Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hey I just bought my first ball python from a local pet store. He is CB and came from an expo in indianapolis. I inspected him well at the store and checked the keepers log as to his feeding habits. I got him home a few days ago and he just fed for me on a smaller than average mouse with no trouble, and all in all he seems to be a very healthy snake. I have noticed though when I handle him he has some sort of cough every now and then that you can hear and see. I thought Upper respiratory infection, but he has no other symptoms such as discharge or open mouth breathing. I am keeping his 10g tank between 80-86 during the day with around 55-70% humidity and at night the tank stays constant around 73 with a slightly higher humidity then when the lights are on. I went back to the store to ask about this and they told me that it could be because of a cologn or something and that unless he starts to act sick then he is probably alright which I am skeptical about. I am planning to take him to a vet within the next couple of weeks anyway just for a professional check. What do you guys think?

I Think 73 degrees is to cold for a night time temp. Are you using any other heat source besides a light bulb, if not invest in a under tank heat pad. You did not mention the type of top on the tank, but if it is wire mesh I would cover 90-95% or so of the outside of the top with a piece of glass or some other non-flamable material. This will limit heat lose, help hold in humidity and prevent drafts. If this is a hatchling or very young snake it does not need any type of seasonal cooling, so try to keep the air temps at 82-84 degrees day and night. The under tank heater will provide a basking spot of 88-92 degrees and the snake will thermo-regulate by moving away from and back to the hot spot. Its a good ideal to provide a hiding spot both close to the hot spot and on the cool side of the tank. I like plastic cereal bowls with a hole cut in the side. 4 for a buck at the Dollar store. And you can't go wrong with a vet check, but I would not wait a couple of weeks. Good luck. Jeff

>>I Think 73 degrees is to cold for a night time temp. Are you using any other heat source besides a light bulb, if not invest in a under tank heat pad. You did not mention the type of top on the tank, but if it is wire mesh I would cover 90-95% or so of the outside of the top with a piece of glass or some other non-flamable material. This will limit heat lose, help hold in humidity and prevent drafts. If this is a hatchling or very young snake it does not need any type of seasonal cooling, so try to keep the air temps at 82-84 degrees day and night. The under tank heater will provide a basking spot of 88-92 degrees and the snake will thermo-regulate by moving away from and back to the hot spot. Its a good ideal to provide a hiding spot both close to the hot spot and on the cool side of the tank. I like plastic cereal bowls with a hole cut in the side. 4 for a buck at the Dollar store. And you can't go wrong with a vet check, but I would not wait a couple of weeks. Good luck. Jeff

Jeff,
Thanks for the advice. I do have an undertank heater that I have a hide about half on and half off. I have about a third of the wire mesh top coverd with a piece of a garbage bag but will try the adjustments that you suggested. This is my first ball python and I was only going on the information that I researched for the couple of monthes before I bought my snake and unfortunately I never ran across any literature that told me hatchlings didn't need a cooler night temp. so thanks again for the advice, as for the vet the soonest I can get in will be this coming wednesday and I will definately be in there then. thanks again.
-Bryce

A note on the constant warm temps - a small drop in temps at night is fine, even recommended. Even when not breeding balls still need a day/night cycle, even if it's only a five degree drop. Imagine if temperatures for you were always 70-75 degrees, day or night.

~jenny
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1.2 normal ball pythons (Cindy, Darwin, and Periscope)
0.2 rescue chinese water dragons (Yoni and Linga)
1.0 rex rat (Scurvy)
1.0 gerbil (Yerbul)
0.1 neurotic mouse (Cute Girl Mousey)
1.0 escape artist mouse (Jesusmouse)
0.1 bunny (Spazz)
1.1 betta fishes (Vicious and Killer)
2.2 great danes (Shasta, Odysseus, Merlot, and Watson)
1.0 fat fuzzy mutt (Smokey)
1.1 cats (Thidwick and Turtle)
3.0 horses (Buddy, Sam, and Scout)
1.0 goat (Billy Jack)
1.25 chickens (Ugly the rooster and his harem)

The Saddest Mouse

Not trying to scare you but RI starts as a cough and as it progresses then you will notice discharge and bubbles but only as it worsens, 90% of the casses i have seen start with a slight wheez in the breath then unfold to hacking , then as it travels in the snake it will cause discharge and bubbles in the throat, also as it worsens you will see a white pasty substance developing inside the mouth, it cakes itself normally to the upper palatte and in the deep crevices near their throat.

