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First time buyer. let me know.

tattoovt Nov 14, 2006 03:12 AM

Hi,
I am going to have two Nigerian Uro's shipped from www.KCRD.com has anyone else dealt with them before? Also is there anything special with the Nigerians that I should know about? I have already built an enclosure for them months ago in anticipation. I will list what I have already for them. If you know of anything else I will need or should change please let me know. Also if you have a proven feeding regimen, that would be great to know too. I want nothing more than for them to be in the best of health.

Enclosure: 54Wx24Hx24D
Lighting: 18" Flourescent UVB 100W Basking Bulb
Additional Heat: 100W CHE with Thermostat

Thanks,
Jake

Replies (26)

el_toro Nov 14, 2006 01:23 PM

Jake-

The cage sounds like a decent size. What are the temperatures? Basking, ambient warm side, cool side - and what kind of thermometers do you use to measure it? How is the UVB bulb mounted and how far away is it from the basking surface? Fluorescents don't throw UVB very far - if it's more than 12" away, there's effectively no UVB reaching the animals.

Nigerians (Saharans/geyri) are usually wild caught and difficult to acclimate. Keep a very close eye on them when they arrive and be quick to get veterinary involvement if you see anything off. It's normal for them to be shy or not eat right away. It's not normal for them to look dull or lifeless. Definitely get fecal samples in to the vet to check for parasites, as they're usually carrying something.

Do you have pictures of your cage? Many of us like seeing custom enclosures.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.1 Saharan Uros (Joe and Arthur)
3.1 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, Tank, and Lilly)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
0.1 Collared Lizard (Rorschach)
2.1 Green Anoles (Bowser, Sprocket, Leeloo)
1.1 Chubby Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

tattoovt Nov 14, 2006 08:24 PM

Thanks for all the info. The basking spot is around 105 or so, I was thinking of keeping the cool side around 88. I will certainly keep a close eye on them when I get them tomorrow. I am at work right now, but when I get home in the morning I will take some pics, and give more in-depth info on the enclosure I built. I have several other reptiles as well, but absolutely love the uros look and have wanted some for a long time. Thanks again for all the help and I will keep you posted.

Jake

benedita Nov 14, 2006 10:03 PM

is that the air temp of your basking spot or the surface temp?
102F is too cool if that's your surface temperature. If you don't know your surface temps, I advise that you get an IR temp gun, as regular probe thermometers don't give surface readings.
Surface temps under the basking spot should be very hot, I keep mine just about 120F. I recall that some people on this forum have it even hotter, but I'll let them speak for themselves.
--b

el_toro Nov 15, 2006 12:41 AM

>>I recall that some people on this forum have it even hotter, but I'll let them speak for themselves.

Woof!

I keep most of my basking areas around 130F as measured with my temp gun. Some hotter, some cooler. My geyri like it hot hot hot - 135-ish. If you need to, an easy way to raise the basking temps is to stack your basking area higher - gets it closer to the bulb without risking raising your cool side air temps. Cool side should be fine around 88 as long as it doesn't get much warmer than that.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.1 Saharan Uros (Joe and Arthur)
3.1 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, Tank, and Lilly)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
0.1 Collared Lizard (Rorschach)
2.1 Green Anoles (Bowser, Sprocket, Leeloo)
1.1 Chubby Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

tattoovt Nov 15, 2006 03:55 AM

That reading was just with a regular thermometer. I assume it's the ambient air temp by the basking surface. I did purchase a 150W basking bulb last night. I will pick up one of those IR guns soon. The basking site is a multi-level/hide that I built so I'm pretty sure they will go to where they like it. You will see what I mean about the multiple levels when I take the pics once I get home. Thanks again everyone.
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python
0.1 Red Tail Boa
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa (66% Het Snow)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn
0.1 Snow Corn
0.1 Miami Phase Corn
1.0 Green Iguana
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions

jaffar311 Nov 15, 2006 11:22 AM

You might want to stop somewhere and get a digital thermometer with an external probe on your way home since that will give you a better idea of temps right now. I just would not recommend going into this without having a better idea of what the temps are and if getting a temp gun will take a few days I'd def make the stop.
-----
1.1 Ornates (Lindsay Pike)(Doug Dix)
0.0.1 Mali
0.0.1 Egyptian
0.1 Weimaraner

