Sorry to hear that you lost your chameleon. Its not easy losing a pet. 1 year is not long for a female veiled to live. 
When a female becomes eggbound it can be for many reasons...most often its poor husbandry or lack of a suitable site to lay the eggs in or being watched while digging. It can also be caused by deformed eggs, eggs that have become too large to pass, problems with the reproductive system....and I'm sure there are some I have missed.
Signs of eggbinding include but are not limited to digging a hole and filling it in without laying the eggs, going downhill, becoming dehydrated, inactivity and weakness.
With MBD, the first signs in a veiled are usually the look of an extra elbow, crooked legs, a pliable cask or jaw. Other signs include weak grip, tongue shooting problems, not walking standing high on its legs but low and close to the floor or branch same about bone disease.
You asked..."I would like to know what I could have done differently, if I decide to try anouther female she will live for a while"...I can't really tell you what you should have done differently. I will tell you how I keep veileds and that most of my females live to be over 6.
First of all...be aware that I live in a cool climate so what I do will have to be modified to suit the area you live in and the circumstances that you keep your chameleons in.
Each cage has a full spectrum/UVB light. The one I use most often is the Repti-sun 5.0. I have a 60 watt basking light....or whatever size it takes to get the temperature right.
I have well-washed (both sides of the leaves) pothos in all the cages. I wash/water the soil well just to help get rid of the fertilizer or any insect spray that is in it and then I cover it so that the chameleons can't eat it.
I use maple branches in the cages just because they are available and don't cause problems.
I provide a container for the female to lay the eggs in.
I do not use any substrate. Too many of them cause impaction.
I do not use water dishes but I do mist once or twice a day and use a dripper.
I gutload my insects well with foods that are nutritious for each kind of insect. I don't have any faith in the commercial gutloads.
I feed as wide a variety of insects as I can to them but I never feed them wild insects because I worry about parasites. I feed adults every two or three days. I dust the insects with calcium (Rep-cal, phosphorous free) two or three times a week. I dust the insects lightly with vitamins/minerals (the type with vitamin A from a beta carotene source) twice a month and I use Rep-cal's calcium/D3 powder lightly twice a month because my chameleons are kept indoors almost always.
I feed them an assortment of greens (dandelion greens, kale, collards, endive, ROMAINE lettuce, etc.), veggies (sweet red peppers, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, carrots, etc.)and fruit (apples, pears, melon, berries, etc.).
I control the females diet and the temperature to slow the metabolism and it seems to control the egg production. I have females that are 4 years old ahta have never laid a clutch....but that will reproduce if I chose to let them.
Hope I didn't miss anything! I hope your male will continue to do well and that if you get another female, she will too. There's a learning curve when keeping chameleons....so if you can do what has been proven to work, you can skip a lot of steps.
