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HANDLING (not taming!) and other stuff

-Holly- Jul 01, 2006 11:04 PM

Sure Frank, I'll give it a try. We will see if anyone hears the message.
Ughhh, this is extremely long!

Goal - To have a handle able monitor

If you want a cuddle-able, pet-able pet, do yourself a favor and DO NOT get a monitor! Before leaping into handling, it is important to understand your pet, and to be sympathetic to its situation.

Tame is a bad word. Anything with teeth can bite you if it is startled, angry, or frightened. Take a good look at the teeth I have posted and have some respect.



Most of them hide in the gums, but when eating you'll get a better look. Alot of types have got a mouth full of (50 to 70) curved, serrated, razorblades in a VERY wide gape. They know their bite is dangerous. Now you know too. Count yourself lucky if you are never bitten. My mangrove Scooter has come very close to biting me quite a few times. Accidents happen. These incidents were when "I" startled him (forgot the proper respect) or incited his feeding response (forgot the proper respect..lol). When he started to get really big, I realized there may come a day when I might be bitten and I was scared. I'm not so big and he could do a lot of damage. Pulling away can shred your flesh. I decided to start conditioning myself to remain still when he swung in on me. I knew the chances of me getting out of his way were very slim anyway. A monitor's neck is extremely agile, even as adults their speed is incredible. He can see you move out of the corner of his eye and lightening in for a closer look before you can blink. I believe it is because of the relationship we have built that I have avoided being bitten. He strikes at me, and I hold still, not easy!!!. But as fast as they can strike, they can stop, if they choose to. He gets within about half an inch of me and stops on a dime, like he has just realized his mistake. Am I recommending this? No. I work very hard to have this relationship with my lizards. They know when they see me something that THEY think is good is about to happen. They show me with their actions that they don't want to bite me on purpose. How you choose to handle yourself in that situation is up to you. But it never hurts to have a plan.

Fear biting
You are huge to him and he knows he is at a monstrous disadvantage; he is only going to bite you as a last resort. His instincts tell him if he instigates a fight he can't win, he will likely be killed. Generally panicked and restrained monitors sit motionless, sometimes they shut their eyes. If you're holding and rubbing him has him convinced you are preparing to kill and eat him, he might risk biting if he believes he has nothing else to loose. It's not nice to upset him into striking at you.

Food response biting
If you smell like food, you might get bit! Wash your hands thoroughly before any interaction. For that matter, always wash afterwards too. You can get sick if you don't.

Hand feeding is really really NOT a good idea, (remember the teeth?) but some peeps with good long term relationships with their monitors do it. Accidents can still happen. He bites you, it's your fault.

If you are wiggling like prey, you might get bit! Be smart about what you put near your monitors face! That my friends is another permanent instinct. It will always be there. Monitors use their faces and mouths like a hand to check out their environment. What reason would he have NOT to go for your wiggling toe or finger? If it doesn't taste good he can always spit it out. It pays to be aware!

Anger biting
Some monitors are angry for life, some have a heartbreaking history of abuse and a good reason to hate people. In my limited experience I have found monitors in general to be shy, curious, fiercely independent beings, who enjoy time patrolling their turf. Even the most docile monitor can be in a bad mood. If he is in a bad mood, leave him alone. Don't go looking for trouble when it is so easily avoided. The monitor will also appreciate it a lot.

Why monitors DON'T make loyal and loving pets.
Most pets come from parents that nurture and love them, teach and protect them. There is cuddling, and grooming and discipline in these family groups. These types of animals will seek out another species to join up with, if they are separated from their own species. They can happily share this type of closeness and affection with a kind person.

Monitors have no such loyalty to anyone. They have no need to please anyone other than themselves. Your monitor will never ever do something because it cares if you are happy or is trying to please you. Understand that. A monitor hatches from an egg. The parents protect the nest to ensure the young hatch, but that's it. As soon as they are born they are on their own. They know if mom is hungry enough, she might eat them! Everything they need to survive they are born with. If it is smaller than me, it's food. If it is bigger than me, I am food. AND a cuddle is ONLY good if it's with another lizard like me of the opposite sex!

