Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have a box turtle laying eggs in my outdoor box turtle enclosure. I need to build or buy a incubator. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, J.T.

Hello: My advice would be to take a 5 gallon bucket, remove the bottom and bury it in your yard. Make sure you have a lid, cut a circular hole inside . Take the lid, insert chicken wire, fill the bucket with outside soil. Moisten the soil, bury your eggs about 4 inches down. Make sure not to jostle or turn your eggs. Cover,and slightly water. Place the lid on top with a stone (keeps the animals out), mark the hatch date about 75 days. You
can fit 4 clutches in one container. Rain water will filter through your container. Good Luck.

how about a tupperware container with moiste vermiculite on top of the fridge?
this has worked best for me with a 98% hatch rate, and the ones that did not hatch were infertile except one but it pipped then passed.
I dont put air holes in mine, I find it's harder to keep it humid, but I check them once a week and I have yet to miss a hatch.
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I use 'still air' Hovabators and am very happy with them...

I've heard of the fridge method from a couple of sources now, both parties saying that they've had great success with it. It wasn't a viable option for me for 2 reasons: I can't rally access the top of mine because it is 'built in', and even if it weren't, I have cats.

Apparently, at 3 A.M., everything can be a cat toy.

You can buy a decent incubator for less than it would cost you to build one. I also use the Still Air Hovabator and would recommend it for first times users as well as experts. You will need to calibrate it with an accurate thermometer. Have it all set up at least a day before you need it. You temperature setting will have a direct bering on the percentage of female to male sex ratios.

I also use the Fan Model Hovabator that circulates air. Many do not like this one as they claim it dries out reptiles eggs. However with just a few modifications on the fan model ( which increases humidity); I get 99% correctly predicted temp sexed hatchlings as the air is a constant temperature throughout the incubator with no cool spots or warmer spots. It's akin to a convention oven that cooks food more evenly due to circulated air. However the Fan model can't be used right out of the box; as the Still Air Model which is a great starter one that you can get new for around $32- $34 at most Feed and Farm stores or Co-ops. Reptiles specialty stores will price the same unit at around $50. Fan models are considerably more at $78.

Ric

OK, now I'm curious. In what way do you modify the fan model?

I have 2 still air models which suit me nicely, but I may need to buy 1 or 2 more in the future. I've heard of the complaint that the fan model dries the eggs out: I've even had someone tell me she had trouble keeping the humidity up in a still air model.

Also, there is a fan kit available, with which one change a still air model to a fan model: I might check that out, too.

Stephanie

The Fan Model Hovabator works on the principle that circulated air mixes with the surrounding air and results in a more uniform temperature. While comparing the Still Air and the Fan Model; I did notice that my eggs in the Fan model were needing to be misted as the moving air over the eggs picked up more moisture. All the units work by taking in fresh air from small holes made at the factory along the base of the unit. These small holes are the key for fresh air and also the reason the Fan Operated Model losing humidity quicker than the Still Air Model. To compensate for the reduced humidity the solution is simple. On a Fan Model one small alteration is all that is needed to get the benefits of more uniform temperatures throughout the incubator with high constant humidity.

Separate the two halves of the unit. Make sure they are dry and clean.
You will need to purchase a silicone white based water proof sealer that is compatible with styrofoam. I like the low oder siliconized calk made by DAP, that is water clean up but the regular white silicone is fine too. It just takes longer to dry and be rid of acetic acid fumes..about four days. Turn the lower unit over and locate the holes on the bottom. Fill all the holes in the lower unit with the calk from both sides( inside and out ).

When dry and check for any fumes before using; flood the entire lower portion with water right up to the wire/ area. I have changed my wire floor to a softer non rusting plastic grid purchased at hobby shops that is normally used for hatch hook rugs. I use a double thickness and find it can be washed easier; and should an animal get crawling on the plastic it's less likely to pinch or scratch his feet or vulnerable shell.

You now have a system that will circulate air but pick up more humidity. There are still small holes at the top in addition to the two larger ones that you can control with the red plugs enclosed with your incubator. Place your boxies eggs in your favorite medium / substrate in small plastic containers. I lay the lids on loosely with two small holes melted thru the top of each lid.. I find this method to be a very accurate one for temp sexed boxies. Also my hatch rate went slightly up.

Your plastic container size may add some variables. You'll have to experiment with what fits and what you can find locally. I use a square Glad type that does not interfere with the thermostat or heating element.

Incidentally I have found that the wafer thermostat is very fragile and needs to be checked and often replaced in just six months. Fans are sold separately and can be added to the Still Air Model if your a bit handy with wires. I use a remote digital thermometer that is checked with a mercury thermometer. You can get them at Wal Mart for around $6-$7.

So much for brevity,

Ric

Thanks for the info, Ric!