Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Its 4ft by 4ft by 2ft high.

Once again and again. Oh my am I a bad person. All of a sudden I felt like Yosemity Sam(sp)

That is one pretty death trap. Sad but true, it will without question Kill your monitors. Its only a matter of time.

I may be wrong but, it appears you have heavy rocks on top of substrate. In the zoo world(exhibits) thats a no no. Heavy items start at the bottom. That way they cannot sink down and squash the poor monitors. Setting aside that each layer is also a dead trap.

Ackies are FAMOUS for wedging themselves in those cracks, they do this push bounce. That is, they poke their noses in then flex and push the rock up. The problem is, the rock slowly comes back down and slowly squashes the poor monitor. When you find it, you will be amazed as the ackie will be paper thin, with his eyeballs popped out. Yes, I learned the hard way. more then once.

Also the cactus. Where ackies come from, there is no cactus, they have no natural understanding of spines that will kill them. They use spinifex, which is an irratint, but not harmful.

Next, lites up high on a screen lid. This is a giant no no, do a search on this as its been discussed to death. Pro exotics site most likely will explain this(i hope)

Other then that, is pretty. But what is pretty to you is most likely not pretty to the monitor. They like, no love, useful over pretty anyday all day. You can use those rocks if you understand the problems. I don't I use retes stacks made of plywood, look crappy but work well. Retes stacks do not kill. Thats how they came into exsistance.

The trouble with monitors is. When healthy and I suppose your goal is to allow them to be healthy. They are curious buggers, they get into everything. They do so to their death. In otherwords, they are curious like a cat, only without the nine lives. If they can kill themselves, they will find a way.

Again by far the most common accident they have is dying under heavy objects. Cheers

Thanks Frank and understood. All of the rocks are glued together starting from the bottom. The screen top has clear melamine on top to keep in the humidity.

As for the Cactai I will try and find plants that are more to their liking.

Thanks

Sorry I meant Mylar not Melamine. I appreciate the help. I know you've been doing this more than everyone else combined.

Great and two more things. one, the monitors will wedge themselves in a crack and not come out for what seems like months and you will break the whole thing apart trying to see if its OK. And It will be and, oh nevermind, that was me that happened too.

Two, you will have better results and use less electricity if you move the lites into the cage. This allows a hotter hot spot and more temperature variation in small enclosed cages like yours.

By the way, we have rainbow cactus, that do not stick you and pincushions. I once used them in collard lizard cages. What a mess, the lizards got all HOOKED up. Cheers

Thanks again Frank. It seems I'm getting pretty good heat gradation from 144 at the top to 80 at the far side.

I'll check out that Cactai and thanks again for the help.

80F on the cool side is not cool. Just a few years ago, that was considered hot. Or Normal.

I love a 65F to 75F on the cool side. I know what I am taking about too. As in the summer I cannot get temps below 80F to 85F and the monitors do not like it.

As the one who invented hot heat(not the heat, but monitors using it. It must me used in conjuntion with areas to rest.

A hot spot of 144F does not give a whole body area of 144. It does offer areas around it that have consistant lower temps, 144 minus.

A cool spot of 80F does not offer 80F but instead 80F plus.

Try taking your heat gun and cut out a paper imagine of your ackies(now and when larger) and place it around the cage and check temps. It will not be what you think it is.

Remember, ackies need to rest in order to use heat. Cheers

Got ya, I'll lower the cool side.

you're not bad Frank, you're just drawn that way.
-----
robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles