Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hi, I posted this in the nabitat forum, but nobody is over there. I'm planning on getting a baby ball python within the next couple of months. I am going to keep it in a glass cage, and need some help. So far what i have decided is to start it off in a 10 gal tank, and use larger tanks as it grows. What all do I need to have a succesful tank. I know i need a hid spot, a water dish, heat lamp, thermometer and something to read humidity. But what kind of substrate is best, what watt heat lamp do i need? I'm trying to avoid using an UTH as i have heard they can malfunction easily and cause a fire. I live in souther california, so its never really too hot or too cold here. I want to make sure the snake has a good home, and I also want to make sure i have everything set up right the first time, and not have the snake get sick. Thanks for any help.

Most undertank heaters are fine though often it is best to hook them up to a thermostat so they do not over heat. Human heating pads are good as well, just get the ones with more than one setting (ie low, med, high) and don't have an auto switch. With these I find it is best to plug them into a timer, so they turn off once or twice during a 24 hour period. I have mine set to be on for 6 hours, then off for about 4 then one again for 6, off for 4.

A spot light can be used but something should be under it that snakes can lie on to get the heat absorbed by the surface (ie a flat rock big enough for the snake to coil on comfortably, as they tend to get heat from bellies not from teh sun as day time basking reptiles do.

For substrate, cypress mulch, aspen, paper towel or newspaper is fine.

A humidex is needed to measure humidity but for the most apart, humidity isn't much a problem though a basking light/spot light does dry out the air in tanks so mistings daily or a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in is needed to keep humidity up. Placing a wide lipped water dish partially or completely on an undertank heater can double as water dish, (if a dog dish with hole cut into the base, can serve as a warm spot hide as well) and humidifier as the heat evaporates the water.

Starting in a small tank and increasing tank size as the snake grows is good, as it helps promote a sense of security in the snake. Snakes can feel insecure when small and set in a large tank.
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PHLdyPayne

10 gallon is a good size for a baby - you'll likely need to find something to put over the screen top - i use plexiglass - to help hold humidity in.

Substrate - I prefer Reptibark for my tanks for substrate, you can also use cypress, aspen, astroturf or newspaper/papertowels - do not use sand or any wood products that have cedar or pine (OK some people have used pine for years but it can potentially be hazardous).

Heating - a UTH hooked up to a thermostat with shut off is the best method - balls like belly heat and being that you are in So. Cal. you will have more need for the belly heat than ambient needs (unless you run your AC alot). Heat lamps tend to dry out your tank and have just as much chance of malfunctioning as UTHs - I don't use them on any of my tanks anymore - they are a pain in the @ss. Any heating element you choose should be put on a thermostat.

Hygrometer - don't get those analog ones - splurge for a good digital one they are farily cheap - try target in the gardening section I think they have a $10 one that works well.

Waterdish - one that won't tip over and is big enough for soaking if need be.

Hide - one on both hot and cold ends if possible - should be small enough that your ball fits in snuggly - you may need to put newspaper or pack with substrate if it's too big. You can use any assort of cheap plastic container or such with a hole cut out if you are on a budget.

Babies like to climb you might want to put in lots of stuff to climb up and on, but remember what you put in you'll have to clean.

Make sure you buy clips for the lid - balls are notorious escape artists!!!

Best of luck with your little one!
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Tosha

"Nihil facimus sed id bene facimus"

6.34.0 Ball Python (Harry and Fluffy and gang)
1.0.0 Angolan Python (Anakin Skywalker)
0.0.1 Green Tree Python (Verdi)
0.1.0 Bredls Python (Smurfette)
0.2.0 Feline (Pippen and Pandora)
0.0.1 Desert Tortoise (Pope John Paul aka JP )
2.2.1 Fish (1,2,3,4)
0.0.0 frogs rescued from pool skimmer
0.0.1 Lizards of unknown origin

