Sue, my wildlife facility rescues many burms and other constrictors (and, well, all kinds of herps including venomous). I'd be happy to talk to you off line about any ongoing questions or concerns that you have but here are a few important items:
1) No matter how healthy the burm looks, make sure it is kept in a completely separate room away from your established collection. Many rescued burms have mild or severe cases of RI (Respiratory Illness); this can be quite contagious.
2) I always recommend to get a new rescue checked by a qualified herp vet. If that isn't possible, just make sure you follow strict quarantine procedures (always work with the snake last). Spend time observing its behaviors and making sure you don't hear any "gurgling" types of noises that could be a sign of RI.
3) Any new rescue automatically gets treated for mites even if I don't see any. We use Pro Product's Provent-A-Mite to treat the cage and the snake. I will usually leave the snake in a pillow case that is sprayed with POM (according to directions) and then placed in a large plastic storage bin that has also been treated on the inside. One treatment will usually do the trick but I also apply the spray to the cage which will stay effective for 30 days. It's good preventative "medicine". There's nothing worse than dealing with a full blown mite outbreak.
4) Keep new burms in optimal temps. We keep a 24 hour constant thermal gradient that ranges from 82 deg F on the cool side to the upper 80's on the warm side with a basking spot of 92-95 deg F on that same warm end. Additionally, we try to maintain optimal humidity levels at around 75-85% (w/out restricting good air flow). These two ingredient will not only prevent RI but if a snake has it, the optimal environment will help it to fight it off.
5) KNOW YOUR LIMITATIONS. Burms are not ball pythons. Use strict safety measures which means having at least one more person with you when you are working with the burm. Additionally, only feed the burm inside its own cage...in my opinion, that's an absolute of responsible "big snake keeping". Regardless of what others might say, feed inside the cage (those who say otherwise don't know what the heck they are talking about). Get yourself some long tongs from www.tongs.com They sell great tongs and these should always be used when feeding your burm DEAD prey (a 10' burm can take small rabbits w/out any problems...www.rodentpro.com is a great source). I would also recommend getting a sturdy hook; not for lifting, but for using to keep the head away while you have to take the burm out of its enclosure. Homemade shields can be used too (even a big broom will work in a pinch to place between your hand and the burm's head). Once out of the cage, most burms are very docile.
6) Make sure the cage is VERY sturdy and secure that can be locked.
Your ball pythons will do just fine in smaller enclosure. I have a 40 year old burm that I have had almost my entire life who has lived in a cage comparable to a 40 gallon tank (but made for snakes).
Hope this helps a bit.
Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center
Lake Forest, IL
>>the local huamne society has one that came in as a "stray" over the weekend. I have ball pythons and a corn snake. I realize this would be a creature of a different color to say the least but am interested. It looked fairly healthy- shiny and not thin, and seemed fairly doclie although I didnt hold it completely. It is a good 10 ft long already and Id guess 6" in diameter. Ive got a 6 ft by 3 ft by 2 ft that the balls are in and am wondering if I could keep the burm in there and move the balls around. Other option is building for the burm. I've read on line for a couple hours now- but was hoping for some direct conversation with current owners.
>>
>>thanks
>>Sue S
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Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, IL
