Reptile & Amphibian Forums

i have a central american boa that weeses and druze alot when out of cage , first i thought it was the temp. to low so i up the temp. well that didn't work so far . there is one other thing his scales look ashy in one to two spots on him .
please any advice
thank you
david and jessi

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Jessica and David Spendolini

0.1 Dumerials Boa (ANGEL)
1.0 Albino Burmese Python (JUNIOR)
2.0 Central American Boas (CHANCE AND SNIPER)
2.2 Ball Pythons (SYRUS, ZEUS, SERINE and AALIYAH)
0.1 Pastel Boa (ROSE RED)
0.1 Argentine X Columbian Boa (MARIA)
1.2 Columbian Het Albino (CAPONE, BABY and DIXIE)
0.4 Columbian Boa (ZENA, CARRIE, STAR AND PRINCESS)
1.0 Green Iguana (REX)
0.1 Leopard Gecko (DIAMOND)
1.0 Tiger Retic (ONYX)
0.1 Normal Retic (EMERALD)

If an RI is far enough along a simple change in temps/humidity is not always enough. If the problem persists it may be time to look into getting him some antibiotics.
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1.1 96, 04 Het Albino - "Suzie" & "Lumpy"
0.1 03 Poss. Het Albino - "Ami"
0.1 05 Super Salmon - "CreamSicle"
0.1 04 Anery Het Snow- "Squelchy"
1.0 04 DH-Sunglow - "Dwayne"
1.0 06 TH-Moonglow - "Gargamel"

Set the entire cage temp to 95-97* "NO COOL SPOT"
Provide water source for drinking
Hold true for 2 weeks and you will see positive results.
Yes it OK to feed if the animal will take it,yes it is really that simple.
Nothing positive after "2 weeks"as in 14 Days!! then see a Vet for proper meds.Gram Negitive and Gram Positive actually mean something!

Best Of Luck !

M/

n/p
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Caden Chapman
slithering.serpents@gmail.com

Temps for RI treatment in boids should be in the 90 to 92 F range with a moderate humidity of 70 to 80%. Temps above 95 for extended periods can cause other health issues, some more severe than the RI you are attempting to treat. You are correct in that fresh water needs to be made readily available as the higher heat will cause increased intake. Additionally, the majority of RI cases in snakes are caused by gram negative organisms.

Kelly

Maybe its proper schooling that teachs such ?
We know from our personal as well as others "Repeated Success" this method is a very reliable means.Humidity levels of 70 -80% ?
Most likely how the animal ended up in that condition to begin with.BCI/BCC are not tropical animals and have no need for prolonged moisture levels of 70-80%!Much less a sick animal.
Ill stack our as well as others success rate against your alledged "proper medicine" any day.Its our belief that chronic RI animals are Man made and it couldnt be any more clear as to the source.

M/

>>Temps for RI treatment in boids should be in the 90 to 92 F range with a moderate humidity of 70 to 80%. Temps above 95 for extended periods can cause other health issues, some more severe than the RI you are attempting to treat. You are correct in that fresh water needs to be made readily available as the higher heat will cause increased intake. Additionally, the majority of RI cases in snakes are caused by gram negative organisms.
>>
>>Kelly

All my snakes should be dead. I live in Fl. and my snakes are outside and subject to up to 98 degrees for months at a time.With only 30% humity. I don't go for the artifical envoriment. They enjoy the full effects of mother nature. Talk about a healthy immune system. I don.t have all this health problems I'm reading about. Okay go ahead and cut lose and tell me how I.ve been doing it wrong all this time.

Your comparing two different situations. Being able to thermoregulate outside is a whole lot different than any cage inside. Outside you have many variables to consider, and even though your thermometer may read in the upper 90's the temps that your Boas are sitting at may not be reflective of that. Next summer measure your animals body temps, and unless basking, it probably isn't going to be over 90 Degrees. Any constant temp. over 95 Degrees sounds like possible Kidney/other organ shutdown to me

I live in Florida as well, and while I will agree that it gets darn hot in the summer, it is not 98* 24/7 for months on end, although around the end of August most people would swear to it.
It actully cools off at night to the low to mid 80's. Also, if you are to go into the shade with a temp gun and measure the temps of the leaf litter under the trees (a place you might find a boa in the wild) the temps are more likely to be in the 80's even on a 98* day.

My point being, PROLONGED high temps can and are dangerous. Your boa is not actually 98* for a couple of months, more likely its body temps are in the mid to high 80's even on those really hot days.

Kathy

I think more experienced people should be answering this.
do not purposly heat your animal at those temps!! If you can not rid of the IR by keeping a steady temp of 90 degrees,then you should take that animal to the vet!!!!

M/ and T/

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www.junglestruck.com

n/p
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www.junglestruck.com

I normally keep my opinions to myself but this thread is just too much for me.

First it is my Opinion, and obviously that of some others on here, that prolonged temps over or around 95* are TOO warm and will do more harm than good. Temps around 88* to 90* for a sick animal are more benificial, without being dangerous.

"BCI/BCC are not tropical animals and have no need for prolonged moisture levels of 70-80%!"

?????
Since when did the area that boas come from naturally move out of the TROPICS? I live in Florida and the Humidity here today is 83%, and boas come from even further south and more "tropical" a climate than Florida. Please proof read and do not purposely post misinformation.

