I bought an uncage heater for my 40 gallon breader tank and the tempeture of the glass without substrate is 120 is that too hot? Will my snake burn on that? I have not put my Ball Python in it yet.
Thanks
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I bought an uncage heater for my 40 gallon breader tank and the tempeture of the glass without substrate is 120 is that too hot? Will my snake burn on that? I have not put my Ball Python in it yet.
Thanks
Yes - It is too hot - yess you will burn your snake. You need to put your UTH on a thermostat or rheostat.
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Tosha 
"Nihil facimus sed id bene facimus"

6.34.0 Ball Python (Harry and Fluffy and gang)
1.0.0 Angolan Python (Anakin Skywalker)
0.0.1 Green Tree Python (Verdi)
0.1.0 Bredls Python (Smurfette)
0.2.0 Feline (Pippen and Pandora)
0.0.1 Desert Tortoise (Pope John Paul aka JP )
2.2.1 Fish (1,2,3,4)
0.0.4 frogs rescued from pool skimmer
0.0.0 Lizards of unknown origin
How can you tell if your snake is being burned? No matter what the temp is, how do you tell? I have one that spends all her time on the heat mat and I know its not too hot, but she NEVER moves from that side. Wondering if she could get burned. it only gets 95ish on that side.
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Sign of the Serpent
I would guess if the snake has burn marks on it then it is burned. What is is a safe tempeture for an under cage heater? I want it to be hot enough to help keep the cage keep warm but not hurt him.
ok so what are burn marks? thats what I was asking-- what are the signs you have a burned snake on your hands
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Sign of the Serpent
Snakes don't have a lot of nerve endings on there belly and have a tendancy to sit on surfaces that are too hot or sit too long on warm surfaces both can result in burns.
Mild burns will appear as pink bellies and depending of the severity of the burn you can also see brown or black scales and blisters.
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Tosha 
"Nihil facimus sed id bene facimus"

6.34.0 Ball Python (Harry and Fluffy and gang)
1.0.0 Angolan Python (Anakin Skywalker)
0.0.1 Green Tree Python (Verdi)
0.1.0 Bredls Python (Smurfette)
0.2.0 Feline (Pippen and Pandora)
0.0.1 Desert Tortoise (Pope John Paul aka JP )
2.2.1 Fish (1,2,3,4)
0.0.4 frogs rescued from pool skimmer
0.0.0 Lizards of unknown origin
Yes! Do you know of what temperatures I should avoid? I am trying to set up a cage that looks good and I want to avoid any harm to my snake. I have heard ball pythons referred as living art and I am trying to go with that.
Strictly my opinion!! If all you have or its the main reason for having a python is art then paint a picture and give the snake up to a good home!! If you insist on keeping it then do your homework. Visit some web sites and learn as much as you possibly can about the species you are keeping. Breeder sites are a good place to start on top of buying a book or two! Im no expert on pythons as i just got my first a few days ago but it has been a long time coming and i have done A LOT of research on them. I got mine from a 16 year old kid that felt he just had to have one and now has lost interest in it. Short of getting burned by his UTH haveing indents on his eye caps from low humidity and getting fed live prey and having a scar on his nose probablly fromgetting bit from a mouse or from some other stupid incident is what happens when people get reptiles/animals because there pretty or they have a hair up there bums!
SOrry if this sounds rude but I get tired of hearing about animals being neglected or mistreated because someone thinks there pretty!
Mike
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Mike & Wendy 
2.0.0 Siberian husky, Jackrussel/schitzu
0.0.1 Ball Python
1.0.1 Leopard Gecko
0.0.4 Beta's
3.1.0 Future Herper's
He's posting this question because he's (maybe she's) taking the time to ensure that the cage will be heated properly and safely before getting the snake. He already has a heat gun and is monitoring temperatures. He's familiar with using dimmers to control temperatures. I'm not hearing anything that suggests that this person won't be giving this snake great care.
I did a great deal of reading before I bought my first ball python six months ago. I had researched snake ownership several times over the past fifteen years or so, and I was familiar with what the caresheets and several books said. However, there were still things that I couldn't understand until I started actually working with the cage and then with the animal.
I'm not trying to be rude to you, but I think you're inferring things incorrectly. I tried to learn a great deal before I brought my snake home, but I've asked worst questions than what this person has asked. I'd suggest that you review the data, premises, and attitude that led you to draw your conclusions.
Bill
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It's not how many snakes you have. It's how happy and healthy you can keep them.
I am trying to do my home work. I thought I was asking a very simple question that I could not find in my books. I have read every book that I could find and when I said “ball pythons are like living art” I was quoting from The Complete ball Python by Kevin McCurley, a very good book which you should get.
I just don’t believe we are thinking on the same level. You just got a snake that in your own words “seems to be in good health” but has a scar on his nose, indented eye caps, lived in poor humidity and probably a bit neglected. I have higher standards.
You say you have 0.0.4 beta’s, I hope they are not the fish because if they are and you can not tell their sex then I have really waited my time.
My appologies! When I first read the living art deal it souded to me more like i want to have a pretty tank to show my house guests and maybe if the temps are right it will stay alive.
I did not decide to get my ball because i looked at it and said it was in perfect health. I got it because i knew that I never have had one before could take care of it much better then it was being cared for just because i have been researching every possible detail that i could.
Once again i do appologize for my previous post to you. I see temp's as a easy, very basic detail that you could pick up from hundreds of different sites and books and then when i read the art comment is when it started to sound like another person getting into something they might not be able or were ready to take on.
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Mike & Wendy 
2.0.0 Siberian husky, Jackrussel/schitzu
0.0.1 Ball Python
1.0.1 Leopard Gecko
0.0.4 Beta's
3.1.0 Future Herper's
I do understand the not knowing or not having the hands on to deal with certain issues and thus the reason for wonderful forums like this! I know i will be posting my fair share here in the near future!
Yes i do know the sex on the beta's!! Minor detail i missed when setting up my signature! Kudos for useing that against me! 
Once again sorry for the misunderstanding and i hope you all do not outcast the new guy! lol Kinda frustrating when you see or think of such awesome animals not being properly taken care etc..
Thanks again all!
Mike
P.S. Dont hold my ranting against wendy please she is a much more patient and understanding person as women often are! lol