Thanks for the help, what would be a good UTH that you would recommend. I was in the saltwater fish world for a long time, and know the importance of getting a good quality heater. Also does the UTH only go on one side to keep the tank with a warm side and a cool side? or does it go under the whole tank? Also i want to feed frozen/thawed food, but the places i have seen online sell it in bags of 100. How long can food stay frozen before it isn't any good anymore?

the purpose of an UTH is to provide a warm basking area and allowing the snake to thermoregulate so it should only go on one side of the tank. As for frozen feeders goes, if the animals are vaccum packed and sealed they can last a year or more, those that aren't I'd say 4-6 months at most, but I could be wrong because I feed almost exclusively either live or very fresh killed.
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Josh Hutto
J&K Reptiles

2.3 het pied (RDR, alan bosch x 2, BHB x 2)
1.0 Spider Ball python (Ballroom pythons south)
1.0 Vanilla Ball Python (Gulf Coast)
0.1 High Contrast Albino (Gulf Coast)
1.1 het albino (ben siegel, Gulf Coast)
1.2 het citrus ghost(Gulf Coast line)
1.0 citrus ghost (Gulf Coast line)
1.1 graz pastel female
Alot of normal BP females (some not so normal)
2 various corns
0.1 brazilian rainbow boa (alan bosch)
1.0 american pit bull terrier
1.1 taco dogs (ankle biters)
1.0 grey cat
0.1 columbian red-tail boa

a BAD dog is MADE not bred, support the American Pit Bull Terrier as the greatest breed of dogs on Earth!!!!!

Ok, so this is what i have so far listed as what i need.

A 10 gal tank
An UTH
Substrate
2 hide spots
1 water bowl (large enough for him/her to soak in)
Stuff to climb on
a secure lid
thermostat
hygrometer

Am I missing anything, besides the snake?

Clips to hold the 'secure lid' in place when your snake begins to test its surroundings. Snakes are exscape artists, and BP's are no exception. Snakes have the uncanny ability finding weak points, and from my experience, they remember where exactly they exscaped the first time, thus they're out again!

It's entirely up to you, but I've discontinued glass enclosures. They do little for ball pythons especially, in the way of keeping their needs met. Glass terria do not hold heat, nor humidity levels well at all, which you will find out sure enough.

Both my ball pythons are housed seperatly; one is in a sterlight, drilled holes on the sides (for ventilation) and for stacking ability. The other python is being housed in a Vision.

Both cages are heated using UTH's (heat tape), hooked to thermostats, and timers, comeplete with digital thermometers. The heat tape is hooked to the thermostat, and the thermostat is hooked to a 24 hour timer, set to run for ten hours in the summer months. So, from 7 AM to 5 PM, the heat source is on. At 5 PM, the timer automatically cuts off all heat in the cages, or basically turns everything off for me. This way I don't have to manually turn buttons off/on and I have a nice steady temperature gradient year around, unless of course I'm cycling my pair.

Just something else to think about. Glass terria are not the only options to house snakes, and if you do your homework well enough, you'll find many keepers do similar setups like myself, or even rack systems.

By the way, since no one mentioned it, day temps - 88-95F (basking), 78-82(cool end). Night temps - 78-80F (warm side), 74-78F (cool side). Humidity levels - 60-75% but I perfer 60% myself.

Good luck, and I can't stress enough, read, read, read. These snakes are long lived in captivity, and keep asking questions because you'll get a pethera of opinions and advice.

Well i want a glass aquarium, because i want to be able to see the snake easily, and have it on display. Of course it won't be near heavy traffic, and it will have plenty of hiding spaces so it can feel secure. THe other enclosures i have seen so far, are either way too expensive for me, or don't give enough visibility for my likes. But thanks for your comments, I am trying to read as much as i can. It will probably be a couple of months before i get my snake, so i have plenty of time to read. Ohh yeah, thank you for the temps.

No problem, glad to help. Best of luck with your future friend. I've had my male for seven years now, and I've heard the record for a BP's life in captivity was fourty-seven years! So, expect to have yours at least ten to twenty years, if not longer.