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What is this?

FreakManNinja Nov 29, 2006 09:46 PM

I got this snake from my friend's uncle along with a cornsnake and a leopard gecko. He said it was a Brazilian Land Boa, but I have yet to find anything signifying that it is an actual type of snake. So I was wondering if you guys could help me out. He wasn't sure what the sex was, I think she's female and that her previous owner was an idiot. He kept her in a wooden box a little bigger than a 10 gallon tank. And she's 5 feet long. Brilliant. I put her in a bigger tank and she seems to be pretty sociable, she's only struck at anyone once since I've had her and we were putting her back into her cage after feeding, so that didn't really surprise me. The guy didn't know how old she was... said it could be anywhere from 2 to 10 years old because he couldn't remember. So I have no clue how big she's gonna get or what. So please please please help me.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/FreakManNinja/DCFN0105.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/FreakManNinja/DCFN0103.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/FreakManNinja/DCFN0099.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/FreakManNinja/DCFN0097.jpg

She also has this really spiffy iridescent sheen to her when the light hits her that doesn't show up in these pictures.

Thanks,
Katie

Replies (14)

chrish Nov 29, 2006 10:33 PM

The snake is a boa constrictor, but not from Brazil. It looks like a northern Central American boa or possibly even one from Mexico. Boas have been imported out of Central America recently but not Mexico. That doesn't mean they don't get into the country illegally however.

Also, that snake looks like it is terrible condition. The scarring on the face looks very severe, probably from being kept in a cage with wire screening. That might clear up a bit over time with repeated shedding.

It should get up to around 6 or 8 feet, depending where it is from. Most Mexican boas don't get to 6 feet while the boas from northern Central America get around 8.

You could post this on the Boa forum and maybe get some more informed opinions from the boa experts.
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Chris Harrison
San Antonio, Texas

justinian2120 Nov 29, 2006 10:53 PM

yeah could be the creen top enclosure.....but if those scars are from feeding it live prey there's proof enough it's a bad idea;switch it to frozen/thawed if that's the case......otherwise a beautiful,dark boa though-reminds me of the argentine subsp. of boa constrictor.
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"with head raised regally,and gazing at me with lidless eyes,he seemed to question with flicks of his long forked tongue my right to trespass on his territory" Carl Kauffeld

FreakManNinja Nov 29, 2006 11:06 PM

She's always been fed live rats and she just started rubbing her face on the screen in the past couple of weeks and the marks only showed up then. I think I'm going to run out to Lowes tomorrow and look at some softer screening. I looked at the top and I can rescreen it.

FreakManNinja Nov 29, 2006 10:54 PM

K thanks... And all tops for tanks around here have wire screening, so I don't know what type to get. Would window screening---the soft black flimsy kind work? The screen thats on there now pulls out and I think I could probably replace the wire with something.

chrish Nov 30, 2006 12:13 AM

IF you are going to keep it in an aquarium, I would suggest going to the hardware store and getting a piece of heavy gauge pegboard for a cover in place of the screen.

If you measure and cut it correctly, you can get it to sit in the lip of the tank. Or for security, cut it 1 inch larger than the tank perimeter and put some 1 inch wood strips around the edge so it fits over the tank - like the lid of a cardboard shoebox - and can't be slid off. Then weigh it down with bricks or something similar (Don't underestimate the strength of a large boa like that!). It isn't the best looking top, but it is a lot better for the animal.
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Chris Harrison
San Antonio, Texas

FreakManNinja Nov 30, 2006 12:24 AM

Thanks. I'll definitely go tomorrow and get the supplies. I've never had a problem like this with any of my other snakes and feel a bit stupid. Maybe you could help me with my other snake problem though...

My cornsnake recently escaped his cage and got loose in my apartment. I found him the next day but my kitten (I thank God it wasn't my full grown cat--she'd have killed him) had gotten a hold of him and did some damage. I took him to an emergency vet after running around hysterically for about 5 minutes. They gave me Baytril to give to him and told me to do some soaks. Only one problem: he won't take the medicine. Its liquid and they gave me a dropper to give him 4 drops twice a day and he tries to eat it every time and then if I do get it in, most of it squirts out the sides of his mouth. I'm terrified I'm going to hurt his teeth and he's going to get mouth rot. Irrational I know but he's my baby. And I was wanting to know what kind of soak would be best since he has puncture wounds on top of puncture wounds?

Thank you again!

Rivets55 Nov 30, 2006 01:37 PM

First - Giving Liquid Medicine to a Snake:

This is actually quite easy. Don't put the drops in the snakes mouth as it will not be swallowed. You have to insert the dropper into the snakes throat far enough so the medicine goes down the snakes gullet. A hard plastic or glass dropper should not harm the snakes teeth, since the teeth can't be snagged on a hard object. Be gentle but firm when inserting the dropper. It may help to have someone restrain the snake's body while you do this.

