>>I plan to transfer him soon.
I would transfer as soon as possible - geyri stress easily in small enclosures and the temps will be hard to maintain properly in there. A 4' x 1.5' would be ideal. I know it seems huge for such a little guy, but it really is in his best interests.
Strong suggestions for caging: #1 - find a nice piece of slate for him to use as a basking spot. You can stack higher or lower to get a good basking temperature. #2 - make a good hide for him that he can really squeeze under. Many people make them from more of the slate. The gap shouldn't be more than two inches high. The half logs that are so popular really don't do anything to make them feel secure, so they lead to more stress. Be dead sure any slate in the cage is secure and placed directly on the bottom of the cage so he can't get crushed. #3 - get rid of any sand or other particulate substrate until you get him healthy. The cage is easier to clean while dealing with parasite meds, plus fecal samples are easier to collect.
Bulb wattage will be strictly trial and error - get several different wattages and try them until you find the right combination. Make sure you have accurate thermometers as the dial and stick on kinds can be wildly inaccurate.
Less of an immediate concern, but one that should be dealt with fairly soon is the UVB bulb. Fluorescents don't throw UVB very far. Your setup will need to allow him within 6-12" of the bulb (ideally with no screen in between). As it is now, the bulb may as well be a standard fluorescent.
Hope that helps. Biggest best suggestion is still vet intervention - immediately.
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Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.1 Saharan Uros (Joe and Arthur)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
0.1 Collared Lizard (Rorschach)
2.1 Green Anoles (Bowser, Sprocket, Leeloo)
1.1 Chubby Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)