Also as far as heat goes a basking spot of around 90-95 is great and an ambient of 85 for the hot side is good, the cool side can be around 75-78 during the day and it is ok to drop it a little at night as long as you have the heat pad on 24/7 so he still can get the heat if it is needed during the night..

Good luck with you new baby
Kim

Most homes drop in temperature at night anyways, so I wouldn't be too concerned. As far as being kept at 70-75 constantly...sign me up I would love it! But, I'm from Chicago where it is 50 when you leave for work and 16 on your way home!
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Thanks,
Amy
www.myboids.4t.com
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2.17 Normal ball pythons
1.0 Pastel ball pythons
1.0 Plains Garter
0.1 Normal Kenyan Sand Boa
2.0 Anery Kenyan Sand Boa
1.0 Mid-Baja Rosy Boa
0.1 Leucistic Texas Rat
1.2 Dumeril's Boa
My list is too long, so I'll stop here!

Hah, I'm out in SoCal where for most of the winter it's been a nice 80 degrees out
Although during summer it was so hot it was 80 degrees at night! (I didn't need to use any heat for my snakes for about three months - it was 90 degrees in the house even with the AC on...talk about miserable!)

~jenny
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1.2 normal ball pythons (Cindy, Darwin, and Periscope)
0.2 rescue chinese water dragons (Yoni and Linga)
1.0 rex rat (Scurvy)
1.0 gerbil (Yerbul)
0.1 neurotic mouse (Cute Girl Mousey)
1.0 escape artist mouse (Jesusmouse)
0.1 bunny (Spazz)
1.1 betta fishes (Vicious and Killer)
2.2 great danes (Shasta, Odysseus, Merlot, and Watson)
1.0 fat fuzzy mutt (Smokey)
1.1 cats (Thidwick and Turtle)
3.0 horses (Buddy, Sam, and Scout)
1.0 goat (Billy Jack)
1.25 chickens (Ugly the rooster and his harem)

The Saddest Mouse

Bryce,
It sounds like your on the right track. Snakes a very adaptable
animals and can tolerate a variety of conditions. If you think that your snake is developing a respiratory infection then I feel your current conditions are not right at this time. Or maybe your snake is just a little stressed out causing it to be more supsceptible to an infection. Either way as a keeper you need to attempt different things to improve the situation. If you want to narrow down what is effective and what is not; try making one change and observe its effect. If the change has no effect then you can conclude that it was not the issue. As for me I usually use more of a blanket effect. I cover as many bases as I can. This may provide the quickest solution but I am not always sure which actions were the most effective. I did a MSN weather search on both Ghana and Togo Africa. Current weather conditions are low 90's for a high and mid to low 60's for a low. Fair proof that Ball pythons can tolerate temps below 70 degrees for a period of time. But these are animals that are in their natural habitat under no more stress then they have endured for hundreds of years. In the summer time I maintain my animals at 82 degrees with a basking spot of 88-90 degress. In the cool months(south Florida) I maintain a temp of 76 degrees and no less then 75 degrees. The basking area is left at the same 87-89 degrees. My temps are consitent both night and day. I feel the least amount of change you provide, the less chance your animals will become stressed. Just because an animal can tolerate certain conditions does mean they should. I have been keeping reptiles for a very long time (thirty years) off and on and one thing I've learned is that there are many different ways to achieve the same goal. If your animal is happy and healthy under particular circumstances then great, if it is not make a change to find what works. Keep trying, keep learning and good luck.

Jeff