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*Dual Forum Post* Leopards..

AndrewFromSoCal Sep 25, 2006 01:35 AM

Alright, so I got this tyke at the Anahiem show in Saturday.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i312/post4space/3.jpg

Sorry, not sure which code will work.

Anyway, I have a few questions on behavior.

I've been keeping him warm, I have a light on him, papertowels for substrate, calcium, and mealworms. I put some water in his cage this morning, and he drank for a good 5-10 minutes, so I know that's not it. He also has a toilet paper roll in there for a hide. Now, all would seem well, but he keeps walking around with his eyes looking half closed, like so.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i312/post4space/1.jpg

This IS my first Leopard Gecko, so i'm not entirely sure if this is normal behavior, I was just wondering what was going on. He also doesn't seem to be eating. I'm going to leave 9 mealworms in there overnight and see how it goes. I'd assume he knows where they are, because he crawled around with them for a few minutes a little while ago.

He's rather tiny, so i'm guessing he's about a week to two weeks old. The guys I bought it from at the show (LLLReptile) said they weren't sexed, so I don't know if it's a male or female yet, but I can wait for that.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i312/post4space/2.jpg

Any guesses on the age will be appreciated. Tomorrow, i'll be putting it in a 20 gallon tank, assuming I can figure out the no eating thing.

Thanks!

Replies (5)

balloonzforu Sep 25, 2006 07:44 AM

He/She is a Bell Albino, and their eyes are the most sensitive to light when it comes to the three albinos. Don't use light for heat, use an Under Tank Heater. Also add a moist hide for him, if you haven't already.
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www.LeopardGeckoBreeder.com

www.LeopardGeckoArt.com

6.19.3 Leos
1.0.1 Red Ear Sliders
1.0 Pembroke Corgi
0.2 Cats
8 fish

garweft Sep 25, 2006 11:38 AM

There is no real need for it anyway. Use under tank heat instead, but make sure to get a dimmer or thermostat. I could not tell if it was an albino or a possible hypo from the pics, but albinos are very light sensitive. If it isn't a hypo, strong lighting from a heat lamp would stil cause heavy squinting. Remember these guys are nocturnal. There are not designed for full sun. I would also provide a few more hides for the Leo, that are more secure than a paper towel roll. I use papertowel rolls too, but I cut them in half lengthwise so they have a lower profile. Whatever you use make sure it is low profile and dark. The last thing you want is a stessed Leo.

Also, it looks no older than 3-4 weeks. But I have never used a shotglass before for size comparison.

sleepygecko Sep 25, 2006 11:50 AM

I definitely agree that until you get more hides and more room you should lose the strong light... However I strongly suggest the use of a light with UV as I have found in my experience that geckos with the UV light are much more active and eat better than without. (We weren't convinced until we tested it ourselves, the change can be drastic.) I have cared for 2 albinos and if they have enough hides they can limit their exposure as appropriate to their more sensitive eyes so not to worry there, in fact our first albino had the greatest change in eating amounts when we switched to light with UV.

So basically, lose the light for now, but please consider it when you set up a proper enclosure. Good luck.
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0.1 Albino Leo Gecko
0.1 Crested Gecko
1.0 Dear Boyfriend
Departed: Harvey and Spock

andrewfromsocal Sep 25, 2006 12:23 PM

I left 9 mealworms in it's bowl last night, and this morning, after I had recovered the ones that had escaped and hidden, 3 were gone. I would assume this means he ate them, because i'm pretty sure they can't climb on glass.

The leo right now, until I get him in the bigger cage when I get home this afternoon, is using one of my snake's heat lamp. It is this ~> http://www.petco.com/Shop/petco_Product_R_2302_PC_productlist_Nav_259_N_27 113_cp_3_Nao_24_sku_401854_familyID_14564.aspx
I will, however, when moving on to the bigger enclosure be moving onto one of the bell shaped lights that I have left over from a tortoise's temp enclosure ~>http://www.petco.com/Shop/petco_Product_R_3633_PC_productlist_Nav_259_N_27 113_cp_3_Nao_24_sku_934828_familyID_12467.aspx
Unless those are not suitable for leopard geckos. I have the one of the medium undercage heaters, the pads made by ZooMed, which I also use on my snakes.

