Reptile & Amphibian Forums

hey all,

so i got my new racks fom reptile basics and they are sweet, now my question for you all is, i have never used back heat before. i have it all hooked up to my HelixDBS1000, and i was wondering if, w/ backheat should i put the temps on the helix up a few more notches to make sure that the heat is sufficient, i am shooting for 85 so i set it to 88 and it seems like it is working but i just wanted to double check

thanks
Adam

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4.5 THAYERI
1.2 SPLENDIDA
1.3 ALTERNA
0.0.1 HOLD BACK RUNT ALBINO CORN
0.1.1 PYXIE FROG
0.0.1 MEXICAN RED KNEE
1.0 CHILEAN ROSE HAIR

85F bit too warm. Day time high of 82F all they need.
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Dan
www.SerpentsOnline.com

Thanks Dan,

the only reason i raised the temp is because my apartment can get alittle cold up here in Vermont, but do you think that i should raise the temp alittle past where i want it with the back heat or should they be fine? i have only used belly heat so i am not sure

Adam

by the way that "classic" female i got from you is doing awesome
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4.5 THAYERI
1.2 SPLENDIDA
1.3 ALTERNA
0.0.1 HOLD BACK RUNT ALBINO CORN
0.1.1 PYXIE FROG
0.0.1 MEXICAN RED KNEE
1.0 CHILEAN ROSE HAIR

Thayeri tolerate cooler temps with ease. These are montane / high desert reptiles. Even in the summer months, the evening temps in their habitat can be quite cool. I remember road hunting one late July night in Nuevo Leon with the car heater on because it was so cold. Not sure what the ambient temp is in your herp room but mine is 68F at night and 74F during the day. The Helix is set to 75F at night, and 82F during the day. Hope this helps Adam.

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Dan
www.SerpentsOnline.com

I have heard (I believe on here) that temps over 83 can kill the males sperm. Does any one know if that's true?
Ken

My understanding is much the same... constant exposure to temps in the mid 80's and above has a negative effect on male fertility as well as the development of the embryos in the female if they can't escape it. Consistent higher temps also create a condition of constant stress overall. They prefer to cool off considerably when they don't need the heat.

I know you also like the wild looking thayeri Ken, so I thought I'd show you a couple buckskin you might like. This is a 2003 dark buckskin female with a fairly nice saddle pattern.....

She began life with a ground color much like this 2006 female below, only she was a shade darker burnt orange.....

The nice orange in this young 2006 female has already begun to fade to buckskin, in the end she should be a much lighter buckskin color than the female in the top pic, with those split saddles she should look pretty good. I like the retro look of the buckskin color.
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Mike

Thanks for the pics Mike. Those are some awesome looking snakes. I especially like the bronze look of the first one. I also like the high band count, and gorgeous color of the second. Beautiful animals.
Ken

Thanks Ken, glad you like 'em. The top one is the 2003 sib sister to Chris G's Molten Velma, both daughters to his female Mildred. Their father was a nice orange milksnake phase, she has good orange potential but I think I'll concentrate more on that bronze look with her. I have a VR F1 male with that similar color, he's just a shade lighter and cleaner with very even and bright orange saddle pattern... I think he's the one. I really do like the shades of buckskin, brown, bronze with bright saddle color about as much as anything else.

That younger female, bottom pic, will grow out of that nice orange and be another nice buckskin-colored snake which is why I bought her. You'll see an entirely different colored snake the next time I take a few photos. I have a buckskin Vermilya male with those wide-split saddles and rich center color... sure hope this female grows up fast!
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Mike

Those are beautiful! That 1st female is awesome and i like the split bands on the second.
thanks for sharing the pic's, you have great photo skills.
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Michelle

Thanks Michelle, as always your words are much too kind but that's part of what makes you such a good friend to all living things! And quite honestly, my photo skills are horrible. I'm just lucky that I get a reasonable shot or two out of about every 50 or so! Of course shooting indoors doesn't help matters much. I need to get my animals outdoors in natural light.
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Mike

Yeah that defiantly helps knowing the temps of your room, we have been having a wacky winter her in New England as i am sure you know, so that helps. i have the temps stable in the rack now so i will be moving in the juvies tonight, after their sunday night dinner, thanks again Dan,

Adam

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4.5 THAYERI
1.2 SPLENDIDA
1.3 ALTERNA
0.0.1 HOLD BACK RUNT ALBINO CORN
0.1.1 PYXIE FROG
0.0.1 MEXICAN RED KNEE
1.0 CHILEAN ROSE HAIR

Really nice Adam. The msp's are my favorite over the leonis, it is all ways good to see photo's of them.
thanks for sharing the pic'

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Michelle

I have the reptile basics "sweaterbox" size rack. I have my Helix set at 94 degrees. According to my digital therm the temp is 88 degrees when touching the back of the Iris tub, 85 degrees within an inch or so of the back, and about 73 degrees at the front of the tub.

I really recommend testing the temps at the front and the back. Also, you might want to buy a hygrometer to test the humidity, mine was high so I drilled small holes in the front of the tub.