Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have a GBK which i have had for about 2 and a half months. I tried all of the feeding tricks to get it to eat but it refused to show any interest. I have been forcefeeding mice tails for a while. My question is how do you find out if a snake has parasites or worms? Is there anyway besides dropping a fecal sample off at a vet? It has not grown much since i have had it. I care about my snake but i would rather not take it to a vet if there is nothing wrong with it. Is there a way I can check on my own? All suggestions welcomed,thanks.

Try really heating up one corner of the cage....make sure you do not over heat the entire cage....but give it some extra heat and try a live pinky. Parasites are usually suspect when the snakes poop is wrong looking or extra foul smelling. Some babies just take a long time to feed voluntarily while others eat right after their first shed. Forcefeeding is stressful...try some live offerings for a week or two. Somce have used the bottled lizard scent drops with success,...I guess that is also worth a shot
Tom Stevens
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TomsSnakes.com

Thanks ill try offering another live pinky. I have even offered it small lizards and frogs before with no sucess so this is why i thought she might be sick. The warm side of her cage is heated well with hides on both sides. She seems to be terrified with an food I offer her and when I leave her alone with it in a deli cup or bag she just gets as far as possible from it. She just seems to have no feeding response at all. I waited a long time(a month and a half) before resorting to forcefeeding. If anyone else has any ideas, please tell me.

I have 06 hatchlings left of a few types of snakes and occasionally I will leave a f/t pinky or live one in for longer than 24 hours. I can not tell you how many times I am about to remove one that is looking pretty rough and the snake will suddenly crawl over and eat it. I also have a few snakes right now that are just not showing any interest in food, some have shed 2 times since hatching....they appear to be in good health...so I patiently wait it out. It is very rare for me to have a snake perish from refusing to feed, most come around when they're good and ready. One option you have to consider is cooling your snake for a few weeks to mimic brumation. Some snakes respond strongly to food offered after being warmed back up. Tom Stevens
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TomsSnakes.com

Thanks I don't think I can get the temperatures low enough but if i can I will try this. Exactly how low do the temps need to be and what is the minimum amount of time i can brumate her?

I think extreme temps are in no way neccesary, in the case of a hatchling I think 60-65 for 4 weeks may indeed be adequate. It may also help to keep the snake in darkness during this time. Have you been offering food and leaving it in over night? Some snakes prefer to feed only at night time. I am putting a new title in the subject line of your thread now to see if anyone else recomends a longer cooling...honestly[ knock on wood] I have never had to do it. Tom Stevens
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TomsSnakes.com

The book Understanding Reptile Parasites has good ill. of what to look for. I got my microscope from greatscopes.

What type of lizards are you offering? Also, you said you used all the tricks.. what have you tried exactly?

~ Mike

I have tried all of the tricks which i have been told.. I have tried washing them, braining them, scenting with lizard maker and anoles and house gechoes, tuna juice, and chicken broth, leaving them in a bag or deli cup for 24 hours, giving them a lizard(anoles, house gechoes, and swifts. All items are appropriatly sized and i have tried the techniques with both live and frozen thawed. When i put it in front of its face it doesnt have interest or tries to use i to climb on and then smells it and jumps back like she is scared of them. I asked a local reptile store and the owner said he had had the same problem and gave me a small frog he said his took and sold it to me for stock price. I believe you gave me some information on this before which gave me some good ideas on what to try but she won't take anything.

This is the one from LLL right??? I still think you should ask them to trade for a feeder or credit toward another animal.

What you need to do if you want to save this hatchling is hibernate it for a few weeks. I know that you tried to do this but aborted because you do not have a spot in your home that gets cool enough. But, at this point it is really your only option.

Bring the snake to a friend or family members house that has a spot that gets cool for a few weeks. When the snake comes out of hibernation there is a very good change it will feed.

~ Mike Russo

I agree with Tom and Mike, try to brumate. I had a small gbk that wouldn't feed but it slayed 2 cnemidophorus and I am putting it down if no pinks go this time. Might try a skink first. If the cage is warm, it is using energy. If it is cool even low 60's it is conserving energy. Gbk's like to eat in darkness and in tight spaces. My .02.
Todd Hughes

Tails are extremely non nutricious. They are also almost entirely cartilage/bone making them very hard to digest. If possible I would force feed pinky heads. Or best option, get a pinky pump.

Not that I have anything to back this up with... but I think that snakes who are forcefed only tails may be constipated / have upset stomachs from it hence making it even tougher to get them feeding.

Has the animal ever eaten on its own? Maybe before you aquired it?

