Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello!

I have 2 Leopard Geckos (Eustace & Eugene) and one Bearded Dragon (Horacio). I have had them for a few years and I have always had the same problem. I cannot seem to keep the heat lights from blowing out. It happens with the day bulbs and the night bulbs and I've tried a few different kinds from a few different pet stores. Sometimes they blow as early as a week, and in a lot of cases I'm lucky if they last a month.

Any suggestions on what I can do?

Show us your set-ups.

I had a problem with red night lights blowing fast on my leopard gecko setup. I went thru 2 in about a month and a half. The regular, household-type incandescent I use for daytime heat never blew, though.

Mine could have been due to over-spray from misting getting on the bulb here & there but I know I wasn't real careless about it. I finally said "To heck with it" and quit using a lightbulb for nighttime heat and just keep the room around 75 or above.

If you're blowing both day/night bulbs you could have a problem with that electrical circuit or possibly the lamps/domes they are in. Maybe try a different outlet, on a different breaker.

Power surges will blow 'em, too. I think most of those specialty bulbs use thiner filaments than the average bulbs.

Either way, I feel your pain. I gave up after going thru 2 within a month and a half. I'd be climbing the walls after a few years of it.

Best wishes!
Mike
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It is said that 1 out of every 4 people are mentally unbalanced. Think of your 3 closest friends, if they're normal, then it's you.

>>Hello!
>>
>>I have 2 Leopard Geckos (Eustace & Eugene) and one Bearded Dragon (Horacio). I have had them for a few years and I have always had the same problem. I cannot seem to keep the heat lights from blowing out. It happens with the day bulbs and the night bulbs and I've tried a few different kinds from a few different pet stores. Sometimes they blow as early as a week, and in a lot of cases I'm lucky if they last a month.
>>
>>Any suggestions on what I can do?

Incadescent bulbs generally don't like being jarred around. If the lights are constantly being moved off the cage in order to get into the tank that could be a possible reason. Also, heavy vibrations in the room can be a cause. Example, where I work we have some small incadescents that light up some dark exhibits. However, with the traffic of a few hundred kids running around the exhibit room each week, the vibrations of the foot traffic often cause some of the bulbs to burn out in 1-2 weeks on average - sometimes less than a week. If you happen to live in a older style house with wooden floors over say a crawl space and the room generally 'shakes' when you walk through the room where the animals are kept, that consistant vibration can be enough to upset the light bulbs.

I also believe the glass is a little thinner on those specialty bulbs than normal household incadescents. As such, any water (such as from misting the tank) hitting the bulbs while those bulbs are on and hot can often cause them to blow out. Once I even had 250 watt heat bulbs stationed over a turtle pond literally explode in a shower of glass before and those lights were a good 8 feet above the water and usual splash line.
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PHWyvern

Since I've wired most of my cages and my house for that
matter, I tend to lean more toward a circuit or electrical
problem. If It were me I would begin with the electrical
panel and work my way through the plug circuit which
ends up lighting the cages in question.

1) Check the electrical service panel make and sure that
the breaker doesn't have too many separate lines
(individual circuits going to different rooms, appliances etc)
on that circuit breaker which powers the problem cages.
If so, have someone who is experienced/qualified either
move all or some of those extra lines to other breakers or
add a new breaker and only connect the wires leading to
the room in which the cages are plugged in at.

2) You can purchase a cheap multi meter which will read
various voltages at 120v, 240v as well as dc voltages. A
digital meter will be more accurate but a cheaper dial meter
will work just fine. Set the meter to 120 vac and plug the
test leads into the wall outlet so you can monitor any voltage
highs or lows and even voltage spikes etc.
Be sure that the outlets you are using for the cages are not
overloaded with other appliances. I usually use an outlet strip
then plug the cage cords into it for additional protection from
surges etc.

3) Check the cords from the lamp sockets to the to the cord
plug. Make sure it is a good quality (UL approved) and is at
least a 14-3 size cord which should be in good shape and not
frail at any point.

4) For ceiling mounted lighting, be sure to use a UL approved
ceramic or porcelain lighting socket which are rated for the
lamps used and make sure the wires are hooked up properly
on to the color coded screws (hot/brass, neutral/silver,
green/ground). I always use a galvanized lighting octagon ext
box then mount the porcelain socket to it which allows a couple
of inches of space between the socket and the cage ceiling. Use
the proper size reflector domes (for the size of lamps used) so
that the lamps wont overheat.When using the 'clamp light fixtures' make sure the sockets are also porcelain or ceramic and rated for the lamp wattage used.

John