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my panther

fitzroy08 Apr 10, 2006 06:55 PM

my chameleon (its about two months old) has been sheding for about two weeks i was wondering if this is normal

Replies (9)

kinyonga Apr 10, 2006 09:39 PM

Generally I think it should only take a couple of days to shed.

fitzroy08 Apr 12, 2006 06:46 PM

so does that mean their is somthing wrong cause its going on three weeks now. is their anything i should do?

kinyonga Apr 13, 2006 10:02 AM

Abnormal or prolonged shedding can often be a symptom of poor health, inadequate hydration, too low humidity, or other husbandry-related problems. Its still possible that its just taking longer than normal and nothing is wrong too....so if your chameleon is looking healthy and acting healthy (active, eyes not sunken in, not skinny, eating well, drinking well, defecating properly) I would just make sure that everything is being done right and go from there. You can also try to increase the humidity in the cage.

What's the cage set-up like? (Substrate, temperatures, plants, types of light, etc.)

Do you gutload the insects, supplement/dust them? Are they of appropriate size?

How often do you mist the cage? How do you keep the humidity up in the cage? Is your chameleon well-hydrated?

fitzroy08 Apr 13, 2006 11:02 PM

I have live plants such as umbrellas and photos. I mist it 2-3 times a day. I use carrots and lettuces to gut load my small ˝ inch crickets. I use calcium supplement at least 2 times a week. Wax worms once a week.

kinyonga Apr 14, 2006 04:26 PM

You didn't mention whether you use a substrate or not. I don't use substrates and I cover any soil in plant pots so that the chameleon cannot ingest either and possibly become impacted. Also certain substrates like cedar and pine are not good for chameleons.

You didn't mention temperatures in the basking area and rest of the cage. The ambient temperature in my cages for this species of chameleon is in the mid-80's. I keep the temperature in the basking area for young chameleons (under 4 months of age) slightly above the ambient because small bodies can dehydrate and warm and cool quicker than adults can. Adults can have a warmer basking area temperature.

You didn't mention whether you provide full spectrum lighting including UVB or not or mention whether the chameleon gets direct sun or not. UVB is important for the production of vitamin D3 which in turn allows the chameleon to use the calcium he gets. Vitamin D3 from sources other than the sun and UVB light(orally, etc.) can build up in the system...so care has to be taken not to give them too much dusted on crickets or in the food that the crickets eat.

You didn't mention if your chameleon drinks well or not.

You said..."I use carrots and lettuces to gut load my small ˝ inch crickets"...cricket size is good, but your gutload needs some improvement IMHO. I never use head lettuce, but do include some romaine in my gutload. Romaine has better nutrients. The gutload should consist of a wide variety of healthy veggies and greens, etc. so that the chameleon gets not only healthy well-fed crickets but that the insects' guts are loaded with things that will also benefit the chameleon.

You said..."I use calcium supplement at least 2 times a week. Wax worms once a week"...glad to hear that you only use waxies once a week...they are quite fatty. As for supplementing/dusting the crickets...if your chameleon is out in the sunlight fairly often, he/she will not need extra vitamin D3....but mine are mostly under artificial lighting and I dust my crickets with calcium D3 twice a month in addition to the feedings that I dust with calcium...and I also use a vitamin/mineral powder twice a month (with beta carotene sources of vitamin A so that the vitamin A won't build up in the system). It is said that these powders should not be mixed/given on the same day. The wider the variety of insects you can provide, the better.

Here are some sites that have good information on them, including a recommended gutload and some good articles about vitamins and MBD...
http://www.chameleonjournals.com/vet/
http://adcham.com/
http://www.chameleonnews.com/index.html

I hope that your chameleon will do well for you!

fitzroy08 Apr 14, 2006 09:55 PM

i do not use a substrate and i also cover the soil with rocks. the temp is around 85-90 during the day and about 75 at night. i also use artifical lighting, but i didn't know that i should use d3. i heard it is dangerous. i live in philadelphia, pa so when it gets warmer i plan on taking him outside more often. he drinks every time i mist him- usually for a good five to ten min after i mist. i also use a drip cup to water the plants. thank you for all your help.

kinyonga Apr 15, 2006 02:25 AM

You said..."i didn't know that i should use d3. i heard it is dangerous"...it can build up in the system if you use too much of it...but I only dust the crickets very lightly a couple of times a month...and only if they don't get any direct sun. I have kept panther chameleons for many years now and they seem to do well. Living in Philadelphia, you have the same "problem" as me....they can only be outside in the summer.

Glad to hear that you use no substrate and that you have covered the dirt too! Sounds like you have the drinking covered and everything else sounds good too.

You're welcome for the help! I hope you enjoy your chameleon for many years!

Tdude Jun 14, 2006 04:45 PM

It should have finished shedding within 1 week . Check your humidity levels to make sure they are correct.

sandrachameleon Jul 29, 2006 05:51 PM

Really should finish shedding in a couple days. Longer than a week points to problems. I suggest higher humidity, more frequent water-dripping and misting. If the old skin bits stay on too long, there is a risk of cutting ciculation and/or of killing the new skin underneath. I've heard you can try rubbing a little vaseline on the problem areas, to moisten the old skin and help it come off - but I havent tried this and am not sure if its effective. You might want to consult a vet.

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