In the monitors mind, the only creatures who would show so much interest in him is a predator looking for a meal. Some monitors will submit to being petted if you force them, but they do not understand it or like it. Don't fool yourself. They are dominated by you, and thus unpredictable. Monitors don't like to be touched if it is your idea, (they are nervous about your focused attention) but if it is their idea they will readily touch you when in explore mode, or once in a great while rub on you to get an itchy spot. My largest monitor regularly wipes his mouth/face on my ankles ..lol..ewww. You can coexist if you prove to him you are not and never will be a threat, you are just another creature sharing the local environment. You can even have a relationship if you treat him the way he wishes to be treated. I well understand I have to be respectful and not offend Scooter, my reward is that he doesn't hesitate to approach me and check me out when he is in the mood, or thinks I may have something he likes. I would not say Scooter is my friend, I think after 12 years together he views me more as a familiar acquaintance. I try to figure out what he wants and give it to him. My reward is he is huge and beautiful, and has taught me an immeasurable amount about his kind and their care. So far, he likes to bask with me, likes the healthy variety of prey I bring, the warm water I put in his pool, a spraying of the enclosure when it gets too dry, (don't laugh-) offering cups of bottled water (he seems to prefer that to drink!), taking him places he likes to go- like outside to explore, or playing games like cricket toss or hunt the chick in the bag. When he was younger, I taught him it was ok to chase me around when I had food in tongs! He would chase me till we were both good and tired. Good exercise. In just a few months, he started getting the mouse away from me before I was ready. He learned my moves and how to counter them. He cut the "live prey" game's time down to a fraction of what it began with. Smart and fast. If you don't have an adequately sized living space for an adult, he is sure to get fat from lack of cardio exercise.

In my experience, monitors do have a fairly accurate long term memory. The standard way to tame monitors is to "hold them till they stop struggling." I ask people if they would do this to a squirrel or raccoon and the answer is usually, "no way!"(with the exception of the occasional idiot) This technique does sometimes seem to work on monitors, but for all the wrong reasons. Your animal will be loosing fear and cease struggling because its spirit is crushed. It's will to live is dying. What is life if you live at the whim of a creepy feared stranger? It will stop caring what you do because it has no choice, not because it trusts or likes you. Monitors have a very free and independent spirit, and if at all possible that should be kept intact.

Ok, on to the goal - Handle-able is the word, not tame.
For me, I only do it one way. It's the hardest, most time consuming way, but in my opinion, it's the best and kindest way. Please understand I am only sharing the experience that had worked for me, I do not claim to be an expert in this regard. I have not had many monitors, 8 to be exact in my combined 13 years of experience. 7 have of these gotten to the point they are fairly comfortable around people. The one and only sav I had would have none of me. It would even attack anyone nearby unprovoked. It was obviously mentally imbalanced, having a tantrum most of the time. Very sad I could never prove to the creature I wasn't his enemy.

IT IS MOST IMPORTANT YOUR ENCLOSURE MEET THE NEEDS OF YOUR LIZARD AND HE HAS TIME FOR ACCLIMATION BEFORE YOU START INTERACTION. STRESS CAN KILL! MAKE SURE YOUR LIZARD IS FEELING HIS BEST FIRST! Thank you

Handling 5 step program - appeal to his senses in this order
Sound
Sight
Smell & Taste
Touch

sound
Very first thing
You should wait at least a few weeks after it's arrival, but a month or more is best. Give the monitor a chance to get comfortable in its new home. Remember, its move to your home was extremely stressful, and its health is somewhat compromised even though YOU may see no outward signs. You want him eating well and at his best when you introduce yourself formally. During the acclimation period, start a care schedule. Your monitor will be calmer if he knows when to expect you. Their internal clocks keep very good time. The closer you can get to doing his maintenance at the same time every day the better. Make sure you talk to him in a calm normal voice when you are working in his cage. It is also helpful for him to see you clean and put food and water in. If he is so shy he hides from you, that's ok. Keep talking, he's listening. Don't spend too much time hanging around the cage at this time, he needs rest and privacy. Hopefully in the next 6 weeks he will begin to poke his head out to see what's going on when he hears your voice.