I worry some times that people will actually believe incorrect infomation when it is presented in such a forceful manner. Not unlike here, with you insisting that boas are not tropical creatures and prolonged temps above 95* would be OK.

Kathy

Which is actually why I even answered this post. There are people who might believe a post and hurt their boa. I hope you all know, novice and expert alike, that your excellent herp vet is who to ask when you have medical questions. If your vet is good, don't let some poster on a board be your authority. If your vet isn't that good keep looking. There has to be a bottom line in your snakes' care. It just can't be any self appointed experts online. There are a lot of people around that have bad information. I don't know why, but people obviously make stuff up, or believe others who don't know squat. Get it together people. It's the Internet. There's more bad info on the Internet than ANYWHERE.

Caden

>> . . . . I worry some times that people will actually believe incorrect infomation when it is presented in such a forceful manner. . . .>>
>>Kathy
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Caden Chapman
slithering.serpents@gmail.com

to be raised that high either. Humidity shouldn't be aimed above 65%. Above that and you start to get condensation and mold problems. It is good to raise the temps up for an RI, but not dangerously high. It is also good to get it to the vet for antibiotics. If the snake is mouth breathing, don't use aspen either, or you'll be picking pieces of aspen out of your snakes mouth.

Caden
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Caden Chapman
slithering.serpents@gmail.com

Don't mess with him,he has a DEGREE!!!!!

M/ and T/
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www.junglestruck.com

n/p
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Caden Chapman
slithering.serpents@gmail.com

What bothers me the most about this thread is no one asked any questions for a proper diagnosis of the problem at hand. Sure it sounds exactly like the animal has a resp. infection......but the lines of questions for a non-med treatment have been a bit one-sided IMO.

First off....to the original poster. Is that the cage the animal is housed in directly behind you in your picture? If so an all glass enclosure with a screen top sitting next to a window is a near perfect way to get your snake sick. Regardless of your average temps. You are getting a lot of fluctuation in temps with housing like that.

So firsts things first. If that is his cage MOVE HIM! If you have to keep him in a glass aquarium at least move it into a closet or some room that you can control the ambient temps better and avoid any drafts. Once you isolate that problem you can get your overall temps in the upper 80's to low 90's and keep it at a constant with no cool spots. Humidity can be controlled easier this way as well. The problem with higher humidity is when you don't have your ambient temps correct and at a constant. The wetness will make areas of the cage cold even though you think you have your cage temps right on. Especially if there are any drafts of cool air getting in there!

So I would suggest you do the following:

1. Move the snake to a more controlled environment -(smaller room, closet, etc)
2. Put the snake in a cage that doesn't lose or excessively retain heat (something without all glass sides and an open top)
3. Keep your heat in the lower 90's all the time with no cool spots
4. Keep fresh water in the cage at all times
5. Watch the humidity and if having it too high causes a temp change at any time you need to dry it out a bit. At least until the RI has cleared up. (which can take a long time)

Keep in mind if the infection does clear up and you move the animal back to an unfavorable area it will come back.

Thank you

..Very good information. The only thing I would do different would be to set the cage up with the warm end in the low 90s and the cool end in the high 80s.
Jeff

>>What bothers me the most about this thread is no one asked any questions for a proper diagnosis of the problem at hand. Sure it sounds exactly like the animal has a resp. infection......but the lines of questions for a non-med treatment have been a bit one-sided IMO.
>>
>>First off....to the original poster. Is that the cage the animal is housed in directly behind you in your picture? If so an all glass enclosure with a screen top sitting next to a window is a near perfect way to get your snake sick. Regardless of your average temps. You are getting a lot of fluctuation in temps with housing like that.
>>
>>So firsts things first. If that is his cage MOVE HIM! If you have to keep him in a glass aquarium at least move it into a closet or some room that you can control the ambient temps better and avoid any drafts. Once you isolate that problem you can get your overall temps in the upper 80's to low 90's and keep it at a constant with no cool spots. Humidity can be controlled easier this way as well. The problem with higher humidity is when you don't have your ambient temps correct and at a constant. The wetness will make areas of the cage cold even though you think you have your cage temps right on. Especially if there are any drafts of cool air getting in there!
>>
>>So I would suggest you do the following:
>>
>>1. Move the snake to a more controlled environment -(smaller room, closet, etc)
>>2. Put the snake in a cage that doesn't lose or excessively retain heat (something without all glass sides and an open top)
>>3. Keep your heat in the lower 90's all the time with no cool spots
>>4. Keep fresh water in the cage at all times
>>5. Watch the humidity and if having it too high causes a temp change at any time you need to dry it out a bit. At least until the RI has cleared up. (which can take a long time)
>>
>>Keep in mind if the infection does clear up and you move the animal back to an unfavorable area it will come back.

my Rx (I hope your all laughing) in order of importance:

1. go to the vet and let them asses the right antibiotic and use as directed
2. cool side, no lower than 85 even at night until the snake is well. warm side like Tracy said 90. you can have a slightly hotter hot spot but no more than 95 ever.
3. Humidity spiking to 60% three times a day from spraying. Don't spray so much it runs down the glass.

always:

1. thermometers on both sides, right? Do you have that or a temp gun? You need two thermometers and a humidity meter.
2. have a gradient.
3. never have a boa by the window
4. always cover up a screen top or all your heat and humidity will just go out the top

Good luck,
Caden
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Caden Chapman
slithering.serpents@gmail.com