Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I just purchased a Helix DBS-1000 to control flexwatt for a single tank housing my Boa constrictor.

It's a rather large tank (4' x 18" base) and tall. Anyway, I'm planning to lift tank off of stand, drill hole in stand (using a hole saw) for the power cable, then -

layer of foil tape
flexwatt
layer of foil tape

As far as the thermostat goes, I *really* want to keep it in the stand under the tank. I have an indoor/outdoor thermometer in the tank giving me warm/cool temps, so once adjusted - I don't need to see the Helix unit.

The lead is not long enough to have the unit in the cabinet under the tank and have the sensor in the tank. However, I'm wondering if it would be effective to put the Helix thermostat lead on top of the top flexwatt foil layer (thus under the tank). This would allow the Helix unit to be in the cabinet out of sight, no wires would need to come out of the tank, and it would prevent the snake from catching on the thermostat wire and dragging it to some place less effective (causing overheating).

I know that since there will be an air gap between the flexwatt and tank bottom, it is possible the tank bottom won't be at the temperature listed on the Helix unit - but that's what the in tank thermometer is for, no? If I need to set the Helix to a degree warmer to achieve target temp inside tank, so what? There is enough clearance between the glass bottom and the stand that it won't crush the sensor.

Is there going to be a functional problem from putting the thermostat lead between the flexwatt and the tank bottom?

Thanks,

FunkyRes
-----
3.0 WC; 0.3 CB L. getula californiae
1.0 CB L. getula nigrita
0.1.1 WC; 0.0.3 CH Elgaria multicarinata multicarinata

I do that with most of my flexwatt applications. Use the stat to control the temp of the flexwatt, not the actual cage temp.

Two things, foil tape and probe I've been told is not good, the foil tape can act like a antenna and induce false readings? Heard tht from Jeff at Helix.

Second, make sure you secure the probe adequately so it won't move. Use non metalic tape.
-----
Thanks,

Dave Colling

www.rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com

0.1 Wife (WC)
0.2 kids (CBB, selectively bred from good stock)

LOL, to many snakes to list, last count:
12.24 BRB
11.13 BCI
And those are only the breeders

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

Thanks. Maybe what I'll do is just use the foil tape underneath as planned, and then with the sides of the flexwatt to secure it - and then use electrical tape to keep the probe in place.
-----
3.0 WC; 0.3 CB L. getula californiae
1.0 CB L. getula nigrita
0.1.1 WC; 0.0.3 CH Elgaria multicarinata multicarinata

Why not just use electrical tape for eveything?

But, yes, set the thermostat to control the flex-watt, not the inside of the cage. If I want a 90 degree hot spot in my bins in my racks, I set the thermostat to 95, with the probe lying on the tape. Once the heat reached the bin and through the substrate there is a 5 degree drop (also the tape is recessed in the shelf).

I do know you can get longer probes for the thermostat. Un-screwing the back panel will show a small plug at the end of the probe, the probe just plugs right into the housing of the thermostat.

I want foil tape between the wood and the flexwatt because as a shiny surface, it will reflect heat. Just like a reflector behind a UVB light increases the UVB that reaches a lizard.

Also - my experience with electrical tape - when it gets warm, it isn't very goot at holding object in place. It can probably hold ther thermostat wire in place, but I'm not confident it would keep a piece of flexwatt from shifting over time. I am going to staple the wiring, so there shouldn't be any pull on the flexwatt, but I'm just a lot more confident about the foil tape actually holding it in place. I don't want to staple the flexwatt (I could - I'm using the 17" stuff and there is plenty place to) because I want it to be relatively easy to replace if/when it starts to fail.

Foil tape is what was recommended to me for holding it in place, and for placing under the flexwatt to increase the efficiency.
-----
3.0 WC; 0.3 CB L. getula californiae
1.0 CB L. getula nigrita
0.1.1 WC; 0.0.3 CH Elgaria multicarinata multicarinata

Low wattage Flexwatt works like a radiant heat,its steady so theres no need to try and focus or direct its performance.Just tape it down with foil tape and allow ¼" air gap between it and the cage floor.I wouldnt support the use of staples to secure power supplies either.Crimping hot wire isnt a good thing No !!

M/

>>Foil tape is what was recommended to me for holding it in place, and for placing under the flexwatt to increase the efficiency.
>>-----
>>3.0 WC; 0.3 CB L. getula californiae
>>1.0 CB L. getula nigrita
>>0.1.1 WC; 0.0.3 CH Elgaria multicarinata multicarinata

The staples I am using are intended for the purpose. They are "U" shaped where they go into the wood around the wire, not flat like a paper staple, and you lightly tap them in with a small hammer. They only hold the wire in its intended route, and are not tapped in so tight that you can't move the wire. You often see them holding the wire in place on the back of china cabinets that have built in lighting.
-----
3.0 WC; 0.3 CB L. getula californiae
1.0 CB L. getula nigrita
0.1.1 WC; 0.0.3 CH Elgaria multicarinata multicarinata

Oh, and btw - radiant heat can be reflected or absorbed. Shiny surface will reflect, dull surface will absorb. Hence putting foil tape under the flexwatt.
-----
3.0 WC; 0.3 CB L. getula californiae
1.0 CB L. getula nigrita
0.1.1 WC; 0.0.3 CH Elgaria multicarinata multicarinata

Just a couple thoughts. A 4' x 18" base cage is not a large cage for a boa, it's actually too small for an adult. The average boa needs at least 4' X 2' cage (that's the 'footprint') as a minumum, some need a 6' X 2' cage.
Boas don't usually care how tall a cage is either because after they are no longer little they usually stop climbing.
One more thing, aquariums are notoriously bad cages for boas in so far as keeping in heat and humidity.

Caden

Just a couple thoughts. A 4' x 18" base cage is not a large cage for a boa, it's actually too small for an adult. The average boa needs at least 4' X 2' cage (that's the 'footprint') as a minumum, some need a 6' X 2' cage.

That may be the case. It is a 3 year old male, about six feet long. I took it in as a foster. Once it is tame (he bites), switched to f/t from live, and gets a clean bill of health - I'll be finding a new home for him. I took him only because his cage w/ stand came supplied with him - she needed to get rid of him.

Boas don't usually care how tall a cage is either because after they are no longer little they usually stop climbing.

I'm aware. I didn't buy the cage for him.

One more thing, aquariums are notoriously bad cages for boas in so far as keeping in heat and humidity.

Some of that can be solved by insulating three sides, and making a wood cover that sits over the screen top covering most of it.

When he is adopted, I'm keeping the cage and stand - it's a nice piece of furniture for a display cage. I'm seriously contemplating using it for some Baja (aka Cape) Gopher Snakes - which don't have the same heat requirement as a Boa. No, they don't need the height either - but it doesn't hurt, and allows for nice sized manzanita decoration, even if it *is* just decoration and not used for climbing.

The potential adopter is going to need to have an adequate cage for him, unless I find one used cheap enough before then.

As gorgeous as Boas are, I personally prefer smaller snakes. He's just a foster. A beautiful foster, but a foster.
-----
3.0 WC; 0.3 CB L. getula californiae
1.0 CB L. getula nigrita
0.1.1 WC; 0.0.3 CH Elgaria multicarinata multicarinata

I totally understand, it great that you rescued him. Good luck finding a home for him.
caden