Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I'm sure Jeremy and Chris get tired of answering questions but, I thought I'd give it a shot. I'm looking to build a couple of stackable bluey cages. They don't need to be super light(Don't plan on moving them much) and I'm looking to build them 4ftx2ftx18in(lengthxwidthxheight) Or at least something similar. If you have any ideas I'd like to make them as simple and cost effective as possible.(I'm not real handy but, should be able to come up with something. Thanks in advance!
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Everything I know about life I learned from Nintendo!!!

So fitting you learned everything from Nintendo, that your handle begins with toad. LOL

Anyways I have no problem answering questions but as usual need more info. Since I have little to know knowledge of Blue tongue Skinks, you will have to remind me of the temp requirements and humidity. So that I may better recommend a cage.

However, you have simplified the fact that you at least know the size you want. You just need to determine what it is you want it to look like.

Melamine is probally the cheaest and easiest to work with. It is readily available, true flat, and cheap for an already finished product. In high humidity cases it can easily be lined with a protective layer of vinyl or similar product. The precut shelf pieces make easy work of assembling a cage as you don't need to cut as much.

I build nearly all my cages in the same fashion melamine carcass and stained wood fronts. It gives me the durability I need as well as the look I want. Not to mention that melamine holds heat well when compared to plastic enclosures. The same relative box design can be adjusted to meet the inhabitants needs and with a stained front the owner can look at cages that don't have the same sterile look of a plain white box.

Joints can go from simple butts to complex Dado cuts and rabbeted back panels. it is all based on the users ability and need.

Melamine may not be the look for you, it might be. An enclosure made out of Oak that looks more like a piece of furniture may be more you style. Only you can tell or know what every it is you want there are enough help her to get you the answers you need.

It may also be helpful to know what tools you have available, or it may be necessary for you to find someone to cut the wood for you.

Budget is another key factor in cage design.

Good Luck and let us know.
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Jeremy

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow RTB's
1.1 Hypomelenistic RTB's
0.2 Pastel Hypo RTB's
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino RTB's
0.1 Suriname RTB
0.1 Anerthrystic RTB
0.0.11 Red Bearded Dragons
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
0.0.1 Youth -coming soon-

My snake cages.

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Jeremy

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow RTB's
1.1 Hypomelenistic RTB's
0.2 Pastel Hypo RTB's
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino RTB's
0.1 Suriname RTB
0.1 Anerthrystic RTB
0.0.11 Red Bearded Dragons
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
0.0.1 Youth -coming soon-

As far as tools I have the basics(Drills, circular saw, sanders, jig saw) Anything else that I might need I'm sure I can get my hands on. Humidity is about 25%-40% and I keep them on Aspen. Temps are 75-80 degrees cool end and 95-105 degrees warm, basking end. I like the looks of your snake cages there. I'm not looking for quite "furniture" quality but, still ok to look at. My big thing is heating. I want to install lights to the interior of the cages (two or three sockets). But, I'm not sure if I will need additional heat sources.(Heat pads, etc.) The temps I gave you are daytime. Thanks for responses.
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Everything I know about life I learned from Nintendo!!!

thought id give my 2 sense in here as far as lighting
im building almost the same cages as jeremy posted, hes been helping me alot with getting started. im going to put in 1 ceramic light socket for my heat source, and im also installing a t-12 florescent strip running the entire length of my cage of my UVB lights. i use reptisun 10.0 florescents.

im also gonna build some smaller cages with my left over melamine that i have cause the idiot at home depot cant cut for crap. (see other post)
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Beach Beardies

3.3.11 bearded dragons
1.0.0 Turquoise x Sunburst Veiled Chameleon
1.1.0 Sugar Gliders
0.1.0 Miss Queen Athena (Cat)

Yeah, I figure two ceramic sockets (one in middle and one on warm side) and then a fluorescent fixture along the top back. I'm leaning towards two sockets because I figure one for heat and if the temps are ok with that it still gives me another socket just to light up the cage.
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Everything I know about life I learned from Nintendo!!!

Sounds like you have the appropriate gear to make a simple melamine cage, that is if you are going that route. Mine are a bit more complex with Dado joints all around. That type requires a Table saw or router. It can be done with a circular saw but not as easy.

Like I suggested to Judson you may simple use butt joints, and use the precut melamine shelving. This will give you the width and you just have to simple cross cut the piece to length. Then you a pre tapped drill hole and a screw and it will hold up pretty well.

I also recommend haveing the ceiling a floor raised up along the side piece about a 1/4 inch. This will create a gap between the two cages for wiring later one. It looks better than running the wires acrose the inside ceiling and out the back.

For you lamps you can use shallow electric boxs or full height and simply mount a porcelien socket. See Pic

My fronts are simple nailed on the front after being cut to length. There are better ways to attach them but it requires more imagination and tools at the time I didn't have either. Regardless I am still pleased witht he outcome.

Let use know what you decide, it will also beneifit you to purchase a guide for the circular saw, nothing easier to use for making straight cuts.

Good Luck

By the way the wires for this socket go up into that gap I mentioned and out the back between the two cages. Makes for a clean looking interior.

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Jeremy

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow RTB's
1.1 Hypomelenistic RTB's
0.2 Pastel Hypo RTB's
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino RTB's
0.1 Suriname RTB
0.1 Anerthrystic RTB
0.0.11 Red Bearded Dragons
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
0.0.1 Youth -coming soon-

I agree with Jeremy, it sounds like you have everything you need to make your own cage. The one thing to look out for is the quality of the blade in the circular saw. That really makes a difference and is worth every penny. I have a $45 blade in mine that has served me very well with cutting melamine.

And edge-guide and carpenter's square can turn a CS into a very accurate tool. I still get a kick of showing people cages and racks I built with nothing more than a CS and edge guide. Ironically I now have a very nice table saw and it sits unused, even though it would make my projects go by much quicker.

You might have a bit of trouble with a real wood face frame like Jermemy pictured. That takes a bit more skill but I believe it's doable. I strongly recommend the real wood face frame if at all possible. It just does wonders for the looks of a melamine cage and the wood is not all that expensive.

Dado and rabbet joints absolutely make a cage stronger and are the least expensive way to make a strong cage, assuming you have the tools to cut them. But if you don't have the tools you're probably better off buying some confirmat screws and the appropriate stepped bit and using them along with melamine glue. This is an easier and very strong way to join melamine.

My only last comment is about heating. I believe you mentioned heat pads which I just don't recommend for Bearded Dragons. You should really use overhead radiant heaters instead of heat pads for any basking diurnal lizard.
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Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

I posted to the wrong guy and managed to spell Jeremy's name wrong yet again.

Jeremy, Jermey, Jerememy -- all the same guy, LOL.
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Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

>>But, I'm not sure if I will need additional heat sources.(Heat pads, etc.)

didn't catch that till after Chris, I agree pads are bad for basking lizards stick to spot bulbs and MVB's.
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Jeremy

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow RTB's
1.1 Hypomelenistic RTB's
0.2 Pastel Hypo RTB's
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino RTB's
0.1 Suriname RTB
0.1 Anerthrystic RTB
0.0.11 Red Bearded Dragons
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
0.0.1 Youth -coming soon-

yes heat pads are horrible for beardies. they can burn there bellys pretty bad. a heat lamp and a flat rock is just fine. when they get older i use drift wood and take away the flat rocks.
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Beach Beardies

3.4.11 bearded dragons
1.0.0 Turquoise x Sunburst Veiled Chameleon
1.1.0 Sugar Gliders
0.1.0 Miss Queen Athena (Cat)