Reptile & Amphibian Forums

This thing looks pretty nice. Kind of spendy, but peice of mind is worth a few bucks to me. How well do you folks think this heater would work in a Boa room? Some opinions would be nice before I dish out the coin. I like the fact that it will not dry out the room, it's even heat distribution, and will not start a fire.

http://www.edenpureheater.com/product_info.php

jason
Link

Personally,I wouldn't spend anywhere near that on a single unit that operated on the "forced air" type heating principal.(if you ever wanted to use a pulse proportional thermostat,it won't work with heaters that have (fan) motors.)My day job(s)have given me quite a bit of experience with both electricity,and enviromental control,and I would recommend going with the "oil filled-radiant heat" type heaters...they seem to be a little better designed each year,most not only come with thermostatic control,but several models I've seen also incorporate built in timers,which can also be useful with breeding season temperature regimens...you could probably buy 4-5 nice units for the price of the one you're considering...I have a fairly large snake-room,and I use two,one for the primary room,controled by a Helix T-stat.and one for the nursery,or "baby room",which often runs on "low" while the primary room is allowed to drop at night....anyway,just my two-cents...best of luck with whatever you choose.
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HarlequinBoa.com Captive born excellence through applied genetic theory...and,astute observations based on a keen sense of the sometimes painfully obvious

that a proportional stat would NOT work with an oil filled heater. Not true, eh? It seems that most folks use the on/off variety with their room heaters. A proportional would definately be better, imho.
The main appeal the edenpure holds for me is the way it does not dry up the room, and it's in no way a fire hazard. Tough decisions.. I will probably use an oil filled because of the coin.
Do you use the room heater exclusively for providing seasonality?
Or, do you program your hot spots too?
Thanks for the info..

jas
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Jason Dowell

sounddjinn@yahoo.com

Things always get cloudy, just before transformation.

(1500 watts)that was meant to work with these types of heaters,(anything that has a fan motor needs an "on/off" type control rather than pulse,or rheostat.)...actually,when my schedule permits,I use the timer method combined with the dial thermostat on the unit.(partially because it forces me to actually go in and check on ambient,and specific spot temps.daily.)I use the heaters for total control,and usually the only secondary heat source is a strip of flex-watt that runs 24-7 durring the colder months,underneath every stack of cages that actually sit on the (concrete)floor,the cages higher in the stack get no substrate heat until later,towards the end of cycling,or somebody ovulates.( ) I usually shoot for between 73/88 for NTL/DTH for a period of three months.I'm always looking for better ways to get the best results,but now I avoid sudden,or drastic alterations in the "system".(*lol*) I know some people say "no need to cycle",but I swear by it!
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HarlequinBoa.com Captive born excellence through applied genetic theory...and,astute observations based on a keen sense of the sometimes painfully obvious

I am on the same page as Tim I have two snake rooms a baby/yearling room and then my main room where all the action happens. I use the oil filed radiator heaters controlled by a Ranco and it works out fine, I have used this system for the past two years and it works great. Good caging also helps with heating problems as well. I have Habitat Systems baby racks with the insulated backs that push the heat through the rack. At first I really didn't believe in the insulated back until I got a rack that didn't have it and boy the insulated back makes a difference. I wouldn't spend all that money on that fancy heater.

Al Brown/Brown's Boas

;D
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Jason Dowell

sounddjinn@yahoo.com

Things always get cloudy, just before transformation.