Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I'm trying to get my Columbian Red Tail to switch to frozen rats because I am adding more snakes to my collection and it'll be too expensive to feed them all live. Anyone got any tips for me as to how to make the adjustment?

feed as usual but when the snake is about to finish off the first, take the f/t and put it up (head first) to the snake's mouth. dont "offer" it to the snake. put the head inside the snakes mouth a tiny bit when the snake has its mouth open while finishing the rat or mouse.

Disclaimer: I am unaware of any negative outcome from doing this. I have not used this technique so I cannot guarantee outcome (positive or negative). I have only been recommended this by people who say that it does work.
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1.1.0 Colombian Redtail Boas (normals)
2.1.0 Sumatran Blood Pythons (normals)
1.0 Black Blood Python (normal)
1.0 Dumeril's Boa (normal)
0.1 Coastal Carpet Python (normal)
0.1 Jungle Carpet Python (normal)
0.1 Surinam Redtail Boa (normal)

i think it depends on the snakes feeding responce. i had a hogg who would not eat live or f/k for some reason only f/t. all that i've had to do was just lay the f/t rat in any of my snakes cages and have had no problem with the snake taken to f/t. the snake may not take the rat instantly but give it and hour or so, i also feed at night. i got a suri ladder tail that strikes and constricts the f/t almost every time. if this does not work get a long set of tongs and wiggle the rat a little in front of the snake. but be carefull on how you hold the rat so the snake does not strike only the tong. i got a 6 foot female that will strike accross the cage when i drag a f/t rat by its tail on the oppisite side. hope this helps it has worked for me.

I have had a few boas that have been hard to switch. What I do, when I try to switch them over is...wait a little longer to feed. Usually mine eat every 7 days, so I'll try on the 10th or 12th day.
Then I offer a fresh killed. If that works, then I do that for a few feedings just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. Then I try a frozen/thawed that has been warmed. Some times I scent the F/T first.
Amie
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1.1 Hypo Columbian Boas
0.1 Ghost Colombian Boa "Luna"
1.0 Albino Colombian Boa "Butters"
1.0 Normal? Colombian Boa "Mars"
1.1 Hypo Nicaraguan Boas "Splotch" & "Baby"
1.0 100% Het T Nicaraguan Boa "Mr.T"
0.1 Anery Nicaraguan Boa "Pepper"
1.0 Reverse Stripe Nicaraguan Boa "Johnson"
0.1 Normal Nicaraguan Boa
1.0 Bluefield's NI Boa "Shadow"
0.1 Roatan Island HO Boa "Ember"
0.1 Poss. Super Hypo Hog Island Boa "Pumpkin"
1.0 Costa Rican Boa
1.0 Corn Island Boa
1.0 Panamanian Boa "Jack"
0.1 Caulker Cay Boa
0.1 Sears Hog Island Boa "Oink"

Tips:
Dangle the prey from hemostats or tongs
Move it like a live rodent would so the snake can 'see' it
If they don't take it the first time don't feed them until it's time to eat again so they will be hungrier

if that fails:
Try wetter and dryer thawed rats
Try warmer and cooler rats
Try both rats and mice, or rats on rabbits if its a large boa
Try different colors of rats, white, black and white, black
Try feeding right after dusk
Try feeding by leaving the rat in the cage overnight

I had absolutely no problem switching any of my snakes. BTW I switched because I got mites from live, but once I did t I loved it and I thought of a million other reasons why too. The only one who didn't just immediately slam the f/t mouse I had offered, was happy to slam a f/t rat. Experiment a little. Please don'e ever power feed your boa (put another rodent in the mouth of a snake that has just eaten to get it to take another one), it is not necessary and it is dangerous. Maybe more dangerous than feeding live because it can lead to regurgitation syndrome to overfeed like that. Try just offering a f/t rodent the same way you fed live, but dangle it a little. It's easy, you'll see.

Good luck,
Caden