F) water would work if it is still stuck.
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1.1.0 Colombian Redtail Boas (normals)
2.1.0 Sumatran Blood Pythons (normals)
1.0 Black Blood Python (normal)
1.0 Dumeril's Boa (normal)
0.1 Coastal Carpet Python (normal)
0.1 Jungle Carpet Python (normal)
0.1 Surinam Redtail Boa (normal)

The only problem I have with feeding her in her house was strictly based off hearsay, which is that "if you feed all the time in the tank, they'll develop a bad feeding response towards the handler, thinking they're getting fed everytime the tank is opened, thus becoming aggressive. I guess it's not true though? I've fed her 3 times now in her tank and she's getting better and better everyday about being picked up. The first few days I had her, she'd strike when I tried to get her, now she's super chillin', so I guess it can't be true.

I know this is a stupid question, but I know a few breeds of pythons have heat-sensing pits on their lower lip(s). Do the blood pythons have these or any type of heat sensory?

By the way, her jaw looks fine now. Thanks again you guys.
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1.0 Goini
0.1 Hypo. Floridana
0.1 Sumatran Blood Python

im not sure about the heat sensory glands but i do know this. snakes use scent and heat sensory to know when food is being offered. it has nothing really to do with a tank lid being opened. only time ive seen what youre describing is when people get lazy and dont feed the snake(s) on a regular basis.
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1.1.0 Colombian Redtail Boas (normals)
2.1.0 Sumatran Blood Pythons (normals)
1.0 Black Blood Python (normal)
1.0 Dumeril's Boa (normal)
0.1 Coastal Carpet Python (normal)
0.1 Jungle Carpet Python (normal)
0.1 Surinam Redtail Boa (normal)

Right on, thanks for the reply.
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1.0 Goini
0.1 Hypo. Floridana
0.1 Sumatran Blood Python