Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Is it okay to keep a male and female in a 20gallon tank? I don't want to stress them out or anything. Also, what substrate should I use, and do I need a heat light, or will a heating pad suffice?

Thanks!

>>Sounds like you got these before checking them out so be sure to read the care sheet at web address below....for your Leos sake!!!

http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/RMHPages/RMHeopard.htm

That should answer most of your questions, but if you have more be sure to ASK so you can do a good job taking care of your new "babies". Their care is your responsibility now and they are depending on you to keep them safe and healthy.

It's better to check out the needs of "pets" before you bring them home, not after. It's less stressful for them if you have everything ready for them when they get to their new home with you.

Good luck and feel free to ask anything, we're here to help our little friends as much as we are you. We want you both to do good.

**Kenn**

>>Is it okay to keep a male and female in a 20gallon tank? I don't want to stress them out or anything. Also, what substrate should I use, and do I need a heat light, or will a heating pad suffice?
>>
>>Thanks!

I'll tell you what we do for ours.
We have one light that we change bulbs in, one for days and one for nights. We use reptile carpet for substrate (2 pieces that we change when one is being cleaned.) We have a "cave" for a hide (make sure it's big enough for two or have more than one.)
They need a water bowl and the water has to be changed daily. It helps to have silk leaves or something else for them to climb on (I take mine out when I feed them so the crickets can't hide.)
I feed mine crickets and waxworms coated with gecko dust (a calcium supplement so they can digest their food.) The cage needs to have a screen lid, so they can't get out, and so they get air. Humidity is hard to control, mine has been doing fine with it at around 50%.
Thermometer and humidity guage are needed to monitor these. Day temps no more than 90-92, night time around 70.
For the first few days to a week don't handle them so they have time to adjust and de-stress from their move.
Feeding should be at around the same time every day (if you feed them daily, when they are older they can be fed every other day) crickets or whatever you feed them should be no longer than their head and half as wide so they don't choke.
To reduce stress feed them, pick out old "poop", and change their water at the same time. Change the carpet at least weekly, wash old one with mild soapy water and rinse GOOD.
Hopefully between the care sheet page and what I told you your Leos will have a long healthy and happy life.

Just so you know..

I have my one baby in a 20 with a heating pad and the calcium powder dish and the worms and the rock and all the stuff. He's on reptile carpet. I have done my research, but I wanted my question answered.

Other than that.

I'm hearing the best stuff to use is reptile carpet..is that true?

Also, they said you didn't need a light..and i've also read that, as long as you have a heat pad. That's also what the breeders at the reptile show said.

Ideas on stuff?

Sorry!!! My mistake
Yes reptile carpet is probably best so you don't have to worry about possible impaction problems from substrates. You also don't have to worry as much about them getting sick from bacteria because it's so easy to change and take care of. Mine has done great with it. If and when he goes to the bathroom it's easy to pick up, and if you ever need a sample for the vet it's easy to find. I definitely reccommend it.

The reason for the lights is mostly for temperature and humidity control. Since it should be in the upper 80s to 90 during the day our houses don't usually meet that requirement. It also should be UV-A and UV-B because it helps their bodies produce vitamin D-3 so they can utilize the calcium they need. The night bulb is mostly for them to see better if they "night prowl". (Mine is an Albino Leopard Gecko and is nocturnal.) If yours is diurnal (like us up during the day) you probably don't need the night bulb.
It's funny, mine can't stand the sunshine but inside light doesn't bother him, go figure.
Again SORRY for the wrong assumption about your research. I shouldn't have assumed that and I feel bad about it. I had someone do the same thing to me so I should have known better.

Best of luck and feel free to write anytime.

I keep my leopard geckos on ceramic tile cut to fit the tank. I love it, looks more natural their nails don't get caught and I just lift it out to clean it. It also seems to keep their nails trimmed back.

I use a 2.0 UV light on my geckos for 10 hours a day. Some people say they don't need it, some say they do, so I offer it just incase. I do sometimes see them basking just outside the entry ways of their caves. I also like to have the viewing light. For heating I use an undertank heating pad and a ceramic heat emitter. I have my geckos in a 40 breeder style tank (36 inches and 18 inches wide).