Reptile & Amphibian Forums

i was wondering if anyone uses them and what they like and dislike about them?

Adam
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3.5 THAYERI
1.2 SPLENDIDA (1.0 ALBINO/ 0.2 HYPO)
1.3 ALTERNA

0.1.1 pyxie
0.0.2 horned frogs

There is always a trade off. For thayeri they are great. Lightweight and heating is not a problem with two heat cords despite the ventilation. The downfall is the ability to hold humidity (not a problem with thayeri) and the lack of privacy with light exposing all sides. I've grown to like them for what they offer. Easy to break down and roll around. The model you see can hold 20 boxes sliding out by the side or ten how you see them or any combination.

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2.4 E. prasina
3.3 L. m. thayeri
1.1 A. stimsoni
1.1 C. t. roseofusca
1.2 L. t. gaigeae

My religion consists of a humble admiration of the illimitable superior spirit who reveals himself in the slight details we are able to perceive with our frail and feeble mind.- Albert Einstein

1754/1756 model the more expensive frame comes with more back/side stops but the tubs are interchangable.

Thanks,

i am looking into the cb70 model right now, they are running around 600, someone i know has one but she keep Ball morphs in them and i wanted a king keepers opinion, thanks again

Adam
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3.5 THAYERI
1.2 SPLENDIDA (1.0 ALBINO/ 0.2 HYPO)
1.3 ALTERNA

0.1.1 pyxie
0.0.2 horned frogs

and racks. I recently bought 2 racks from them and couldn't be happier. Easy to erect and well made light weight. The tolerances are great. Takes 3 weeks to get them...the only negative.

I too was looking at the Vision racks but ultimately passed them up due to the fact that all sides were open. Snakes are secretive by nature.

Russ

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>>I too was looking at the Vision racks but ultimately passed them up due to the fact that all sides were open. Snakes are secretive by nature.
>>

The open visions racks are made with groves on the sides of each shelve so that a thin melamine or veneer piece can be slid into it making the sides solid. I’m sure Scott from Vision can explain it better. But it is part of the design in an effort to keep everyone happy. They are incredibly lightweight.
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Rick
Never Enough
Reptiles

I have definatly looked into AP cages but i think i like th vision design better, i wish i could just build my own but i have no tools, soooo that is out of the question. what model do you have for the AP rack? an how much was it if you dont mind me asking, aso how many snakes does it hold?

Adam

here is a picture of my reptile room in CO, now that i am in VT it is differnt but you get the idea of what i am doing now with out a rack, plus the collection doesnt have corns anymore but more thayeri

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3.5 THAYERI
1.2 SPLENDIDA (1.0 ALBINO/ 0.2 HYPO)
1.3 ALTERNA

0.1.1 pyxie
0.0.2 horned frogs

yes racks would do you alot of good. I bought one that holds 7 32qt sterilite boxes and one that holds a combo of 7-32qt or 14-15qt boxes. With shipping and boxes (you buy on line) I paid a total of 730.00 bones. It was a worthwhile investment. I like the Vision too and actually own a stack (5) of 4 foot vision cages for my pits. Those are pretty cool.

I do like the flexibility of the Vision racks heating and how you can add more heat or less heat depending on the speices of snake you are keeping in them.

Russ

i just wanna make sure i spend my buck as wisely as possible, i mean what i do works but something else would work much much better.

Adam
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3.5 THAYERI
1.2 SPLENDIDA (1.0 ALBINO/ 0.2 HYPO)
1.3 ALTERNA

0.1.1 pyxie
0.0.2 horned frogs

very cool...didn't know that either...he should advertise that capability more.

I have a friend who checked them out at the Tinley Park show and he called them "garbage." Seemed pretty strong talk to me since this guy uses Vision cages and seems to like them okay. When I asked for particulars he just said he didn't like the cheap plastic construction.

My feelings are that in a colder environment, and for keeping snakes that need higher temperatures like boids, you're going to be losing a lot of heat to the surrounding air with that open design. Also,don't you think it's got to be unsettling for a snake to be exposed on all sides, like they would be in these racks?

