Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Well, I'm on a money-saving kick, so I've decided to build a few racks out of melamine.

I have a a few questions for those of you who have experience with melamine.

1. Should I seal the open edges? I have another melamine rack that I built a little over a year ago. The edges were left bare, and it has held up really well. I just don't know how it will hold up in the long run. Is there any significant advantage in sealing the edges to lock out moisture, or will they hold up long-term without being sealed.

2. If I should seal the edges, what should I use? I'm leaning toward some sort of latex paint (assuming sealing the edges is even necessary), but please let me know if you have any other ideas.

3. About how long should I expect a melamine rack to last (both with sealed edges and without, if it makes a difference)?

Thanks to all for your input!

David Roach

I built my first melamine racks about 12 or 13 years ago. I left the edges unsealed and they are still in use at a friend's place in Georgia. The racks were built and used in Nebraska. Later they were shipped via UPS to Florida. From there they have survived trips in the back of moving vans to Washington and now to Georgia, including some in-town moves in all of those locations. So it's not like the were built and have sat still the entire time.

Given these were built from a lower grade melamine I don't think you need to worry about longevity or sealing the edges. But if you do the iron-on edge tape works well as would latex paint you might have left over from another project.
-----
Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

Thanks Chris...That's good to hear. I didn't really want to mess with the extra work, but I also didn't want my racks to warp. That's good news...thanks for the response.

David Roach

Like Chris said, it's not really necessary, the rack will hold up fine, I'm planning on using the iron on edge banding for my rack. Just to make it look better.

Here's a pair I made for my hatchling closet, I used pre-edged shelving, I like the look of the finished edge.

This first pic shows both but one is turned around so you can see the difference between finished edge and raw cut edge. Not what the original pic was intended for....just a bonus

-----
Thanks,

Dave "Rainbows-R-Us"

0.1 Wife (WC)
0.2 kids (CBB)
2.7 Brazilian Rainbow Boa (adult breeders)
2.5 Brazilian Rainbow Boa (sub-adult from 2004)
4.8 Brazilian Rainbow Boa (sub-adult from 2005)
2.1 Hypomelanistic BRB
0.1 Het for Hypomelanistic BRB
0.1 BCI "Elvira" normal from 1989
1.0 BCI Albino / het-anery
0.1 BCI Hypo / het-albino
0.1 BCI Anery / het-albino
0.1 BCI Salmon (possible super)
1.0 BCI Albino het stripe
1.0 BCI Salmon
0.1 BCI Ghost
0.1 BCI Super salmon, possible jungle
1.0 BCI Salmon, possible jungle

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

Those original racks I mentioned were built from the bull-nosed melamine shelving available at Menards so the leading edge is already finished. Only the back edge of the shelves are exposed.

Still, this is about as low quality melamine as I've seen and it's still held up great.

I have also built racks where the front edge is exposed particle board and they have also held up fine, but I've not had them for 13 years.
-----
Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

Gotcha, I have one more question...if you have another spare second. Does it make much difference whether a rack is built from the 3/4 inch melamine or the 5/8? I'd like to use the thinner material to keep the weight down, but I don't want to sacrifice the structural integrity of the rack by doing so...Thanks!

David Roach

I have never used 5/8" melamine but tend to think it would be okay for sweaterbox racks where the boxes slide in lengthwise.

If the boxes slide in widthwise or you are using a longer box I'd prefer to use 3/4".

My favorite way to save weight is to use 1/2" plywood for the sides and leave the back open. Whether this is possible depends on how the rack is setup.

What species is this rack for and what sizes of box will the rack hold? I can give you some more specific tips at that point.
-----
Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

I'm actually building several sizes. I'm doing a hatchling rack with 13" x 7-1/2" x 4-1/4" h boxes, and I plan to have 3-4 boxes across (boxes inserted lengthwise) - haven't decided the exact number across yet.

I'm building another rack with 14-3/4" x 10-1/8" x 5-5/8" h boxes. I am planning two boxes across (inserted lengthwise).

Yet another rack will use a 27-1/8" x 16" x 6-1/4" h box. That one will have one box per level (box inserted lengthwise).