Sight
When he is fully recovered and comfortable in his cage, you can begin the next step toward trying to befriend him. If he has no interest in you and continues to stay hidden, you will have to dedicate some time to hanging around his enclosure to see of you can pique his interest. The idea is to let him see you doing things he likes to do. Not time for touching yet! You have to be willing to do ONLY the things he wants to do to gain maximum trust. You can sit next to the enclosure and read a novel, meditate, study, (which looks much like basking) so he can watch and study you. In the beginning, ignore him if he shows interest in you. Don't look! Don't make yourself look like a predator. He will be much more relaxed if you act like you don't care. Please make sure you have good tight hides in cool med and high temp ranges so he can still be comfortable while he adjusts to your presence. This step can take a long time depending on the monitor.

Smell and taste
If he is out and about while you are in the room some of the time, or will flee when you enter but comes out when he feels the threat has past, it's time for smell and taste. Grabbing him or taking him from hide spots will hurt his ability to feel safe and make him dislike you. MOST monitors will let curiosity get the best of them if you allow them a comfort zone that you don't enter. You know you are the owner, but he will never ever understand that he is the pet. Respect and return trust must be given to these animals, or they will never learn to trust you in my opinion. You can tempt him with tasty bits from a pair of tongs (don't use your bare hands! Accidents happen and they bleed a lot) Or a mist of water if he is a water lover.

I wear gloves in the beginning when I am ready to invite contact. (Still no touching yet!) Animals can be unpredictable. I don't know how much protection the gloves are really, but it makes ME feel more confident. Having confidence in front of the monitors is important. He will sense your fear and in turn also be afraid. Balling up your fist, thumb inside, and putting it in the opposite end of the enclosure is an invitation to the lizard to investigate. The object here is to get the monitor to come to you. So don't reach for it. By nature, monitors are curious and love to explore. The back of your closed fist is a hard target to bite, and also looks very harmless to the monitor. Gloved or not, don't rush this. If he freaks when you are as far away as you can be, he may not be ready for this step yet. If he does not approach you or run either, leave your hand for a while. Don't wiggle, don't call him, and don't get any closer. Be still and wait. When you get tired of waiting, try again the next day, and the next. You'll know when he feels you are invading his personal space if he coils his tail and inflates his throat or goes in to hide. It may take you a long time to be able to get any closer. If you can keep your fist in some part of the enclosure without him reacting negatively, do it. As days pass, inch your way closer if your presence does not upset him, but never get close enough to touch him, the last foot of your meeting in the middle should come from HIM. Repetition eventually will work on most, and after seeing you are the bringer of good things, and he feels you haven't violated him, he should start to come around. You are trying in this step to get him to flick his tongue on the back of your hand and nothing more. Again, it would be a benefit to have a schedule or ritual that the monitor can get used to, and come to expect. Hopefully, you won't have to deal with hostility at all, that's my favorite part about this method. I truly believe that most monitors are very even tempered, but all have the capability to be nasty and hostile if they don't understand you aren't going to hurt them. Once you have him tasting your hand, this too can become part of his daily ritual. You can't move on until he is reasonably comfortable with flicking his tongue on the back of your hand. It will not reward him for his trust if you immediately try and pick him up. At this point of the program, I am usually alternating between gloves and bare skin, getting him used the taste/smell of both. I also never use the pair of gloves I designate to an individual lizard for anything other than dealing with that lizard. His smell will also get on the gloves and give him a sense of familiarity. Never forget he is going to identify you by the way you smell/taste. Don't wear any lotion, perfume, or smell like cigarettes or any other strong unnatural odor.

