Reptile & Amphibian Forums

been asked recently but I can't find the answer I am looking for.
This is my first beardie. Just switched it to sand, bought a new thermometer with a probe like several people suggested and it works great!! I have a really simple set up just because money has gotten tight and I haven't been able to do what I want yet. Sand, Basking wood, heat lamp hot side between 100 and 110 cool about 60 or 70 just because the house gets cold. He's 16 inches long and probably about 6 or 7 months.
He's stopped eating. Wont touch anything. Not even his greens. NOTHING, plus I think he's losing weight. I haven't had a scale but now I do.
First question is: How can I provide nutrition while I figure out how to get him to a proper vet.
Second question is: how much should he weigh for that length?

THanks!
Sam and a not so happy Morwyn

size of tank ?

does he poo ? is she drinking ?

No poo. I suppose that is due to no eating, being that there's nothing to digest. yes on the drinking. Infact I've been told he's weird because I'll put him in his bath and he'll drink...in fact he drinks alot.

The cool end of the tank is rather low...it may be very hard to keep up the basking temps if the rest of the tank drops down to 60F often. I suggest at night, providing supplimental heating, either by using a 'night bulb' type bulb which produces non visible light (infrared range) or a non light producing heat source, such as a ceramic heat emitter or under tank heating pad. Or, increase the temperatures in the room the dragon is in so the night time temp is in the low 70's (70-75F) at night and high 70's and low 80's during the day (76-83F).
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PHLdyPayne

I have an undertank heating pad but have been worried about using it because i have read that beardies don't have good heat sensation on their bellies. but if its under the sand and everything it should be okay right ldypayne? I mean it shouldn't get too terribly hot over there if i use it... I just don't want him to get hurt.

I've read that just to be safe you should put reptile carpet under the sand if you are using an undertank heater. The pads have thermostats but the carpet will protect him in case of malfunction.

It really depends on what type of heating pad and how old it is. Some come with built in thermostats which will allow you some control over the heat output (I think these are actually more like a dimmer switch). If you don't have the reptile type heating pads, human heating pads can be used, providing you do not put any weight directly onto the pad. (ie prop up the end of the tank a quarter inch and slide the heating pad into the space.

Regardless of which type of heating pad you are using, it cannot be buried in the substrate. To help prevent overheating, making sure there is air flow around the heating pad will ensure temperatures don't get too hot (it can crack glass aquariums if the tank is lying directly ontop of the pad (or the pad is glued to the bottom of the tank and both are flat on a table).

Raising the tank a quarter to half inch above the heating pad, will ensure some air flow gets underneath the tank and keep the heating pad from getting so hot it will crack the glass. This will also help prevent the heating pad itself getting too hot and shorting out, risking a fire.

Using a heat pad with a built in thermometer or at least a 'high, med, low' switch, will make it easier to regulate. I use human heating pads with three settings and without the auto shutoff feature for my snakes. I keep the thermometers on the low setting and these never seem to get hotter than 95F which is good for most of my snakes.

As you don't need your heating pad on constantly (additional heating in the daytime can be provided with another house hold bulb or a ceramic heat emitter.) you can put it on a timer so it only comes on when the lights go out and turns off again not long after lights come back on.
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PHLdyPayne

thanks for all your info

ive should of metioned this dragon has a neroglical problem there for she can not eat food on her own . shes about 6 month's old shes 10 inches
she poos becuase i feed and water her by hand . and really i would think wax worms would just help her chew food better
but im not saying im going to give them to her the rest of her life .
i know a great doctor so when i get the money shes going strait there anyway some time next week
( i got her from a great friend who they were going to put her down becuase of her how she is .. so they gave us to her to see what we can do .. so im really just trying

and im going to take her to the vet and ask them what is best for her can be be saved and this or that or is it better to inuthinze her ... so shes in peace .

christina
( any opinion's greatly helpful

When you say she can't eat on her own do you means she can't chew? Or she can't chase the food? Or can she not see correctly?

I think you should go with silk worms instead of waxworms. They are a soft caterpillar and grow larger. They are so soft there is really no risk of impaction. Therefore, you can feed her fewer bigger bugs and 99% of Dragons love them.