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New to snakes.

squidhat Jan 26, 2007 08:43 PM

As the title states, I am completely new to snakes. I have only even been around them a few times in my life, but I do distinctly remember liking them and being fascinated in the care and time involved in keeping these pets.

I am pretty set on the idea of getting a snake and I heard that Corn's were the best for beginners but im in love with kings so I thought I would take the challenge. I also know through caring for animals all my life that no matter how many care sheets you read and no matter how much you research, it's always different the day you bring your dream pet home.

SO, this is where coming here comes in. I was wondering if anyone would share with me there experiences owning one of these snakes, what they like/dislike and and habits or behaviors that might be specific to the snake itself.

I was also wondering if like cats and rodents, King snakes in specific have individually strong/weak personalities and if choosing your snake based on that is necessarily a good idea.

I was also curious what some people found works best for housing, bedding, care during shedding and things like that as suggestions from web sites don't always agree with the individual pet.

Sorry about the lengthiness but I have alot to learn before getting what will be my first cold blooded pet. I greatly appreciate any help and suggestions.

Much thanks
Amber

Replies (24)

Bluerosy Jan 26, 2007 09:16 PM

Amber,

Welcome to the forum. Hope you will stick around and learn some thing before getting your first snake. Remember all of us started somehwere , so don't be afraid to ask some questions.

For now you should read some posts by FR or use the search function for things like brumation, breeding, housing, bedding ect.

Snakes in general are not like a pet dog or cat. They have completly different needs from a domestic "pet". Things like handling can stress a snake out. Feeding and temps are two things you should focus on while browsing these forums.

You can start by purchasing a snake from a reputable breeder and not a pet shop. Most breeders will be happy to answer any questions you may have of your new pet.

Housing for a neonate kingsnake does not have to be big (for now) becausde a large cage might make the snake feel insecure. Something like a rubbermaid shoebox is really all you need and an heat strip. I prefer the heat strips over lamps because the snake can choose the temps (thermoregulate) he/she wants.

Good luck. And I think any kingsnake except the mountain kings is a good choice for a beginner.

here are a few to choose from:
Flrorida kings (aka brooks kings
eastern kings (large)
California kings (most avaliable)
black kings (pretty)

Gophersnake13 Jan 26, 2007 09:20 PM

Well Amber, you came to the right place. There are a plethora of caresheets and other sources of information on kingsnakes on this site. First thing is that the care of corn snakes and kingsnakes is rather similar. The only difference being that Kingsnakes will eat other snakes, thus needing to be kept separately (plus keep it confined to this forum but king snakes are like ten times cooler lol). They will require a minimum of a 20 gallon tank when full grown, and your probably better off to start out with a 10 gallon tank if you decide to get a hatchling. I use paper towels, but news paper, aspen bark chips (not cedar), newspaper, and depending on who you talk to comercial bark chips from your pet store. For heating I prefer a heat pad, or in the case of my house in the winter a combo of a heat pad and a spot light. I opt for the heat pad by itself in the summer though (btw a temp of about 82-87 on the warm side and about 72-75 on the cooler side works well for me it keeps the snakes thermoregulating so they will be healthier). They require a decent sized bowl of water, and a secure hiding spot on both the side with the heat pad and w/out the heat pad (use flat cork bark, or something that the snake can squeeze under it will feel more secure this way). Make sure the lid is very secure as like corn snakes, kingsnakes are adept at escaping their enclosures. But don't just read this and go off and buy a snake, make sure you read other posts and also books. Some that I would recommend are Snakes (By Dick Barlett) And the Corn Snake book by Kathy Love, although its a corn book it has information that is very valuable to the beginning hobbyist. Good Luck and here are some pics of my brooksi kings.

-----
-J.Hill

Bluerosy Jan 26, 2007 09:36 PM

They will require a minimum of a 20 gallon tank when full grown, and your probably better off to start out with a 10 gallon tank if you decide to get a hatchling.

I beleive that a 10 galoon set up is to large for a neonate snake. It will be harder for the snake to feel secure and to choose its hide spot. Most neonates are secretive because thats what they have to do in the wild. When a king gets bigger it comes out of the open more to select a proper temp gradient. A small encloser like a shobox or critter cage will make find its food easier as well.

I would also think a 20 gallon is to big for most kingsnakes (except for the eastern kings and florida kings). But it will probably take a novice 3-5 years to get a snake to attain this length because of food avaliablity. Unless the keeper can get off a schedule and instead feed the snake whenever its hungry it will not grow that fast. Thats where the expeirence comes in.

squidhat Jan 26, 2007 10:01 PM

I have a minimum of a year of reaserch before I get any type of animal. I know I would want the person caring for me to know as much as they can before hand. Also, the only animals I have had bad luck with are the ones I didn't take at least a year with.

The King I am most interested was I think referred to as a California scarlet king snake. I'm not sure if that is the actual breed name or just what the owner was told. I just know the snake was very pretty and surprisingly people friendly.