Touch - Yay! Finally!
When a lizard looses its fear of you, it will eventually realize that your arm makes a great ladder to another world just waiting to be explored! Lizard-proof the area as best you can, as they can fit in some amazingly tiny spaces if they get spooked and run. You don't want to have to chase him down and ruin your trust and progress. If you have to retrieve him, gather him up in a thick towel or blanket so he can't feel your hands on his body. The towel will also give him the security of a good grip with all 4 clawed feet which is important. He will not associate the restraint with you as much if he can't feel your hands gripping him. Take him directly to the enclosure or wherever he needs to be, he will appreciate you keeping the restraint as short as possible!

As he gradually begins to accept your presence in his life, he will probably be more than happy to climb all over you, but don't expect him to sit still. It is much better to guide than restrain, wear more clothes if you find you are getting scratched up too much. Always offer your hand to sniff when you first approach, it's important that he flicks his tongue to acknowledge he sees you, is in a good mood, and is not offended by your presence. Don't expect more than he is willing to give you. Warming the gloves in the sun or dryer will encourage HIM to touch YOU. With some of my monitors I use gloves most of the time because they have SHARP claws! The grappling hooks on the ends of their legs are their security from falling; you have to allow them to use those claws for what they are intended. They don't mean to claw you, but realize this is inevitable. These claws don't retract. The monitor will not want to be near you if every time he approaches you, you try and touch him. If you don't want him to shy away, let him come to whenever possible. Allow him to explore, that's one thing monitors love to do. Even after he becomes docile (for a lizard), don't interact with him if he seems upset, especially if he refuses to flick his tongue on your hand.
Some monitors do not like people at all and never will, you must also be prepared for that possibility.
Is that enough?
-H-
My absolute favorite pic of Scooter, enjoy!

Replies (15)

ginebig Jul 01, 2006 11:43 PM

Good God woman, give your brain and your fingers a well deserved rest That was about as informed as one could possibly ask for in an expination. Thanks Holly, I'm savin' this for future referance.

Quig

mr-python Jul 02, 2006 12:10 AM

do you mind if i save this to my computer and print it out to study? thank you so much, that was very informative. espescially to newbie like me.
-----
-Marshall
1.1.0 ball pythons
0.0.1 red ackie

FR Jul 02, 2006 01:50 AM

I still disagree with a tiny bit, and I even remember what this time. Your post is still great.

I think a lot is about our sexes. You tend to bond or make friends with males and I with the females. For me, the males do what the human males do here on KS, they want to fight instead of play.

I once had a reptile biologist from here come over for the first time and I went into a outdoor lacie cage. Immediately the female walked over and laid on my leg and put her arm around me. And closed her eyes. The biologist said, I cannot believe that. I said, I think I handled her to much when she was little. As she likes me and not the other males. hahahahahahahahaha which is true.

I think monitors bond with eachother. I think they normally bond with their litter mates or young of the same year. This bonding normally occurs when they are very young, after that, it becomes less and less trustful as they age. Kinda a first love thing.

They also form hunting partnerships.

Those are two types of bonding I believe monitors understand.

These two types of bonding are avenues of approach for keepers to form a relationship with their monitors.

The point to this is, in order to form a relationship with an animal, it must understand and have behaviors that lend to that relationship.

The rest of your post is wonderful and I thank you for taking the time and effort. Your needed here.

