Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Well, I've got the carcass of my Ball Python condo put together and it is coming along quite nicely. I build bottom and top frames from normal 2x4, the sides are 3/4in Ash ply, and the shelf supports are 1x2 Aspen. Everything is glued and nailed and very solid. It will have four cage spaces that are 36x20x14 and a storage area at the bottom that could be converted to a cage space later if (when!) I need the space. For the subfloor I'm going to use 11/32in ply and cut a hole in that so I can put flexwatt directly on the underside of the flooring, but I still can't decide what to use as the flooring.

Initially I was going to use FRP. I may still use this but I have one concern...the smell. In the store I can detect a pretty strong fiberglass odor and I don't want the cages to smell like that. I have concerns that the odor may indicate some stronger funes. Is that a legit concern?

Other things I was looking at are... vinyl flooring, but I have concerns about putting the flexwatt directly on that; or tile board which is a pressed wood product with a "water resistant" top layer. I have concerns about how water resistant this tile board is and I know if the pressed wood does get wet it basically disintegrates.

So, my questions are:
1. Does FRP have any fume outgassing that I should be concerned about and does the smell go away?

2. Will vinyl flooring take the heat of flexwatt?

3. Will tile board hold up to the heat of flexwatt and the exposure to liquid?

4. What would you recommend as a flooring?If is not one of these three choices it has to be something that is readily available at someplace like Lowes or Home Depot and not too expensive. (I have a limited time do get this done while my car is in the shop and I fight with Mazda on the warrenty claim...GRRRRR, and I don't want to spend too much on the flooring so I can get a good tstat)

Thanks all!

1. Does FRP have any fume outgassing that I should be concerned about and does the smell go away?

FRP does offgas, presumably solvents that carry the polyester resins. Nasty stuff but it should offgass completely. Fiberglass is used in all sorts of stuff for babies and pets so if you're willing to give it some time it should be fine. Keep in mind that tanks holding water for human consumption are sealed with epoxies that contain some of the nastiest solvents you can buy without a permit. Yet once fully cured they are completely inert. Fiberglass is the same way, it just needs time.

2. Will vinyl flooring take the heat of flexwatt?

I never use undertank heat so I can't really say for sure. In some cases you can use radiant floor heat underneath linoleum, like in a bathroom, but these products never give off the heat of flexwatt used in a reptile application.

3. Will tile board hold up to the heat of flexwatt and the exposure to liquid?

Tile board will work but it won't last as long as other choices. You'd need to install it in a way that allowed it to be replaced. A ball python won't be that bad but if there are frequent water bowl spills, for example, the TB could break down. Since it is so cheap and since this is for a ball python it might be your best choice. For about $10 you can get five pieces of floor for your cage. Enough for the four levels and an extra piece for later repair.

4. What would you recommend as a flooring?If is not one of these three choices it has to be something that is readily available at someplace like Lowes or Home Depot and not too expensive.

In summary, I think FRP is overkill for a BP. But I do think it will be safe and handle the heat fine for a lifetime. But I hate cutting the stuff so I don't see the need. And it can be hard to clean.

I would lean towards vinyl flooring or tile-board. Again with the tile board try to come up with a way that it can be removed. Unfortuantely installing it so that it can be removed often makes it less moisture resistance at the edges where it's needed most. You have to be careful here. I used to build cages without floors and then just stapled/siliconed tile board directly to the bottom edges of the cage. When it needed to be replaced I simply popped off the staples and used a razor blade to scrape away the silicone. It was a pain but it was cheap.

A similar choice would be shower board that is actually rated for use in shower stalls (contrary to popular belief, tile board is not rated for use in shower stalls). Check carefully for this at Home Depot and Lowes. At my local stores it's not so obvious.
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Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Jave local (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

1.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Celebes locale (Black & Tan)

I can make this simple.. use overhead heating and avoid all of the headaches of trying to heat through whatever flooring you decide to use.

BPs do great with ceramic heat bulbs, red heat bulbs, radiant heater panels, etc. If using a ceramic bulb, make sure the BP cannot come in contact with it.

If you still want to use underfloor heating because it is ecomonical (and I understand that 100%), see if a Kane heat mat will fit in your cage. They are heat pads that are encased in HDPE and go right inside the cage. I have the 18x18 model, and the cage must be near 20" deep to fit it in there. Use a dimmer on that and you're in business. See www.beanfarm.com

And if you don't like my suggestions, listen to what Chris Harper said.