TattooVT Nov 15, 2006 08:59 PM

Actually my father has a temp gun he is letting me use until mine comes in. I am ordering my own at the end of the week. The basking spot on the top level is at 133. DHL delivered them today and they seem to be very healthy and adapting better than I expected.
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)

Arredondo Nov 15, 2006 09:13 PM

Don't know what type of "basking bulb" you have or how deep your set-up, but just be aware that a true basking bulb of that wattage can be thermal overkill.
Our setups average 48Lx22Dx20H. Basking bulbs are situated just under the "ceilings." We use Zoo Med 75 watts &, as Torey suggested, stack the basking area to achieve the right temps. We've tried 100 watt bulbs & the hot end ambients were excessive. So I would think a 150 would fry an egg, over-well.
Another thing that may help. Use a dimmer switch. We use them alot with both snakes & lizards. It will allow you to employ a higher wattage than needed bulb but you can tweak the temps down to exactly where you need them. WalMart has them.

TattooVT Nov 15, 2006 09:24 PM

My setup is 54Wx24Dx24H and my basking bulb (Exo Terra Basking Neodymium 150W) sits on top of the setup on a screen (much like it would in an aquarium setup). Also the front of the setup is 1/4" X 1/4" screen, and the basking area is multiple height levels. I have included a pic so you can get a better look.

Thanks,
Image
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)

Arredondo Nov 16, 2006 08:16 PM

Is the UV light just hidden in the photo?
For what it's worth, I've found that for the usual problem-ridden imports, especially young ones, UV/basking lights like what T-Rex ( & others) offers definitely encourages better health in the short term. They seem to respond almost immediately. The lights themselves can be a pain in the arse but can serve to revitalize a suffering lizard.
Flourescents that spread UV over a broad area may suffice for well acclimated animals that have an opportunity to climb close. But, for those scared imports that flee at their own shadow, a UV/basking light may be a better avenue.
Now, all you folks who know lighting requirements are OK to come beat me up!

TattooVT Nov 16, 2006 09:01 PM

At the time of the picture I didn't have it mounted. It is an 18" tube (Exo Terra Repti-Glo 8.0). I now have it mounted on the back wall near the top. I have really wanted to get a powersun mercury vapor bulb, but I have been reading on the forums that they tend to burn out pretty quick. For $40 I don't know if I want to try that. As for the new uros they seem to be pretty active. I haven't seen either of them actually eat anything yet, but I have faith that they will come around.
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)
2.0 Uromastyx Geyri (Tobasco and Dijon)

Arredondo Nov 16, 2006 09:25 PM

I agree. Lotsa bucks for one bulb that can be cantankerous at best. Wish you best of luck. Me thinks you've got some issues ahead of you. Stay in touch with all here!

TattooVT Nov 16, 2006 09:33 PM

Issues? Oh, I forgot to mention, the vet is setting me up with some meds for parasites tomorrow just in case.
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)
2.0 Uromastyx Geyri (Tobasco and Dijon)

Arredondo Nov 16, 2006 09:45 PM

Didn't mean to offend you Jake with the word "issues"!!Keep in mind, all reptile owners, myself included, constantly have them. Goes with the territory. Apoligize if my wording was coarse.

TattooVT Nov 16, 2006 09:49 PM

Not offended at all. More like concerned. I'm all about getting feedback from you all. You have been much more help than anyone locally has. I can't thank you all enough.
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)
2.0 Uromastyx Geyri (Tobasco and Dijon)

TattooVT Nov 15, 2006 09:02 PM

I took some with my cell phone. I will take some better ones with my digital camera. I just didn't want to stress them any more using a flash.
Image
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)

TattooVT Nov 15, 2006 09:03 PM

Pic2
Image
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)

el_toro Nov 15, 2006 11:03 PM

I'm glad to hear they're doing ok for the moment - do keep an eye though. They're very thin, as imports often are.

Also, they're both very colorful. If they're both males, you won't be able to house them together. There will be territorial and dominance fighting.

