Reptile & Amphibian Forums

i am building a 4x8x2 cage for my albino burm.is it ok to use butt joints instead of rabiting out the joints?

>>i am building a 4x8x2 cage for my albino burm.is it ok to use butt joints instead of rabiting out the joints?

Yes, but what is the carcass being constructed with? So long as you seal the interior edge with silicone any joint will work if constructed properly.

I would also like to recommend changes in you dimensions, if you are open to discussion.

IMO an 8' cage is a beast of a cage to move, exspecially at 4' in heigth I assume you mean height for 4'. If 4' is the depth I recommend shortening the distance so you want have to get in the cage for cleaning.

30" is about as far as I can reach I would consider that to be the max depth on anything but a walk in cage.

Also if 4' again is your depth, a 2' tall cage is small really small after litter dams your window will be close to 15" trying to clean a 4' deep cage through a 15" window will be a nightmare, not to mention a hazard with such a large snake in the cage.

Now some people remove the animal for cleanings but when we are talking about a 15' long animal that can be come a pain. Not to mention when the animal deficates along the back wall liteally a ton of fecal material. You will appriciate a taller cage.

In general I myself and a few others consider the 30" tall the min and 30" in depth to be the max, for large constrictor cages. Again for everything but walk in.

Also unless your space dosen't allow a longer cage 8' is relatively short in length, but a beast at the same time. I recommend building two smaller cages and bolting them together to make one larger cage. Something like 2 - 30"H x 30"D x 60"L cages bolted together will make a very nice 10' cage for a large adult Burmese, it wil be a dream.

Not only is easier to build move and construct the two smaller cages but it will also save on materials if you cut and measure everything just right. While at the same time giving you that much more of a cage.

Good Luck
-----
Jeremy

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow RTB's
1.1 Hypomelenistic RTB's
0.2 Pastel Hypo RTB's
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino RTB's
0.1 Suriname RTB
0.1 Anerthrystic RTB
0.0.10 Red Bearded Dragons
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.2 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
1.0 Child -coming soon-

I agree with Jeremy about dimensions.

I recently adopted two BCCs. They came with two homemade cages - one 5x2x2 and one 7x3x2.

The 5x2x2 was managable to move into our house. The 7x3x2, however, would not fit in any of our doors (on end or otherwise) because its length and depth made it impossible to navigate around corners. So we had to discard it. Keep that in mind if you think you might ever have to move. You might want to build a modular cage that you can break down if you have to move it.
-----
Lauren Madar
www.ophidiagems.com
1.1 Hog Island Boas
1.1 Hypo BCI
0.1 Sorong-type GTP
1.0 Normal Ball Python
1.1 Surinam BCC

I agree. 4' is too deep, if that's what you mean. I used to keep a few large pythons and my rule of thumb was a cage that I could reach the back of without sticking my head/torso inside. The one exception was a walk-in cage.
-----
Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Jave local (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

1.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Celebes locale (Black & Tan)

I wouldnt build one without rabiting (sp?) the joints. If you have access to a biscuit jointer you could go that route. They are very handy tools.