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Mike & Wendy 
2.0.0 Siberian husky, Jackrussel/schitzu
0.0.1 Ball Python
1.0.1 Leopard Gecko
0.0.4 Beta's
3.1.0 Future Herper's
I never said you got your snake because he was in perfect health. I was actually accurately quoting your words of “he seems to be in good health.”
I know proper cage temps are a very basic detail but that really was not what I was asking for. I was looking for surface temps that would burn a snake so that I could avoid them. I know people have pushed belly heat temps so that they can try and grow their snakes faster so the info should be out there. I am not trying to do that. I am hoping to make a dynamic cage that will have a variety of safe heat zones and be somewhat interesting for the ball. The sterile tub with newspaper, hide and a bowl just bothers me.
I am glad the betas were a typo.
Ok so now that we are all straight, wanna go have a beer? Ill introduce you to my sister who knows what could happen! lol
c'ya on the post's,
Mike
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Mike & Wendy 
2.0.0 Siberian husky, Jackrussel/schitzu
0.0.1 Ball Python
1.0.1 Leopard Gecko
4.0.0 Beta's
3.1.0 Future Herper's
I appreciate you trying to help. I do not have a burned snake, as I said before I have not even put him into the cage yet. I actually know a lot about reptiles, just need to know some more about Ball Pythons. I am setting up my cage, not a tub, and am checking surface temps with a temp gun. I want to know what is too hot of surface temp for a Ball Python.
For a glass tank I would shoot for a surface temperature at 90* or less.
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Tosha 
"Nihil facimus sed id bene facimus"

6.34.0 Ball Python (Harry and Fluffy and gang)
1.0.0 Angolan Python (Anakin Skywalker)
0.0.1 Green Tree Python (Verdi)
0.1.0 Bredls Python (Smurfette)
0.2.0 Feline (Pippen and Pandora)
0.0.1 Desert Tortoise (Pope John Paul aka JP )
2.2.1 Fish (1,2,3,4)
0.0.4 frogs rescued from pool skimmer
0.0.0 Lizards of unknown origin
Thanks, that was what I was looking for!
hey tosh, does this sound like a candidate for your thread from hell in the wir
Kinda turned into one didn't it? LOL
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Tosha 
"Nihil facimus sed id bene facimus"

