Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hey, I am just looking for some good basic info on breeding bloods. I picked up this female (about 7 years old) that has just been a pet, and am thinking about picking up a male to go with her and would like to do some reading before I do. I have bred ball pythons and carpet pythons, so I do have some python breeding experience. So if any of you can point me in the righ direction for some good info I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Ben
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Ben
www.australianaddiction.com

Hey bud pull that blood off the aspen and use paper or much depending on your humidity in the room. I use 6 ply kraft paper but my hole room is 70% humidity. If you have any specific questions post and will try to answer them for you.. Thanks Ryan T.B.C.

Just curious, why are the wood chips bad? Hadn't heard that before. Also, I don't have any specific questions, I would just like to know where would be a good place to read good all around breeding info.

Thanks!
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Ben
www.australianaddiction.com

Hey Ben-
As to substrate choice...opinion varies greatly. I'm a news print man; cheap and it works. Not too asthetically pleasing, but functional.
The reading you're inquiring about hasn't been written yet, I'm afraid. The fancy is still quite young. Lots of folks are producing clutches but no one to my knowledge has written much. Check out VPI for the closest to what youre looking for...and as previously mentioned, if you have specific questions, there are many knowledgeable folks here that are very helpful.
Enjoy your blood python. I think you'll find them unique.

Hey,
I'll try to answer this in short. Males and females should just prior to the breeding period, be cooled for an 8 week period. Temperatures for both the males and females, should be lowered to the lower eighties during the day, with a low of about 82-84 DTH, with a NTL of about 77-78 degrees Fahrenheit. A basking spot can be provided for both sexes during the cooling period for about 4 hours during the day, after which the heat is turned off and the day time high resumes the recommended cycling temperature. Blood pythons are not very tolerant of cool temperatures so a temperature in the low seventies is not recommended lest your blood will suffer from a RI, in no time flat. Both males and females should not be fed during the cooling period and food should be with held at least 2 weeks prior to cooling.

After the eight week period, both the male and female temperatures should be increased gradually to normal parameters, of mid-eighties for an ambient temperature with a basking spot of 88-95 degrees depending on the heat source (type) and the size of the cage in question. At this time, both males and females can be introduced and allowed to copulate. Feedings should be done in separate containers during this period to avoid accidents during feedings of cohabitating bloods. Females will usually ovulate 6-30 days after the last copulation if observed, and will usually stop feeding thereafter. Some females have been known to eat after ovulation, while some stop feeding all together. My females stop eating once observed ovulations have taken place or a couple of weeks thereafter.

After about 20 days post ovulation, females will go into a pre-lay shed, and will lay eggs some 24-40 days later. Once females are known to be gravid, they should be separated from the male and set up in a separate cage. After the post-ovulation shed, females should be given a large container filled with long fiber sphagnum moss for her to nest in and lay her eggs. (I separate known gravid females and place into a large 2222 Rubbermaid sweater box and use newspaper for substrate).

Females that lay eggs earlier than the 24 day period usually have ovulated prematurely, and will sometimes deposit eggs that have not been shelled properly and will turn out to be infertile (slugs).

Eggs should be harvested about 12-24 hours post deposition, and should be set up in an established and calibrated incubator using the appropriate incubation medium, i.e., vermiculite, or perlite, or a 50/50 blend of the two aforementioned mediums, adjusted with an equal amount of water by weight. The incubation medium, should be placed into the incubator prior to adding any eggs and allowed to temper. Eggs take any where from 58-68 days to hatch depending on the incubation temperatures. Cooler temperatures will cause eggs to hatch later whilst warmer temps will decrease incubation times. I use a temperature of 31.7 Celsius plus or minus (appx=88.88 fahrenheit) to incubate blood python eggs.

I hope this helps! Phew!

-Angel

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In life you can fall many times, but you're only a failure, if you don't try to get back up!
Evil Canevil

Well done, Angel! You may as well good ahead and write the book. I'll by a copy if you'll autograph it.
Bill

Hey Bill,
Thanks! it's nice to know I have a buyer this early in the game. LOL! Cheers!
-Angel
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In life you can fall many times, but you're only a failure, if you don't try to get back up!
Evil Canevil

Hey,
I wanted to add, that some breeders introduce pairs during the actual cooling period and have had great success that way too. It is a give or take. You have to try and see which one works for you.
-Angel
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In life you can fall many times, but you're only a failure, if you don't try to get back up!
Evil Canevil