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Bio-active Substrate

MacKenzie001 Jan 10, 2007 04:04 PM

I read a posting on another forum about it and thought it sounded like it would be a lot easier upkeep than just using repti-bark. Here's an exerpt of the post:

"basically you start with plastic egg-crate or a couple inches of washed and dried river pebbles, or my favorite hydroponic clay pellets sometimes called expanded clay aggregate (LECA) in a pinch PLAIN kitty litter (that is bentonite clay unscented fired clay kitty litter) will do...you place this on the bottom of the viv....you then cover this with a layer of plastic/nylon screening material....do not use galvanized steel screen as it will rust on you and throw the natural balance off by throwing too many minerals into the mix.....this is your drainage layer then you want to add roughly two to three inches of sterilized peat moss and for the top layer you will want to add a few inches of either sterilized cypress mulch, fine grade fir bark such as orchid bark, or even shredded coconut will work.....win they have a bowel movement you simply scoop it out with a spoon and stir the substrate at least once a week...you will find your maintenance duties cut in half..this mixture holds moisture well and allows real plants to draw nutrients from the water at the drainage level...plus if you have at Least one side made of glass you can check out the moisture content of your mixture. as your reptile begins to urinate and pass movements in this soil mixture a live bacterial culture will begin to form and eventually become bioactive...it is the same sort of thing that happens in a fish tank filter.....if you really want to get into it you can even add an earthworm or two to complete the mix...."

Just wondering if anyone on here uses it or has used it?
Also any info or tips are appreciated.
Thanks, Mak

PS - if it makes a difference I would be using it for a ball python and/or an emerald tree boa.

Replies (10)

LarryF Jan 10, 2007 10:32 PM

My biggest concern would be a buildup of parasitic worms. Since I've started doing my own fecal exams (on my snakes that is), I've found that MOST of the snakes I've bought or adopted came with worms. I wouldn't expect their eggs or larva to be killed by the bacteria, so just spot cleaning would leave a lot of them behind to reinfect and build up a heavy load in the snake...

Might not be too bad for the tree boa, as long as you cleaned his branches now and then.

Also, if you have the snakes checked for worms and treated if required, it might be OK. There may be other issues I'm not thinking of...
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What goes up must come down...unless it exceeds escape velocity.

AndrewFromSoCal Jan 11, 2007 01:16 AM

That is what everyone does for darts, I don't see why it would be different for the snake. Just make sure it won't harm itself burrowing into screen.

LarryF Jan 11, 2007 05:42 PM

How much time do dart frogs spend on/in the substrate where a ball python would be?
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What goes up must come down...unless it exceeds escape velocity.

viborero Jan 11, 2007 08:45 AM

That's the whole point of this type of substrate. Once adequate levels of aerobic(good) bacteria build up, they combat the anaerobic(bad) bacteria.

I keep some Corns in a naturalistic vivarium with this type of substrate set-up. They've been in there for 6 months with no problems. My Ball Pythons have been on bioactive substrate for 8 months, and they are doing great. Perfect sheds, and they're humidity levels are perfect

I also have two frog tanks on bioactive substrate with earthworms and everything. Looks, smells, and works great.
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Diego

Diego & Tiffany's Zoo:
SNAKES
2.4.0 Corn Snakes (Different morphs)
1.1.0 Everglades Rat Snakes
2.1.0 Baird's Rat Snakes
1.2.0 Trans-Pecos Rat Snakes
0.1.0 Trinket Rat Snake
0.1.0 Amel Pacific Gopher Snake
1.0.0 Het Amel San Diego Gopher Snake
3.1.0 Sonoran Gopher Snakes
0.1.0 Amel Sonoran Gopher Snakes
1.0.0 Mexican Black Kingsnake
2.1.0 Gray Banded Kingsnakes (1.1 River Road, 1.0 Non-Locale Specific)
0.2.0 California Kingsnakes
0.1.0 Thayeri Kingsnake
0.1.0 Florida Kingsnake
1.1.0 Boa Constrictors
0.1.0 Dumeril's Boa
1.1.0 Rosy Boas (Mexican & Mid Baja)
1.1.0 Kenyan Sand Boas
0.1.0 Indonesian Dwarf Pacific Boa
0.1.0 Tangerine Honduran Milksnake
1.0.0 Honduran Milksnake
1.1.0 Ball Pythons
1.0.0 Woma Python
1.1.0 Cape York Spotted Pythons
1.1.0 Macklot's Pythons
1.1.0 Western Hognose
1.0.0 Blacktail Cribo