I have tried force feeding pinky heads which was only succesful once. Usually when i try the object i use to press the pinky goes through the pinky head and i am afraid I am going to hurt the snake. I am not sure if getting a pinky pump would be large because I only have one snake an I have heard they should only be used by expierienced snake keepers which I am not. Do you think it would be wise to get one? I bought the snake from lll reptiles and they do not keep records. If you have any suggestions it would be appreciated.

I don't know what methods you have tried to get him to eat but I have always found that washing a freshly killed pinky will often get them to take it.

If that doesn't work then at this point if I were you I would try cooling.

I think your snake is seriously stressed out by all of the activity. Cool him and keep him in the dark for a few weeks like the post above describe. When you warm him up offer him a tiny freshly killed and rinsed pinky at night. Just put it in with him and leave.

I know that getting heads into these little guys can be very tricky. As far as pinky pumps go... You can easily learn to use one, visit the barkers website (vpi) for a detailed instruction guide with pics. They usually can be found for about $29. Better then the price of a new snake...

After you've gone through all that trouble I would definately contact LLL, and tell them your problem. If they are any kind of reputable business they will make it right to you. Obviously to me they sold it to you as a non feeder. With you having that much problem getting it to eat I have a hard time believing it ever ate before it left there. I have dealt with them before, and I had a good experience, but every transaction is different. If you still have your receipt you may have to email them a copy. These other guys are right. Usually they will start feeding when they are ready, but sometimes I believe you get one that just plain doesn't have any feeding responce, and there is nothing you can do about it. Force feeding for a long period can get them dependant on it, but if that's how you have to keep her alive then you have to do it. I have a friend that got a baby snake in over a year ago, and she still has to force feed it. Anyway, contact LLL, and see what they will do for you. I hope everything works out.
Ken

Ken, I have tried the method in your pictures and only reccommend it for experienced keepers, and I prefer to use a smaller hand, preferably someone elses'! j/k
Todd Hughes

Scott, I thought that was a snake on your floor! Wow do I feel retarded. Hmm the famous Lampro Belto. Haha...I'm done now.
Sam

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Love snakes, the morph the merrier.

1.0 normal ball python Nicodemus
0.2 albino banana kings Dora and Queen
1.0 albino banded king Ace
and more to come...

Force feeding is very stressful and in my opinion does more harm than good. Either the snake will eat or it will die. Be patient. Put the snake in a deli cup in a dark closet for a week or two, then drop a live pinkie in without disturbing the snake and leave it in for 24 hours. If he doesn't eat DON'T mess with him and try again in a few days. My guess is the snake is stressed as hell. Just relax and take your time. Force feeding is never an option in my snake room.
Good luck,
Jason

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Jason L. Dobry
Research Associate
College of Veterinary Medicine
Department of Veterinary Comparative Anatomy, Pharmacology and Physiology
Washington State University

Hi,

I often feed tails to reluctant baby kings. They are easy to use in assist feeding. I cut the tail on an angle and once you get the end in the snakes mouth, they usually swallow on their own. This way I don't have to really stress the animal out by actually force feeding it. Usually after two or three meals of tails, the snake accepts a thawed pinky left over night in its cage. It may not be super nutritious, but it has enough to get the baby going and kick starting its appetite. It has worked very well for me over the years. Also, in my experience, they tend to pass the small amount of waste from a tail meal very easily. Thanks.

Will

Your right, a few times is usually no problem and its the easiest way to go. But if he has been doing this for a few months there are better ways to force feed over the long term.

First, dont just cut off either adult rat/mouse tails as there really isnt much fat there to get the digestive tract going and often they get passed out just about the same way they came in. Second, Dont use frozen if you can help it. Third, if you have to use f/t, make sure to soak them thoroughly beforehand(either water or even egg yolk works). Lastly, the best tails are from "fuzzy/hopper"size rodents as these tend to store a greater quantity of fat there. These are used to kick start the appetite not replace regular feedings. There is no harm feeding a baby snake more than one appropriate size tail at a sitting. Too many breeders try and substitute one big tail for several smaller(easier to digest)ones and this takes a toll on the babies. I have not lost a single baby snake this year using these techniques.Jeff

I said np

Good advice Jeff, however, I often use frozen/thawed mouse tails and have never experienced a problem. Thanks.

Will

Thanks guys for helping me. lll won't give me credit because I don't have the receit anymore. I am hoping the temps will be low enough soon since they have been dropping a lot lately and it's only going to get colder. also what are the minimum and maximum temps for brumating?

Does anyone know where I can find a cheap and easy to use pinky pump?

Try The Beanfarm, they're listed on this site Tom Stevens
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TomsSnakes.com