The problem with me is, I am kinda like a male monitor. Independant, blunt, to the point, and if you don't like it, tuff beans. But then, If I like you, I REALLY like you. hahahahahahahaha

I find monitors to be highly social, not mammal social, or bird social but monitor social. Almost every behavior they exhibit, includes and is about other monitors. To me, that is social. So for me. The are easily tamed, or handle able, as you say. Thanks

bigwizzkid Jul 02, 2006 10:05 AM

Wow wow wow! Between the two of you (frank and holly) that was exactly what I was looking for in my post. I have had my savannah for about 6 months now, and about the only trust he has for me, is that if he is in one of his hide spots, i won't bother him, and that i'll only pick him up if i need to change the cage bedding. maybe with these steps i can get him to become slightly more... "friendly". Again thank you again to both of you, excellent resource!
-chris

FR Jul 02, 2006 04:08 PM

Try using food. Feed it at the opening of its hide. If it does not come out, then leave the food there. Then a little farther out. Then as it learns where the food comes from. Place one hand flat on the ground and allow it to eat out of your hand, then work up your arm. Then lift it a little, then touch it while its eating, not on the head, etc. Do this repeatedly and slowly. Remember, your keeping the monitor for years and years. So no hurry. Pretty soon, it will sit on your head and feed or look around etc. Your bond was thru trust and service. You are feeding it as a reward. Also remember use small food items and make them repeat the actions. Cheers

-Holly- Jul 03, 2006 12:07 AM

Thank you Frank!

Hahahahaha! Are you saying all my tristis are MALE cause they like me?

Point well taken. I understand and absolutely agree. Though you must admit, the relationships a monitor forms are very subtle in appearance compared to the relationships humans understand so well. That’s where the enormous hole in my experience and husbandry is, my limited knowledge of monitors relationships with other monitors. But not because I haven’t tried! I am sorry I didn’t find Scooter someone (another monitor) he could get along with, unfortunately, my choices were not his choices. I totally screwed up in the beginning with the set of tristis I have. I wonder a lot if that is directly related to the fact that they all act pretty genderless. (probably ) I decided against buying any more monitors at all until I have an enclosure ready I can really be proud of. Boy do I have big plans. I want more mangroves someday....*sigh* Unfortunately, not in the foreseeable future, but hopefully someday. My husbandry skills get us by, but holy cow I am STILL learning! I wish I had the capability to give them more. I am confident now that I know how to achieve the best environment I can provide thanks in HUGE part to you, even though I have been stung by your monitorish attitude a few times myself(ya beast!). I didn’t always like it, however, I learned so much from the things you have said. There are about a dozen others who have come and gone from this forum that I owe a debt of gratitude for valuable information, but none like you. *hug* (don’t bite me! lol!)

Ya hear me out there monitor peeps!?!
You too can learn so much from Frank if you pay attention. It’s actually easier now than it’s ever been, his spelling and grammar are soooooo much better than when I first met him! I used to wonder if he might actually BE a monitor trying to type on the keyboard! Sometimes it was difficult to tell when I was being insulted…lol. SO PLEASE... Stop wasting his time with questions you can answer yourself or questions and comments that don’t matter here. If you want to post, contribute pictures and stories of your monitors if you are still learning and shouldn’t be answering questions.

K Frank. No more typing. That contribution was enough to last a few months right? See you!
-H-

NEWBIES!
P.S. And now since I don’t seem to have an aversion to obscenely long posts...
I was impressed with this post’s content. It was lost in a ridiculous thread about manners. Peeps, read this post by Frank again. This isn’t a guy with a few lizards in his house. His successes span many many generations of babies he has hatched and grown to adults, and literally THOUSANDS of monitors he has kept, not to mention traveling the globe and observing all aspects of wild monitors living their lives. Read it and understand it.

Written by FR - I have lots of monitors, they are not un-tame, they are not mean, they do not want to bite you. You really have to offend them to make them aggressive. Mine will follow me around beg for food, want to be around me, just for something to do.

The point is, you must allow your monitor health and metabolism before you consider it’s tame or not. You must allow it to be a monitor first.

Any monitor at half its metabolism is tame. Their tame, because they cannot move right. They can only move slow. A healthy monitor has tremendous speed, they can outrun you without problem. They can react at incredible speed, they can catch birds in flight, or catch a jumping cricket in mid air.