LIZARDS
1.0.0 Frilled Dragon
3.1.0 Bearded Dragons (2 Normal, 1 RedXGold, 1 Citrus)
0.1.0 Eastern Collared Lizard
0.1.0 Merauke Blue Tongue Skink
1.3.0 Leopard Geckos
1.0.1 Yellow Niger Uromastyx
1.1.0 Chuckwalla
0.1.0 Banded Gecko

FROGS
2.2.0 Southern Bell Frogs
1.0.1 Green Tree Frogs
1.0.0 Bubbling Kassina
1.1.1 White's Tree Frogs
0.0.2 Gold Frogs

MacKenzie001 Jan 11, 2007 10:46 AM

Thanks a lot for the responses. Looks like I'll give it a try, but will get fecal samples to the vet first. Just to make sure I don't cause any harm to the snakes, thats the last thing I need.
Thanks again, Mak

LarryF Jan 11, 2007 05:47 PM

>>That's the whole point of this type of substrate. Once adequate levels of aerobic(good) bacteria build up, they combat the anaerobic(bad) bacteria.

But my point was that parasitic worms (nematodes being very common in captive snakes) are not bacteria. Would there be anything in this active substrate that would kill them? I doubt it...
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What goes up must come down...unless it exceeds escape velocity.

MacKenzie001 Jan 11, 2007 09:58 PM

I was under the impression that if the fecal sample came back clear or the snake was treated for any parasite found that after being treated and found free from parasites it would be ok. Is it possible for a snake to be "infected" with a parasite once in captiviy? If no new snakes are brought in or ones that are, are quarentined?
Thanks, Mak

LarryF Jan 12, 2007 12:43 AM

You are correct, as far as I know, with two caviats:
1) One negative fecal sample does not guarantee that the snake is parasite free. Occasionally, the adults may not be shedding eggs at the time the sample was "deposited".
2) It's POSSIBLE if you feed live to get parasites passed by the prey. (Possibly indirectly, say by a wild anole crapping in the mouse/rat's food bin).

I wouldn't lose too much sleep over either one, but you might consider getting another fecal done, say six months down the road. My main concern is if the snakes are not being checked in the first place, which I suspect most people don't do...
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What goes up must come down...unless it exceeds escape velocity.

viborero Jan 12, 2007 08:49 AM

"But my point was that parasitic worms (nematodes being very common in captive snakes) are not bacteria. Would there be anything in this active substrate that would kill them? I doubt it..."

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I see your point. I don't believe there's much in aspen or cypress mulch to kill them either, though. I suppose I should stress that the snakes should be healthy before being put into said set-up.
-----
Diego

Diego & Tiffany's Zoo:
SNAKES
2.4.0 Corn Snakes (Different morphs)
1.1.0 Everglades Rat Snakes
2.1.0 Baird's Rat Snakes
1.2.0 Trans-Pecos Rat Snakes
0.1.0 Trinket Rat Snake
0.1.0 Amel Pacific Gopher Snake
1.0.0 Het Amel San Diego Gopher Snake
3.1.0 Sonoran Gopher Snakes
0.1.0 Amel Sonoran Gopher Snakes
1.0.0 Mexican Black Kingsnake
2.1.0 Gray Banded Kingsnakes (1.1 River Road, 1.0 Non-Locale Specific)
0.2.0 California Kingsnakes
0.1.0 Thayeri Kingsnake
0.1.0 Florida Kingsnake
1.1.0 Boa Constrictors
0.1.0 Dumeril's Boa
1.1.0 Rosy Boas (Mexican & Mid Baja)
1.1.0 Kenyan Sand Boas
0.1.0 Indonesian Dwarf Pacific Boa
0.1.0 Tangerine Honduran Milksnake
1.0.0 Honduran Milksnake
1.1.0 Ball Pythons
1.0.0 Woma Python
1.1.0 Cape York Spotted Pythons
1.1.0 Macklot's Pythons
1.1.0 Western Hognose
1.0.0 Blacktail Cribo

LIZARDS
1.0.0 Frilled Dragon
3.1.0 Bearded Dragons (2 Normal, 1 RedXGold, 1 Citrus)
0.1.0 Eastern Collared Lizard
0.1.0 Merauke Blue Tongue Skink
1.3.0 Leopard Geckos
1.0.1 Yellow Niger Uromastyx
1.1.0 Chuckwalla
0.1.0 Banded Gecko

FROGS
2.2.0 Southern Bell Frogs
1.0.1 Green Tree Frogs
1.0.0 Bubbling Kassina
1.1.1 White's Tree Frogs
0.0.2 Gold Frogs

MacKenzie001 Jan 12, 2007 08:59 AM

Alright guys, well thanks again for the advice. I'll be sure to get the test done before setting up the enclosure and maybe at 6 months to a year down the road to make sure things are okay.
Greatly appreciated, Mak

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