Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I was just curious, can you freeze a fecal sample to be tested for parasites or does it need to be fresh? I froze it just to be safe and so I don't have to wait another week or so. Also an observation.... Snakes ingest more than I had thought in the wild. I don't know what it is that makes them more likely to impact in captivity but they sure swallow a lot in nature. I found 2 small twiggs and a small rock in the sample
-----
0.1 Snow Corn "Hope"
1.0 Ball Python "Wilson" (Castaway)
1. Orange Albino Black Ratsnake "Chunk" (Goonies)
.1 Orange Albino Black Ratsnake "Peaches"
0.0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake "Onyx"
0.0.1 Black Ratsnake "Molly"

As we say in Missouri, "I ain't goin back to Missouri!"

If I remember correctly freezing the sample is not good...if you must store it refridgerate it. I do floats on my own scope at home and the fresher the sample the easier it is to get a good float. Are you looking for someTHing in particular your suspicious of or just checking a new wild caught or pet shop snake? Tom Stevens
-----
TomsSnakes.com

W.C. animal. I am wanting to make sure she is parasite free. Also, is there a way to find out if she has ANYTHING that could be contageous? Thanks.
-----
0.1 Snow Corn "Hope"
1.0 Ball Python "Wilson" (Castaway)
1. Orange Albino Black Ratsnake "Chunk" (Goonies)
.1 Orange Albino Black Ratsnake "Peaches"
0.0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake "Onyx"
0.0.1 Black Ratsnake "Molly" (Flogging Molly)

As we say in Missouri, "I ain't goin back to Missouri!"

Chances are the snake will have parasites, what you want to see is if the snake is overwhelemed by them which will lead to sickness or if it is what you may consider a normal amount of gut flora. Many of the healthiest captives still have a trace of this and that, if your cage is kept extremely clean and fresh food and water are provided any snake should do just fine. I would keep the snake on newspaper and really get a good look at what is coming out of its tail end as that is an easy way to see if there's need for concern. A float would help too, as knowing what you are treating is something people who simply shotgun meds as a precaution never find out. If you do decide to treat the snake I would recommend really trying to get the liquid forms of the meds from a vet, as opposed to pastes and pills you have to dillute. As long as you do not mix up water bowls, or handle snakes after messing with the WC you should not spread any parasites....and do not move an uneaten mouse from cage to cage,....quarantine it, keep its cage spotless and make sure the cage and water bowl are not only cleaned but disinfected when needed. I like Chlorhexidine for that... Just don't panic if you get results from a float showing parasites, that does not mean you have to freak out and start treating like a madman....been there and done that. I have my own microscope and look at things from time to time, and that is even in my 100% captive born collection. Snakes defecate in water bowls sometimes and who knows if they drink it and you know they crawl in it, this is why being super clean is very effective in fighting accumulation of parasites....hope this helps Tom Stevens
-----
TomsSnakes.com

The snake is acting just fine. Should I worry that she is TOO calm? j/k. It acts just like my c.b. snakes. I will get a fecal and treat it for any parasites that show up just for the snakes health. She ate 1 mouse on Monday and 2 on Friday. She is fattening up quite well. I am worried that she may be gravid. I am hoping that she is but think it may be too early in the season. She just went through either her post brumation shed or her pre lay shed. I put in a lay box just in case. So I will tell you in about 2 weeks. I am not AS woried about parasite infection spreading to my c.b.'s as I am a deadly virus (have heard of something along those lines) Is there a way the vet can check for anything/everything? If she comes back clean do I still need to quarantine? Will lung flukes show up on a fecal? Thanks for all of your help Tom.
-----
0.1 Snow Corn "Hope"
1.0 Ball Python "Wilson" (Castaway)
1. Orange Albino Black Ratsnake "Chunk" (Goonies)
.1 Orange Albino Black Ratsnake "Peaches"
0.0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake "Onyx"
0.0.1 Black Ratsnake "Molly" (Flogging Molly)

As we say in Missouri, "I ain't goin back to Missouri!"

The Float will only see what is in its stomach/intestinal track. If you wanted to really see what was up you could do a cloacal smear but it probably costs more than a few captive born snakes. Seeing you are just concerned about a WC that does not seem logical. When I examine a snake I do a few things. Inspect the inside of its mouth, check for mucous around the nostrils and mouth too. Look for crust or ooze at the cloaca. Gently but firmly run your finger down the snakes belly from neck to tail to feel for anything solid. This may also clue you in if she is gravid or at least ovulating. The dead giveaway is its crap. Of course it will smell.....but if it smells outrageously bad that is a sign something may not be right. If its poop looks more like mucous or snot that is also a sign it may have something more serious than parasites like an infection. If you have a good vet, do not be surprised if he says they find some parasites and does not recommend treating them. Of course it is smart to be aware of these things but let me tell you this. I freaked out over pinworms...a very common parasite that is usually harmless. Later that year I got some Pythons, and the amount of pinworms I found in them[captive born too] was 20 times what I had seen in my colubrids. Their poop looks completely normal, the snakes are not at all problematic and they thrive.I never treated them, and never will unless they act sick. Parasites can freak you out, but there's so many variants of some of them that some or harder on a snake than others. If the WC is very calm, you may want to crank the heat as an expriment and see if it becomes fiesty. A REALLY hot spot on one corner of the cage could also help the snake by getting his metabolism going, he may crawl around after warming up or routinely dump some........you know what out the tail end. Just watch for consistency. Eating, drinking, pooping, excersizing. Being calm is great, but listless and unresponsive is bad and is cause for concern. Remember one important thing. In the wild snakes eat and drink things containing crillions of parasites and they survive just fine. It is bad husbandry by humans that makes the parasites harmful. Keepers should always want clean cages but with a new WC clean should mean spotless. If conditions are right my guess is the snakes strong immune system will deplete the parasites until a minimal amount is left....it will adapt to cleaner water and parasite free food and just let natures ability for them to survive thrive and will be fine. Good husbandry is the key but quarantine for several weeks if not months is always a good idea. Tom Stevens
-----
TomsSnakes.com

She is active. And sits out in the open on the heat pad often. But my c.b. do that too (yes there is a hide on the warm side) Her stool have the same general look to them as my c.b. and are not extremely smelly although they did smell a little chemically (may have just been the de-mite spray) When I probed her I did notice a little bit of "sandy" matter in the cloaca going towards her tail but assumed it was just debris from being outside all of her life. You may think I am over reacting to a w.c. snake but she is a pet and possibly a breeder so that is why. Thanks again for all of your help.
-----
0.1 Snow Corn "Hope"
1.0 Ball Python "Wilson" (Castaway)
1. Orange Albino Black Ratsnake "Chunk" (Goonies)
.1 Orange Albino Black Ratsnake "Peaches"
0.0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake "Onyx"
0.0.1 Black Ratsnake "Molly" (Flogging Molly)

As we say in Missouri, "I ain't goin back to Missouri!"