Also, a tame monitor is curious, if they are awake, they have to investigate, so they squirm around if you try to hold them. To sit there to me means something’s wrong with the monitor. As that is not what a healthy monitor does. If you pick one up, they normally lift their head high to see what’s going on, they then see something of interest and HAVE to investigate it. That’s what a monitor is. Kinda like a ferret. They cannot seem to keep out of anything.

So one sitting there while you pet its ear is odd. Something is wrong with it. It’s gone submissive, and monitors are not submissive. They are curious intelligent "ACTIVE" creatures. In addition, they have minds of their own.

So please before you go on being mister tamer person, allow the monitor to be a monitor. The cool part, they are not mean to start with. (disclaimer) a percentage of wild caughts have been tortured beyond belief. They indeed have suitable reason to be mean and hate people.

About taming, I have wild roadrunners and wild lizards that eat out of my hands and crawl up on my lap, they follow me all over. They even just sit with me while I am working on our trucks And they are wild. They have no problem doing that voluntarily, but they do not like to be grabbed. Cheers

ginebig Jul 03, 2006 06:25 AM

>>I used to wonder if he might actually BE a monitor trying to type on the keyboard!

ginebig Jul 03, 2006 06:28 AM

Geeez, I wish I could get the hang of quoting someone and then commenting on it without loosing the comment. What I finished with was.....LOL Holly, Maybe Franks a dragon in his human form

Quig

VaranusAqua Jul 02, 2006 04:59 PM

Holly i got to say that you have been very, very helpful. I hadn't been on this forum for a while cuase i've been very busy lately and my monitor has in only the past week grown from that skinny, gangly wild caught into the plump, agile and alert monitor i was hoping for. When i first got him i thought he was fast and now hes on a full stomache and wow... hes quick. It was nice to sign in and see the posts you left. This forum is becoming my monitor bible. Much more helpful then any caresheet.

I've grown accustom to him running away and hiding whenever i pass the tank. Its actually quite amusing he'll see me and run into his hide... then ill leave a pinky in front of it and watch. He comes out looking around, grabs the pinky and runs back in. Hes so shy. But since i have stopped touching him he seems to be feeding much better.

Holly you have a very interesting technique with handling monitors. It sounds very effective and im going to use it. I'm very gald to have someone like you in this forum.

FR, you can be quite rude(LOL) but i know you know what your talking about so when i have a question i'll be sure to ask you.I never got the chance to feel the heartbeat because i haven't handled him since that one time you said to stop. And you know what, hes been eating alot more, and being altogether more active since i've given him his space.

Thanks alot to both of you.

phantompoo Jul 02, 2006 05:55 PM

nice post,

i just wanted to second the notion of being careful when handling your monitor

I soak my ackies periodically, and they used to hate it at first and got a little stressed (the dont seem to mind it now). upon putting them back in the cage, one snapped me good and "pig-dogged"(thats when they bite and keep digging and twisting their teeth in) my finger for about a minute before i could get nextdoor and get some vinegar to get him off my finger(cold water did nothing). what an intense pain and jaw pressure, and mind you, it was barely 12 inches at the time.

There was a quite a bit of blood too

the point here is, what a fool i am. I used to have a blackthroat and when he was about 2.5 feet long i used let him climb on my shoulder unrestrained. Thank god he didnt decide my neck or my ear was food or that i was a threat

i couldn't even imagine the damage it could have done if it wanted.

-Holly- Jul 03, 2006 12:12 AM

Hiya!
Thank you everybody for the positive comments and your kind appreciation! I don¡¦t spend a lot of time with people (I prefer the company of animals) But you guys and gals have really made my day. Happy! Don¡¦t forget your best teacher and best source of information lives in your enclosure, the monitorƒº

There is no need to ask if you want to save or print a post of mine, I would only be upset if you tried to pass a copy on to someone else as your own thoughts. Though¡K as I think about it, it was very respectful to be asked. Your monitor will appreciate that quality in you!