The last rack will use a 35-5/8" x 18-1/4" x 6-1/4" h box. That one will also have one box per level (box inserted lengthwise).

As far as the plywood, will it work to have open sides when using plywood? By that, I mean, do I have to have a piece that covers the entire side, or could I use a piece at each corner to save on weight? If that will work, what width of plywood would you recommend?

Thanks for all your help Chris...I really appreciate it!

-David

One thing to consider is to build one type of rack that holds all three sizes of box.

Assuming you don't already have the boxes, Sterilite makes a 12, 28, and 41 qt. series that are all the same height. TWH, a regular poster on this forum, has built racks where each level can hold a) one 41 qt. box, b) one 28 qt. box plus one 12 qt. box, or c) three 12 qt. boxes. Both the 28 and 41 qt. boxes would need to be inserted widthwise.

As far as the plywood, will it work to have open sides when using plywood? By that, I mean, do I have to have a piece that covers the entire side, or could I use a piece at each corner to save on weight? If that will work, what width of plywood would you recommend?

You'd be amazed at how little side support racks need. Here is a picture of a rack I threw together one night from scrap birch plywood.

Each shelf is 32" x 18" and I only have four vertical members, each at about 3 or 4 inches wide holding the thing up. I never suspected this rack to last long but the shelves stayed flat for over a year and even survived a 700 mile move in the back of a moving van.

Now I don't recommend a rack be built with this little support. Mine was only temporary and was built with what I had. If I had a bit more time and material available I would have supported each side with three vertical supports, each being at least 3" wide.

A rack like this is definately more difficult to build and keep square/straight during construction. And they don't hold heat as well but they are easily wrapped with Reflectix insulation.
-----
Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

Before I forget, I used birch plywood on the shelves of the previously pictures rack. One of the shelves was melamine.

Definately use melamine. I had the boxes sliding on hardboard runners so it was not an issue for me. But for a regular rack the boxes slide much better on melamine.
-----
Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

I have another question. By now, I'm sure you are regretting ever replying to this thread Anyway though, I noticed on a couple of your other comments the idea of using HC doors for a rack. I'm considering it to keep weight down. I have a couple of questions about it though. 1) Do HC door racks hold up as well as melamine racks? 2) What should I use to seal it. I guess I would need something that is water-proof, heat resistant (due to the heat tape in the back), and able to withstand the tubs being dragged across it. Do you have any suggestions? 3) For whatever I use to seal it, how long should I allow it to air before putting snakes in the rack? Thanks again for all your help!!

David

Ask all the questions you want. My job keeps me at home on the computer for at least a few hours per day so it's a welcome break.

My HC door rack is coming up on two years old and is still fine. It was another situation where I had to get a rack done quickly prior to a shipment coming in. Because of that I did not seal it with anything other than a layer of contact paper on the underside of each shelf.

I do believe that a HC door rack could last a very long time, but I don't have any data to say for sure.

I would seal the entire thing with water based polyurethane and then some vinyl film or extra polyurethane on the side that will be exposed to the snake. The WB poly would need to cure for a week or so. For extra durability you could have the boxes slide on 1/8" thick hardboard runners that could be easily and cheaply replace.

I think HC doors are a great material to build racks from. But they are best suited for larger boxes and larger racks. It would be a lot of work to cut down HC doors for a rack that is a single tub wide.

Mine is ideal in that I did not have to cut any of the doors. I just took four of them and screwed on some melamine sides that I had leftover. I also used some melamine for the a front and back brace.

But I'm also lucky that mine easily rolls in and out of my herp room. With a 36" box I would not be so lucky. I'd have to make the rack modular somehow.

-----
Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

By vinyl film, are you referring to the adhesive contact paper (the stuff usually used to line shelves and drawers)?

Sorry, I meant to clarify that. Vinyl film and contact paper are not the same thing, at least for the sake of this conversation.

By vinyl film I'm referring to the stuff used to make vinyl lettering on store fronts, gas station pumps, etc.

Unfortunately Contact Paper and other similar products have changed quite a bit in the last couple of years and don't work very well for reptile enclosures and racks. The film itself is cheaper and the adhesive is really poor.