Questions:
Where should the the under tank be placed? I've read that leos regulate their temperature on their own, so I was wondering if I should put the pad in the middle, or to one side. Since I will also be using a lamp later on, will I also be placing that to the left or right on top of the heating pad, and will that get too hot?

I was also wondering if it's a problem to add leopards into the same tank with each other after one has come accustomed to being alone. I would like to get two more leopards, but I don't want to do this until I can find out if mine is male or female, to avoid fights and otherwise unwanted problems.

I have 3 different kinds of calcium..is UVB needed for leos as it is for tortoises indoors? Also, can I still supplement their food with TRex products?

Lastly, is it okay to use black-light, or other non-light bulbs for viewing reasons, or will this bother the leo too much?

Thanks for the help everyone!

olstyn Sep 25, 2006 07:08 PM

>>Questions:
>>Where should the the under tank be placed? I've read that leos regulate their temperature on their own, so I was wondering if I should put the pad in the middle, or to one side. Since I will also be using a lamp later on, will I also be placing that to the left or right on top of the heating pad, and will that get too hot?
>>

The under tank heater goes at one end, and should not cover more than 1/4 to 1/3 of the floor area of the enclosure at most. They regulate their temperature by moving between the warm and cool ends. Putting the heater in the middle would not allow them enough of a thermal gradient.

As far as the lamp goes, you need to monitor the temperature in the enclosure. The way I run mine, which seems to keep my leopard happy, is to have an automatic timer that turns the lamp on, and the UTH off, in the morning, and the lamp off and the UTH on at night. This maintains an appropriate temperature range while also giving the gecko a good day/night cycle. Your mileage may vary on this depending on the ambient temperature in your house/apartment, so please get a thermometer in the tank (preferably a digital that you can just leave there to get a constant read of what's going on) and actually measure the temperature - this will let you determine what is best for your situation. They need the warm end to be at around 88-90 degrees F during the day, obviously getting a bit cooler at night.

>>I was also wondering if it's a problem to add leopards into the same tank with each other after one has come accustomed to being alone. I would like to get two more leopards, but I don't want to do this until I can find out if mine is male or female, to avoid fights and otherwise unwanted problems.
>>

In general, as long as there is enough space (say, around 10 gallons/lizard, with the limit probably being 3 of them in 20 gallon if you have a lot of vertical structure so they can all have their own 'personal space'), you should be ok, but never more than one male per enclosure, as they WILL fight. Also, I'd generally avoid putting males and females together unless you're prepared to deal with and then find homes for lots of little geckos. Also, when adding any new lizards, always quarantine new animals for at least a month to prevent the spread of disease/parasites, and then carefully watch how the new animals interact with the old. If anybody is being significantly aggressive toward anybody else, you'll need to separate them. Finally, you need to make sure that they are all getting food. If one is dominating another and/or is significantly bigger than another, that one may prevent the other from getting any food.

>>I have 3 different kinds of calcium..is UVB needed for leos as it is for tortoises indoors? Also, can I still supplement their food with TRex products?
>>

There are several products from T-Rex for leopards, and I actually use the leopard gecko dust from them to dust the crickets for mine. Works out just fine for me. As far as UVB goes, you'll get many different answers from many different people on this. Leopards are nocturnal, so theoretically they don't need it. However, I have seen them become more 'perky' and eat more when given a full-spectrum bulb during the day.

>>Lastly, is it okay to use black-light, or other non-light bulbs for viewing reasons, or will this bother the leo too much?
>>

My understanding is that a red light will not bother them at all, and I think, but am not completely certain, that a blacklight is ok too.

>>Thanks for the help everyone!

No problem, and my last bit of advice is that you should probably pick up a copy of the Leopard Gecko Manual by Philippe de Vosjoli. It's inexpensive, informative, and will tell you the vast majority of what you need to know to keep your new pet happy, and for anything you can't find in there, or just need to know right away without digging through a book, you've already found a good resource in this forum.
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0.1 Albino Leopard Gecko - Tigger
0.1 Crested Gecko - Pooh-Bear

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