6.34.0 Ball Python (Harry and Fluffy and gang)
1.0.0 Angolan Python (Anakin Skywalker)
0.0.1 Green Tree Python (Verdi)
0.1.0 Bredls Python (Smurfette)
0.2.0 Feline (Pippen and Pandora)
0.0.1 Desert Tortoise (Pope John Paul aka JP )
2.2.1 Fish (1,2,3,4)
0.0.4 frogs rescued from pool skimmer
0.0.0 Lizards of unknown origin
snakes are good at hideing injuries, you wouldnt tell it was burned until it was too late, and they wont move evin if they are being burnt
as for your heat issue, what is your room temp, those heaters are designed to raise the heat 20 degrees.
if you are that hot, either your mat is way too large, or your room temp may be a bit high
if you cant afford a thermostat,, switch to a smaller hear mat to regulate the heat, and check it again
More experienced keepers may disagree with my suggestion, and I won't contradict their opinions. However, I recently took another approach to this issue. I have two UTH pads under a glass tank, and I've had some problems getting the thermostat to give me the temperature that I want. To give myself an added measure of security, I taped newspaper (about five sheets thick) to the bottom of the aquarium so that there was no way that my python could get under the newspaper. The paper didn't cover the entire bottom, but it overlapped the UTH pads by at least a half inch in every direction. Then I put the regular newspaper over the taped paper and the rest of the floor. At worst, the temperature on the surface that my ball python could reach was about 98 degrees. As I tweaked the thermostat, this temperature dropped to about 92 which I consider optimum. Occasionally, it has dropped into the 80's and the cage has been a bit too cold. In any case, she hasn't burned herself on the cage floor. My other ball python has newspaper between her Repti-bark substrate and the glass of the aquarium floor. She's never shown a tendency to wallow down below the substrate, and the newspaper gives me an extra layer of protection. The thermostat is the primary protection.
Bill
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It's not how many snakes you have. It's how happy and healthy you can keep them.
Thats not an aweful idea but tape and snake just don't mix - LOL - I have a rule that nothing sticky goes into my snake cage - have had to peel snakes off of tape, thermometers, sticky velcro, etc. far too many times.
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Tosha 
"Nihil facimus sed id bene facimus"

6.34.0 Ball Python (Harry and Fluffy and gang)
1.0.0 Angolan Python (Anakin Skywalker)
0.0.1 Green Tree Python (Verdi)
0.1.0 Bredls Python (Smurfette)
0.2.0 Feline (Pippen and Pandora)
0.0.1 Desert Tortoise (Pope John Paul aka JP )
2.2.1 Fish (1,2,3,4)
0.0.4 frogs rescued from pool skimmer
0.0.0 Lizards of unknown origin
I'm not doubting, but I'm amazed that a ball python could get stuck to the tape at the bottom of an aquarium. I have a hard enough time getting the tape off of things, and I certainly have better fingernails than my snake has.
I'm not giving up on this idea, but I will look for another way to secure the paper in place. I like the thought of a more positive protection applied between snake and glass. If I must, I'll use Post-It paper to keep things where I want them. I know that a Post-It won't stay stuck on a snake.
I guess the good news is that neither of my ball pythons shows any tendency to go burrowing beneath the paper. If they have their hides, they don't go looking for the bottom of the cage.
Bill
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It's not how many snakes you have. It's how happy and healthy you can keep them.
What about this. Take a cardboard box and cut it to fit snuggly on that side of the cage. It would provide the protection you desire and I dont think they would be able to burrow under it without really trying.
ep
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Occupants not paying rent:
1.1. balls
1.1 corns
1 everglades rat
1 w. hognose
1 bearded dragon
2.1 cats
That's a good thought. My only concern is that the cardboard box would provide too much insulation. One alternative that springs to mind is to use the cardboard box to hold the five layers of newspaper in place. Either way, the cardboard pieces may provide another way of doing what I want to do.
Bill
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It's not how many snakes you have. It's how happy and healthy you can keep them.
Hey Bill - I didn't mean you needed to stress about the tape - it's just been my luck that if there is tape in the tub they'll find a way to get stuck to it.
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Tosha 
"Nihil facimus sed id bene facimus"

6.34.0 Ball Python (Harry and Fluffy and gang)
1.0.0 Angolan Python (Anakin Skywalker)
0.0.1 Green Tree Python (Verdi)
0.1.0 Bredls Python (Smurfette)
0.2.0 Feline (Pippen and Pandora)
0.0.1 Desert Tortoise (Pope John Paul aka JP )
2.2.1 Fish (1,2,3,4)
0.0.4 frogs rescued from pool skimmer
0.0.0 Lizards of unknown origin
if it is to cut the heat, try a piece of select plyood over your uth
personally all of mt enclosures have a piece of ceramic tile over the heater
I have never used a thermostat with any of my reptile cages. But I have used dimmers (I think running something at 80% or what ever is a lot easier than a device could flicker it on and off) with UTH and never had a problem with them… I also use news paper at the bottom of all my cages, makes clean up easy.
One of the best reasons NOT to use a dimmer is that when they break, they tend to run at full power and can fry your snakes. I haven't had this happen to me (I don't use a dimmer), but I have heard this from several sources.
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