You might be able to get vinyl film at a local sign shop. I ordered a roll and only paid 26 cents per square foot after shipping and everything. But I had to order quite a bit. You only need a basic calendered film rated for 5 years. The more expensive stuff is not anymore durable.
-----
Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

Hey Chris, I have another quick question for you. I've attached a picture of my latest brilliant idea I'll try to explain my logic on it. I took a 24"X15" piece that will be used for a shelf and cut an area out of the middle. The edges are 3" except for the back edge, which is 5" to allow for heat tape installation. My plan is to frame a piece of screen (the plastic kind that is supposedly resistant to dog scratches at the Home Depot) and install it into the opening. Then, I plan to put in some hardboard runners on the top for the tub above to slide on (your idea from earlier). My thought process was this: I thought this might increase air flow, and I also thought it might be a way to keep weight down. My questions are 1) Will this actually do anything for ventilation if the tub above is elevated about 1/4"? 2) Will this weaken the melamine and cause it to sag? I don't know if melamine is strong enough that it will resist sagging even with a hole cut out. 3) I'm figuring I should probably seal the edges with a polyurethane (also your suggestion from earlier) since they will be exposed to the inside of the cage through the screen. What do you think? Thanks for your thoughts, and please don't hesitate to tell me if you think I just ruined a piece of melamine for nothing

It would increase airflow, but increased airflow might not be a good thing, I scanned back through the thread and did not see what you are making this rack(s) for. If humidity is a factor like it is for my BRB's and to a lesser extent my Boas, increased airflow will lessen the humidity in the individual tubs.

Weight would be reduced but not sure by how much exactly. Your original panel is 360 square inches, the portion removed is 144 square inches. so the weight of the shelf is reduced by about 40%, BUT, you will be adding some weight back in with screen and frame and runners etc. Sounds like a lot of extra work to me for not a lot of return.
-----
Thanks,

Dave "Rainbows-R-Us"

0.1 Wife (WC)
0.2 kids (CBB)
2.7 Brazilian Rainbow Boa (adult breeders)
2.5 Brazilian Rainbow Boa (sub-adult from 2004)
4.8 Brazilian Rainbow Boa (sub-adult from 2005)
2.1 Hypomelanistic BRB
0.1 Het for Hypomelanistic BRB
0.1 BCI "Elvira" normal from 1989
1.0 BCI Albino / het-anery
0.1 BCI Hypo / het-albino
0.1 BCI Anery / het-albino
0.1 BCI Salmon (possible super)
1.0 BCI Albino het stripe
1.0 BCI Salmon
0.1 BCI Ghost
0.1 BCI Super salmon, possible jungle
1.0 BCI Salmon, possible jungle

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

That's true. Humidity might be an issue. The racks are being built for several different snakes. The extra air flow might be a good thing for some of my snakes, but I wouldn't want to drop humidity for my ball pytons. Good thoughts...and you're right, it took quite a while just to do the one board, so several more would take a while. Thanks for your response...it gives me some things to think about.

David

to be able to adjust humidity in individual cages, more holes in that tub. Also, depending on the size of the snakes, you could make the tubs "loose", with a larger gap at top. Not so big they can escape. Then for those requiring less ventilation, you could have shelf sized shims to raise the tub closer to the shelf above?
-----
Thanks,

Dave "Rainbows-R-Us"

0.1 Wife (WC)
0.2 kids (CBB)
2.7 Brazilian Rainbow Boa (adult breeders)
2.5 Brazilian Rainbow Boa (sub-adult from 2004)
4.8 Brazilian Rainbow Boa (sub-adult from 2005)
2.1 Hypomelanistic BRB
0.1 Het for Hypomelanistic BRB
0.1 BCI "Elvira" normal from 1989
1.0 BCI Albino / het-anery
0.1 BCI Hypo / het-albino
0.1 BCI Anery / het-albino
0.1 BCI Salmon (possible super)
1.0 BCI Albino het stripe
1.0 BCI Salmon
0.1 BCI Ghost
0.1 BCI Super salmon, possible jungle
1.0 BCI Salmon, possible jungle

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

Yeah, I can see that the edge banding does improve the appearance. I'll look into it. Thanks for the pics...

David