The crucial thing NOT to do is to insert the dropper in the snake's glottis. This is the organ the snake breaths through. Unlike most other vertebrates, snakes have their glottis located in the bottom of their mouth instead of the throat. This adaptation allows them to breath while swallowing large prey whole. If you aren't sure where the glottis is located, consult a reference on snake anatomy - or search the web.

Your vet should have instructed you on the proper technique - if not call or go back to have it explained.

Second - Soaking A Snake:

This is very simple - the only thing you should soak a snake in is clean fresh water. If you are worried about additives in tap water, use spring water from the store. You need to be sure the water is a comfortable temperature for the snake. With a thermometer, check the temp and have it around 80 to 85 degrees F. Any temp of 90 degrees F or higher is dangerous and potentially fatal.

Do not use foot soakers or any kind of water heater intended for humans as these get too hot. If you don't have a thermometer, then use the inside of your wrist to sense the temperature of the water - it should feel slightly cool to your skin. If the water feels warm to you, then its too hot for a snake.

If its any consolation, I've had an escaped hatchling injured by cats. I could actually see the internal bleeding caused by the cats canine teeth. The snake drank and ate the next day and made a complete recovery.

Good Luck With your Cornsnake!

John D.
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I am so not lesdysxic!

0.1 Creamsicle Cornsake "Yolanda"
1.0 Bairds Ratsnake "Steely Dan"
0.1 Desert Kingsnake "FATTY"
0.1 Black Rat (WV Rescue) "Roberta"

FreakManNinja Nov 30, 2006 02:08 PM

I've got to get a smaller dropper--- the one they gave me is huge, so hopefully I'll have a better time with one of those. I guess I'll try the soaks again sometime today. Usually I just fill up one of my spare cages with water like you had said... we'll just see how much he flips out this time. And I'm very glad you're snake made it. I don't think he should have complication... most of the wounds aren't very deep, the most noticeable are just long scratches. I'm going out to buy him a pinky today. He's hungry and they're a lot smaller than his head and neck.

antelope Dec 01, 2006 08:51 AM

Try a flat tupperware with some small holes in the lid for the soaking. Or a round one big enough for the snake to fit in. The less they can move around, the more soaking they get.
Todd Hughes

LarryF Nov 30, 2006 02:51 PM

Depending on what the top is made of, you may or may not be able to do this, but if you can, leave the wire screen in place (for strength) and add the soft window screen over top of this (on the inside). That usually helps quite a bit.

FreakManNinja Nov 30, 2006 05:33 PM

I went ahead and changed out the wire for the soft screening. She hasn't been up to rub on it yet, but it should work.

DMong Nov 29, 2006 11:43 PM

I would agree with "chrish" as to what it is. It's a common Boa Constrictor (Boa c. imperator/mexicana from Central America or Mexico. I also think the snake will be much better off with you,instead of the other guy who had it before. Someone who knows that little about the animal he/she has, doesn't need to own one in my opinion........If you notice any raw areas on the snake's face, put some Hydrogen peroxide/Betadine on it. This will prevent some very serious problems that snakes can get from rubbing their noses on cage lids. If the snake continues doing this, it can get what is known as mouth-rot(infectious stomatitis), this is something you don't want!.........Doug

FreakManNinja Nov 29, 2006 11:49 PM

Her face isn't raw, thankfully. Its just been really dry since she's been rubbing it on the top. And thanks... I tend to want to rescue animals. I have a soft spot for most things. The cornsnake I got from the same guy does not like me very much. He's always striking at the side of his aquarium when someone walks by. I'm starting to think this guy just had them to say he owmed a couple of snakes. The leopard gecko is crazy too. I've handled a lot of them from working at a pet store and none were so mean. I try not to bother those two too much, they seem a lot happier if I just feed and water them and leave em to their own devices.

jtibbett Nov 30, 2006 12:24 PM

I just wanted to comment about the face rubbing. I once had that problem with a snake, and was told that if the snake is trying that hard to get out, there's a reason. As in, its needs aren't being met. All snakes will explore an enclosure a bit and try to find a way out, but when they start to hurt themselves, you should look into why.

I don't have any experience with boas, so I can't tell you what the cage conditions should be, but if I were you, I'd find out and start checking systematically -- is the temperature range where it's supposed to be? Is the humidity at the right %? Is the animal able to hide itself well enough?

I had this problem two years ago. Once I corrected everything, the animal stopped hurting itself and has not started again. The same might apply to your situation.

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2.0 Pantherophis obsoletus obsoletus
0.2 Pantherophis guttatus guttatus

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