Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I've always wanted one, I've worked with them many times before, but I want to do some research first. Now, this is my first snake, though not my first Herp, I've had an iguana. Can anyone give me a brief list of what I need?

Welcome to the world of corns!!! Be careful, they can be addicting LOL!!

Caging will depend on age/size of the corn. Hatchlings and most juvies up to one year old can be housed in a shoebox sized container. I like the critter keeper type cages simply because they are clear, and the lids snap on well for the most part. You can get one of the taller models if you want to add a branch or small plant. Sometimes the new babies prefer smaller cages to feel secure and find food and water. Small adults to animals up to three feet can be kept in 27-quart sized sweater box container, or even a 10 gallon aquarium. The general rule of thumb for container size is that half the perimeter of the container should be as long as the snake. So, something like a 10 gallon tank that is 20x10 would house a 30 inch snake. A 24x17 inch sweater box could house a 41 inch snake. Whatever you use, make sure the lid is secure!! Add a small hide(I use toilet paper rolls for babies, flat boxes for larger animals). They like to get scrunched in to them and feel secure. You can heat one side of the container with an undertank heater if your room temps are too cool. Just make sure its not too hot. Regular heating pads work well set on low and placed under about 1/3 the container bottom for larger cages. These regular heating pads are too large for smaller cages, but work. Just dont set the whole cage on top of it. I would NOT use hot rocks or exposed light bulbs in the cages. If you have other herps, then you know the guidelines on heating. They must be able to choose a warmer or cooler side and not cause burns to the animals.

I have used aspen and pine shaving for my corns with good results. Newpaper works well also.

Most captive bred corns on the market take frozen/thawed mice of appropriate size. Fed prey about 1 to 1.5 times the size of the largest girth of the snake.

Provide a non-tipping water container on the cool side and enjoy!!!

THanks a ot ofr the info, my main worry is that it gets out and eats my rats(I breed them for pets not feeders) and I did want to feed them feeder mice(frozen) so they wouldnt know the taste of rats. So do you think they wouldnt be able to get out of the critter keepers?

Well, they can get out of any caging if not checked, secured, etc. You have to watch the little trap door at the top of most critter keepers. Sometimes they dont snap all the way in if you are not carefull, or wear out a bit if used all the time and won't snap down as tight. Still, they are more reliable than a plastic shoebox IMO.

Most captive bred corns feed on frozen thawed mice. Even a new born rat pink would be too big for a new hatchling corn. Most adult corns can eat small rats, and maybe a few exceptionally huge male corns could eat medium rats comfortably. I have maintained hatchlings into adult hood on mice only and have never had to resort to rats. However, be careful when handling your rats, then your snake!!! If they smell the rat odor on you they will go for it!!!

A full grown breeder rat could probably easily kill even an adult cornsnake if the snake got out and crawled into their cage prowling for food!!!!! The snake might get away with eating a nest of rat pinks, but I would bet the momma would get it pretty quick in the defensive mode to protect her babies. A hatchling snake in a rat cage would probably be viewed as a snack to the weanling and older rats!!!!

Check out any one of our web sites. I think some of us have a list of what you would need, or at least basic info including links to care sheets. kingsnake. com has a care sheet here on this site.
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****Misty****

www.sneakyserpents.com

"Time flies when you can't remember what you did yesterday!"

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