To Phantompoo¡K

It doesn¡¦t hurt to have a small bottle of vinegar or alcohol nearby your cage for just such an occasion. Accidents happen. You can buy a perfect bottle (cheap) at a beauty supply that is meant for doing highlights in hair. It only takes one hand to use, pick it up and squeeze. It has a very small elongated tip so you can easily put the tip in it¡¦s mouth without giving a huge dose to the monitor. I suspect it really doesn¡¦t take all that much. This type of bottle is also a very effective way of keeping the nasty stuff out of their eyes.

I just asked my son (a stylist) about the bottle and he let me borrow one for a picture, unfortunately I realized I can¡¦t include it in this post because I lent my camera out for the day. I put one up when I get it back.

It is extremely unlikely the monitor you let climb on your shoulder would attack you without some provocation. In most cases it would have to be experiencing fear, feeding response, or anger. Of course some monitors are psycho, but you would be able to tell that before you let it climb all over you. Don¡¦t rub meat on your ears or neck to be on the safe side¡K.hahahahah! A long time ago I read this story about a guy who was eating meat, and right after went to hang out with his monitor. The guy stuck his tongue out and the monitor grabbed it (smells like meat, looks like meat¡K.) At the end of the story he said ¡§April fools!¡¨. Thank goodness¡K. It¡¦s still a good idea not to put your face right in their face. Sounds like your biter was pissed. Could be fear too, but the way he gnawed on you sounds like he had really had enough of ¡§your way¡¨.
Thanks for sharing! ¡VH-

phantompoo Jul 04, 2006 12:26 AM

so true, yea very little vinegar was needed

yea, the bt was actually very calm at the time, my point, which i kinda skipped out on was that it is still a wild animal

yea, my ackies used to totally hate the water and i had to soak them because they already had toes and tail tips missing from the breeder (i did research the animals beforehand, and despite the surprise on arrival, they were overall healthy so i did not make a stink, though i should have) I later found out that he kept them on sand so i dont know how he even bred them. (the soaking helped them get rid of stuck sheds and they even grew a few nails back which weren't totally gone) the soaking seems to be beneficial so i kept it up anyway and they tolerate it now

they are doing well and as soon as i get a digital camera going i really need the forum's help with figuring out their sexes.

pics soon

thx for your advice and help

cheers

razaiel Jul 11, 2006 06:24 AM

What a wonderful article!! When I first got my sav I was told the normal "get it out and handle it every day for 15 mins" - of course - it hated it. Then I found a really good forum that advocated the same as you - not handling and letting it "be a monitor". So now over the last couple of months (he's almost a year now) I've been using that "not touch much" technique - and certainly not pulling him out of hiding! Now I find he's out and about more and basking and not running to hide whenever I enter the room. Yesterday he was in his basking corner while I was busying myself around him in his viv (just talking to him like you say) and he just watched me. I even scritched his head and he didn't do any of the "don't touch me" signs. I have learned - but again, I say, wow! what a fantastic article
~Sue

squidbelly Jul 04, 2006 07:18 PM

I've always loved the big lizards, they're amazing, beautiful, and a challenge. Alas, the college student is without space, time, money, or a steady enough schedule to care for one! That post was amazing, and it is on my hard drive now for future reference (ie...once I'm out of college and have a decent job). *Bap*

pgross8245 Jul 23, 2006 08:54 AM

Just got back from vacation and had to catch up. Your post was excellent, very well written and to the point. It should be added to the Kingsnake FAQs area for future reference. Thanks for taking the time to help potential owners get a real insight into what it may be like when a monitor is acquired. Keep up the good work.

Pam
-----
1.1 varanus acanthurus brachyurus (Dorado & Dora)
1.1 u. macfadyeni (Amani & Abeba)
1.2 u. ornata (Husani, Zari, & Bintu)
1.1 u. ocellata (Zuhri & Ashai)
0.0.1 u. aegypticus (Halima)
1.1 hyla chrysoscelis (Pudge & Squirt)

Herps Are Awesome!

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