My own fat male geyri (puffed up for maximum scare value, of course):

-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.1 Saharan Uros (Joe and Arthur)
3.1 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, Tank, and Lilly)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
0.1 Collared Lizard (Rorschach)
2.1 Green Anoles (Bowser, Sprocket, Leeloo)
1.1 Chubby Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

TattooVT Nov 16, 2006 12:49 AM

Wow, he is huge. What would be the best thing to feed them that I can find at the grocery store. I live in VT, dandilions are pretty rare this time of year. I've been reading that collard greens, carrots, frozen mixed veggies (thawed of course), squash, and various types of shelled birdseed are good. I just don't want to feed the wrong things to them. I would like them to remain healthy and just bulk up a bit. Much appreciated as always.
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)

el_toro Nov 16, 2006 01:03 AM

Look for endive, escarole, bok choy, and dandelions for the greens. Kale and collards are ok, but not the best. Avoid spinach, beet greens, cabbage, and chard. Shredded squashes, zucchini, parsnip, etc, are all nice additions. I'm sure other folks will have good suggestions as well.

A dry mix of things like birdseed, lentils, crushed beans (not kidney beans), dry grasses, wheat berries, bee pollen granules, juvie iguana pellets, etc, can be offered later on. I wouldn't use dry foods until you're sure they're eating regularly and parasite free.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.1 Saharan Uros (Joe and Arthur)
3.1 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, Tank, and Lilly)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
0.1 Collared Lizard (Rorschach)
2.1 Green Anoles (Bowser, Sprocket, Leeloo)
1.1 Chubby Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

TattooVT Nov 16, 2006 01:35 AM

Thanks so much Torey. I'm hitting the grocery store as soon as I get out of work this morning. I will pick up a few and see what they like. This forum is a godsend. Thanks to everyone for there help and concerns. I was just counting the list of reptiles I have in my signature. I'm at 11 so far. I think I might have a slight addiction. I'm hitting the NY Metro Reptile Expo on the 26th too. I'm sure I won't leave there empty handed.
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)
2.0 Uromastyx Geyri (Tobasco and Dijon)

TattooVT Nov 15, 2006 09:04 PM

Pic3
Image
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)

jaffar311 Nov 16, 2006 08:34 AM

It seems like it would be hard to keep the proper temps with a screen top and front.
-----
1.1 Ornates (Lindsay Pike)(Doug Dix)
0.0.1 Mali
0.0.1 Egyptian
0.1 Weimaraner

TattooVT Nov 16, 2006 09:14 PM

The only screen that is at the top of the cage is the two locations for bulbs/lamps. Other than those two 9" square holes the entire top is wood. As for the screen front, the cage is in a climate controlled room where all of my reptiles are kept. Now that the uros are in there my daytime temps in the room are above 80. So I'm pretty sure the temp situation is ok. It's not like I have them outside. I did a lot of research before I got them to build the proper size enclosure and create a basking site that has different heights and locations for proper thermal regulation. It seems like I'm getting slammed for everything I'm doing on here. I am very appreciative of the help, but feel I'm being criticized for everything I'm trying to do. All I want is what's best for my animals.

Thanks,
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)
2.0 Uromastyx Geyri (Tobasco and Dijon)

el_toro Nov 17, 2006 02:06 AM

>>but feel I'm being criticized for everything I'm trying to do.

Don't think of it as criticism - think of it as helping, without the "please"s and "thank you"s! I don't think anyone's trying to tear you down, honestly. We're just trying to think of all the little things that might make a difference. You're doing a great job trying to get this all done. It can be overwhelming at first, especially with input from all of us putting in our two cents. Don't let it get to you.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.1 Saharan Uros (Joe and Arthur)
3.1 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, Tank, and Lilly)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
0.1 Collared Lizard (Rorschach)
2.1 Green Anoles (Bowser, Sprocket, Leeloo)
1.1 Chubby Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

TattooVT Nov 17, 2006 03:50 AM

Sorry everyone. It's been a rough week, and the last thing I want is to lose my newest additions. Just a lot of drama. All the animals are just fine. I'll keep you all posted on if they finally eat and how they are over the weekend.
-----
Jake Gooding
St. Albans, VT

0.1 Ball Python (Marley)
0.1 Red Tail Boa (Diesel)
0.1 Hypomelanistic Boa-66% Het Snow (Sunset)
1.0 Albino Red Tail Boa (Cooper)
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn (Casper)
0.1 Snow Corn (Snow)
0.1 Miami Phase Corn (Lily)
1.0 Green Iguana (Butch)
0.1 Citrus X Sunfire Bearded Dragon (Fury)
0.0.5 Emperor Scorpions (Too many to name)
2.0 Uromastyx Geyri (Tobasco and Dijon)

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