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baby corns still not eating...

WEEBEASTIES Jun 26, 2006 04:48 PM

most of these hatched on the 5th of this month. I've gotten 5 to eat so far but 6 still refuse. I've tried thawed pinkies, live pinkies, deli cups and paper bags. The others have eaten twice now.Do I panic now? Any other tricks or suggestions. They all seem active but this is my first clutch of corns so I could use some pointers. Thanks to any and all who might put in thier 2 cents worth.
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3.4.0 Beardies
1.1.0 Crested Geckos
1.1.0 Box Turtles
0.1.0 Sulcata
1.1.0 Ball Python
1.0.0 corn snake
0.1.0 great plains rat snake
0.1.0 Blue Beauty Snakes
1.0.0 Banana King snake
1.0.0 Desert King snake
2.7.0 Guinea Piggies
3.6.0 Dumbo rats
1.0.0 Blue Front Amazon Parrot
0.1.0 Congo African Grey Parrot
1.1.0 house cats
2.0.0 Maine Coon Cats
2.0.0 Boxers

Replies (8)

Colorfulcorns Jun 26, 2006 05:04 PM

Just keep trying once a week.....sooner or later they will eat...
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CD
Corns(Adults)
1.0 Snow
0.1 Banded Motley het Amel
0.1 Blizzard
Corns(Sub-adult)
1.0 Bloodred het Pewter
1.0 Anerythristic

repzoo44 Jun 26, 2006 05:20 PM

I had to feed mine mouse tails for a few feedings before they ate on their own. Just make sure to put the base in first so the hairs go down easy if you try it.

ep
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Occupants not paying rent:
1.1. balls
1.1 corns
1 everglades rat
1 w. hognose
1 bearded dragon
2.1 cats

HerpZillA Jun 26, 2006 05:52 PM

If the corns are spunky and likes to strike a bit this works great. if they do not try raising the temp a few degrees, just for a few hours to get them feisty.

OK, I cut a leg and a thigh off a pinky. And with small thongs I "slap feed". Slapping is not really needed, if they strike well. And of course just enough to get them to strike.

1 success story I had with this is I had 4 non feeding blood red hets.

Just get them to strike at the leg, and try to get it in their mouth. If you get it in there, back off slow and watch from a distance. It seems once they strike and it is in their mouth they will eat it. If they spit it out try a few times, but do not exhaust the snake. Try again later. I fed legs twice a week, then "slapfed" a pinky. in about 3 weeks. BINGO

I personally think the idea of them striking and eating is far more natural then a forced item in the mouth. I do that as a last resort and also a pinky leg and thigh. Leg part first.

I hear it is done with vipers a lot? I'm also doing it to a GTP right now. Although no much is needed to get him to strike.

Good luck.

tom

jyohe Jun 26, 2006 06:33 PM

these are in about easy order to pain in butt order.....

some you may not have access to

live pink
frozen thawed
live with cut nose pink
live with cut brain pink
frozen thawed with cut nose and brain
tuna water scented
slap /tease feeding trick
anole scented
Peromyscus pink or blood scented
chinese or russian hamster scented or pink
african soft furred rat pink
runty little fuzzy with some hair that is the size of a pink (hair makes a difference ,especially with the obsolete ssp)
sceloporus scented
skink scented
assist feeding/shove in mouth not actually down the throat
force feeding either pinky heads or anole tails or mouse legs or tails...........

.....I use small mouse legs for force/assist feeding usually.....make sure there is no sharp bone points left after cutting off mouse leg......cut at rounded joint.....I use whole leg......

........tuna is fast and cheapest........
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JYReptiles

Scales-N-Tails Reptiles ltd........Pa

WEEBEASTIES Jun 26, 2006 07:02 PM

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions...I am willing to try any or all. If standing on one foot helped I'd do that too.LOL I will keep at this and keep you posted on the results. Much thanks to all!
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3.4.0 Beardies
1.1.0 Crested Geckos
1.1.0 Box Turtles
0.1.0 Sulcata
1.1.0 Ball Python
1.0.0 corn snake
0.1.0 great plains rat snake
0.1.0 Blue Beauty Snakes
1.0.0 Banana King snake
1.0.0 Desert King snake
2.7.0 Guinea Piggies
3.6.0 Dumbo rats
1.0.0 Blue Front Amazon Parrot
0.1.0 Congo African Grey Parrot
1.1.0 house cats
2.0.0 Maine Coon Cats
2.0.0 Boxers

HerpZillA Jun 26, 2006 08:18 PM

That is one deep list. Yea I do braining before teasing too. Hognose like smashed pinkies for some reason?

good luck again
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Why does everyone still believe the world is round, when we know it is flat?
(Me)

1.3 Bearded Dragons Eenie, Meanie, Minie and Moe is the Male

2 baby female Western hognose, 2.3 adults some friend some mine) All Named George

Corn snakes
bloodred 0.1 Christal Blue Persuasion
earthtone 0.1 Wind and Fire
creamcicle 0.1 Sherbert

Amazona ochrocephala oratrix 0.1? Pretty Girl
Amazona ochrocephala auropalliata 1.1? Carol - Male, Foghorn Leghorn - Female
Amazona aestiva 1.0? Miss Prissy
Ara ararauna 0.1 April
2.0 Dogs, Michigan, Doc
0.2 Cats,, Sassie and Spooky (all black cat)
0.1 Wives, (Long term captive!,, I mean ME!) I call her (BOSS)
1.1 Kids (Paininthearsius takamemonii) J/K great kids
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tom

www.herpzilla.com

tspuckler Jun 27, 2006 06:52 AM

One of the most important attributes a snake breeder should have is patience. The snakes are only three weeks old, so there's nothing to fret about and no need to try any of those wacky "tricks" at this point in the game. Simply attempt to feed the snakes once a week by leaving them overnight in a deli cup with a pinky.

Tim
Third Eye
Third Eye

wombat Jul 03, 2006 11:48 AM

Add to the list-

A)Scent with toad or frog

B)Wash (any of the above rodent types) in soap and warm water before scenting with (any of the above scents)

C)include some substrate in the cup, and feed late at night with the lights off, so it feels safer. (also vary the type of substrate)

D)feed it in it's own cage (not a great long-term practice but many snakes seem to feel safer in their home, to get them started.)

E) create a cycle of temps i.e. raise in the day, cooler at night...

Permutations are endless, ie washing a live pinkie then scenting with toad and skink (this particular combo saved a western hog hatchling for me)

You will probably run out of snake before you run out of things to try.

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