Something else to consider if you've not already checked them out, but Reptile Basics makes an excellent rack system (with back heat via 11-inch flexwatt), tubs included, and 3/8-inch PVC construction. Prices are hard to beat, they ship immediately, and they are stackable. They've got a sale going until Nov. 5th. Here's a link:

http://www.reptilebasics.com/store/home.php?cat=251

Cheers,

Bob

first of all it is a very nice rack, and the price is amazing, but i feel that the tubs might be alittle small for an adult king, i keep them in 34Lx16Wx6h tubs right now, and i really dont wanna chop their space down too much, what Are the spec of the tubs that you use for adults,

Thanks for the link

Adam
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3.5 THAYERI
1.2 SPLENDIDA (1.0 ALBINO/ 0.2 HYPO)
1.3 ALTERNA

0.1.1 pyxie
0.0.2 horned frogs

Adam:

The dimensions for their STC-410 tubs are 16 x 11 1/2 x 4 (high). This is probably a bit small for larger adult mexicanas, but fine for smaller ones. These snakes spend most of their time underground or in crevices, so height is not as critical as it might be for other colubrids. The next size up (23 3/4 x 16 1/8 x 6 [ht]) is sweater-box size, and certainly offers more space. If you don't have a boatload of animals and aren't terribly concerned with the overall footprint of the unit, then the bigger tubs are probably your best bet. I use a mix of these, plus a custom-made hatchling rack. Boaphile also makes a very nice "sideways" box rack (http://www.boaphileplastics.com/rhinoraxx_five_sideways_sterilite.html), but it's more expensive. Tub dimenions on those (Sterilite 1756) is 23 1/8 x 16 x 6 3/8 (very similar to the Reptile Basics unit). I hope to add a couple of those soon.

Cheers,

Bob

Thanks for getting back to me. yeah i wish i could afford boaphile, if i could i would do everything that way. my main concern is really space for the snakes, i like to give them as much as i possibly can. i know 90% of the time they are sitting in their hides but i always wanna make sure that when they need to stretch out they can, i know i would want to if that was the case for me... but the first link you send, the price is so good i think i would get one for my juvies anyway till they can get into the vision (or big enough to utilize the space of that big tub. once again thanks for all the info definatly a huge help seeing that site

Adam
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3.5 THAYERI
1.2 SPLENDIDA (1.0 ALBINO/ 0.2 HYPO)
1.3 ALTERNA
1.1 CAL KING (1.0 ALB.LAVENDER/0.1 BLIZZARD)
0.0.1 HOLD BACK RUNT ALBINO CORN
0.1.1 pyxie
0.0.2 horned frogs

They are really nice for sub-adults. And they ship right out.

I was just looking at those Reptile Basics racks and they do seem like a pretty good option. If I was going to buy some racks that's probably the route I would go.

Having said that. You might want to revisit the option of building your own. Home Depot has this Model # C-20 rack/shelf with precut indiviual A-50 shelves. Don't be intimidated. This thing took way less effort than setting up the average kids "Hot Wheels" set. Earlier this summer I built a hatchling rack for about $70.00. This thing was a cinch to build and the only tool you need is a drill and maybe a tape measure. Really you don't have to measure much because you just use your boxes to determine where the next shelf goes.

You can buy a pretty nice cordless drill for $30-50.

Everything is precut. You can actully build it for less $$$ too. Mine cost $70.00 because I had so many shelves. The A-50 shelves are about $17 for three. You can build yours to fit the size containers you choose. And you can mix different size boxes too. Mine holds 27 shoe boxes. I would guess that this rack would hold about 12 -14 boot boxes. I don't think it will work for sweater boxes because its only 14.5 inches deep. Home Depot may have one that's deeper.

The nice thing about this rack is that you can build it to suit. Assemble the sides and the bottom shelf. Place one (or two or three) of your boxes on the shelf. Put the next shelf on top of the box(s). Check for fit, not to tight not to loose. Screw shelf in place. Repeat the steps working your way up until complete. You might even be able to use your existing boxes.

Here's mine. Call me if you have questions or just want to talk about it. BTW your snake was in the forth shelf down middle box.

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Vichris

Vichris Variables

Do you have heat tape, or rope running at the back of the shelves? What kind of tape/rope works best in your opinion. I've never had to deal with that before, but if I decide to invest in a rack, or two I'll need to know. Don't some racks come with the heat source already in place? Just wondering.

Ken

Zoo Med makes a product called "Repti Heat cable". Thats what I use. I used my router to make a grove in my primary rack and then laid the repti heat cable on each shelf. I then used foil tape over the groove so the boxes would slide in and out without catching. My hatchling rack is in my den so its mostly heated by just my furnace but I did run the repti heat cable just in the back of each shelf to provide extra heat if they want it. They seem to stay on the cooler side of the boxes most of the time.
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Vichris

Vichris Variables

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