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how much too feed and growth rates

biowarble Dec 02, 2006 03:27 PM

I first got a red-eared slider a little more than a year ago. I know a herpetologist who suggested feeding dry dog food. She doesn't eat a LOT of it, but she does some (gets a good share of nutrients that way). After dog food, she gets minnow/goldfish or crawlers/earthworms. The first couple months I would feed her 'til she stopped eating. I then cut back, but it seems she continues to grow VERY rapidly.

She shares a tank with a male eastern painted turtle that I caught late this past summer. He eats far less, even far less per total weight of the turtle. So far he has not grown much at all.

Replies (2)

Linda G Dec 02, 2006 07:33 PM

It sounds as if you are over feeding. Only feed every other
day and use variety. Make sure you are feeding fresh greens,
and vegetables as well. I would very much recommend adding a
good pelleted food to her diet. I have used Reptomin Turtle
sticks with great success. This should be the staple of her
diet because it is complete. The key is not overfeeding too
much of any type of food. For instance, mine get fresh
greens and veggies one day. Then the next day they may get the pelleted food. Then the day after that fresh fruit. The day
after that soaked dry catfood. There are many things that my
turtles eat but they do not get live food. I don't want the
mess and the threat of parasites.

Here is a picture of one of my sliders that I raised from
a hatchling. They should grow slowly. She is 7 years old
and is not 8-9". That is only a little over 1" per year.

Hope this helps
Linda

Paradon Dec 16, 2006 11:52 PM

If it's still a juvenile, try feeding it smaller meal everyday. When I say small I mean enough to diminish appetite, but turtle should still be beging for food. If you are feeding the commerical pellets, feed it the amount that would fit in the turtle head and neck. But do not rely upon the commercial food as staple; feed it varieties of food including a lot of veggies and leafy greens, which should make up the bulk of the diet. But younger turtle may be more carnivorous than herbivorous, but it doesn't hurt to offer them veggies from time to time. Adult turtle are more herbivorous, eating mostly plants, than younger juveniles and babies. I heard map turtle are more carnivorous than the red-eared slider, so feed it varieties of inverterbrates along with commerical pellets is the key. Again, do not just give commercial pellets to your map, but offer varieties is the key. I heard sometimes even the map turtles will eat veggies and leafy greens, so you can offer them to the your turtle if he will eat it.

Here is a diet summary for red-eared sliders; it should be something like this:
25% commerical food such as trout chows, dried cat and dog food, and good quality commerical turtle food such as Reptomin, Wardley, or Mazuri. Note: the commerical made specifically for turtle tend to be more balanced for them so I would use that more often than the other.
25% live whole prey such as feeder goldfish, pinky mice, crickets, mealworms, giant mealworms (or zoophoba), nightcrawlers and small earthworms. Occasionally, you can give them meaty item like beef heart, chicken, beef, and pork. All must cooked first to kill germs like salmonella, E. coli, and other food borned orgainism which can make your turtle sick. Note: I say whole prey because they are more nutritionally balanced than just muscle meat, which is reserved for occasional treat. Try dredging these food item in multivitamin and calcium supplement before given to the turtles. Calcium tablet can be hide in a piece of meat before given to your turtle.
50% leafy greens and veggies such as mustard, collard, dandelion greens, carrots, winter squash, escarole, green beans, sugar snap peas, snow peas, peas, parsnips, turnips, sweet potato, and yam, which should form the staple of your turtle's diet. Stay away from all the lettuces which is basically just water and cellulose, hardly any vitamin and minerals in them at all; this include all the lettuces like romaine, and red-leaf varieties. All fruits also have very little to no nutritional values whatsoever and are low in calcium and high in phosphorous, except of figs, which is high in calcium; fruits also have lousy caclium/phosphorous ratio, except for figs. When I say fruits this also include tomatoes which should be fed sparingly like anyother fruits because of them being nutritionally empty food.

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