I was wondering about the "Bedding." I am allergic to Pine and Ceder of all kinds and I wanted something a but more natural than carpet or Astroturf, and more aesthetic than newspaper. But I will use whatever is acceptable given the circumstances. I had a pair of Hermit crabs a while back and I used a soft type of beach sand as bedding and I was wondering if that was ok for a snake. The stuff I used was really soft and unbleached so I can't see much in the way of irritation happening. Although I'm open to the fact that im probably wrong and that isn't a good idea but I thought I would check.

And as far as handling, I wasn't aware that it could stress a snake out, so what is an acceptable level of handling and is there a specific time its okay, and when should I avoid it altogether? I know after feeding its a no no and I would imagine during there hibernation time its not really a good idea.

And this is something I haven't read anything about, but are King snakes prone to biting and are they venomous at all?

Also, (sorry about the rambling questions ha ha) I read that feeding about once every 10 days is good, is that right? and With the mention of making your snake grow in a previous response, say I wanted to do that, how would I go about it? and how can you tell if your snake is hungry to avoid spoiled food or overfeeding.

Much thanks
Amber

antelope Jan 26, 2007 11:26 PM

Wow, Amber, slow down, lol, you said you have a year!!! Anyways welcome and glad you are here. You can avoid a lot of questions by reading back posts on this and previous pages but we will answer some if not all of your questions. First learn to be a lurker, one who reads but doesn't speak as much. Not meant to be rude, but many if not all of your questions have been answered many times before, so be patient with us as well. There are many levels of keepers on these forums. Second, no king snakes are venomous, just king cobras and king brown snakes, not native here! Next, you shouldn't handle after meals for a few days. A lot of people get by with once a week feedings for adults that aren't breeding. You should read back post labeled Silver spoons 1 and 2. It shows many ideas about how often and what kinds of food are good for maximum growth. I have never heard of a California scarlet snake, but there are Cal kings, scarlet kings and scarlet snakes, Cal kings, Mexican black kings, and desert kings are medium sized snakes found in the western half of the U.S. I like them all but have a soft spot for the MBK's as being hardy. Speckled king and black kings inhabit the middle regions of the U.S., and the eastern kings in the east and the Florida kings in the south. Most baby snakes poop and musk when frightened so be prepared for a little on ya', most soon outgrow it when they get accustomed to you. Let's stop there and maybe you can do a little lurking and do some homework, we appreciate people more when they undertake some of this themselves. Visit the other forums as well, as many of us are dual keepers, and the kings are subdivided even further on subforums. Have fun and learn,learn,learn!!!
Todd Hughes

antr1 Jan 26, 2007 11:45 PM

Be prepared for many different answers to your questions. Many people have different opinions and husbandry techniques ( a fancy word for caring for your animal). The majority of colubrids have the same needs, yet slightly tailored to where the snake naturally would be found. Desert animals require higher temps and lower humidity for example where a mountainous snake will require cooler temperatures.

Sand doesn’t usually make for a good bedding as a snake, especially a small one can swallow the sand as it eats. The sand can cause a blockage in the snakes digestive tract. Cedar is a definite no no as the oil in it is harmful to snakes. Newspaper and paper towels are fine for the snake, but they are not visually pleasing to people. There are a few paper based products available at pet stores that are dye and chemical free and should be a decent alternative.

I always like a larger enclosure then other suggested. In the wild a snake would have a seemingly endless amount of space. The catch with this is that in the wild a snake would also have an endless supply of hiding spots. If you use a larger enclosure, be sure to provide many hiding spots. Also remember that snakes are escape artists. If there is a way out they will find it. They don’t have much to do in an enclosure other then look for a way out.

Many hatchling snakes may bite, although it is usually nothing more then annoying, and most snakes will usually out grow this. It is difficult to say what is an acceptable amount of handling. I like to handle my snakes every 3 days or so, and not usually for 2 days after they have eaten.

Personally my first snakes were a California King snake (black and white banded) and a Mexican Black Kingsnake. Both are decent sized as babies, definitely larger then a corn, and usually voracious eaters. Their size and care are very similar, neither will get overly large, reaching roughly 4 feet.

VicsVariables Jan 27, 2007 12:52 AM

Very good advice. I also would like to suggest that, for a first snake, you might be better off getting a slightly older pet instead of a baby. My first pet snake was a well-established yearling and I was more comfortable with him than I would have been with a hatchling.
I love my kings. I think you'll enjoy yours, too. Best of luck.
Vicky

Gophersnake13 Jan 27, 2007 06:37 AM

Well, I doubt the animal was labeled correctly, if you could describe it to us we could surely tell you what it was. A scarlet king snake is a small snake that is either red white and blak or red yellow and black, these are typically harder to start out and are more expensive than a californian kingsnake. A california kingsnake can come in a multitude of colors and patters, the most common being either black and white banded or black with a white stripe going down the middle. There are also albino, abberant, reverse stripes, bananas, and high whites plus any combo of these you can think of. If you can't use wood chips, I can suggest care fresh bedding. It is more commonly used with small mammals than reptiles but it is highly absorbant and I've heard that it works wonders. I've also heard that it keeps the animal hidden more than normal and can be dusty. The only problem I've seen with sand is that with frozen/thawed feeders the sand tends to stick to the mouse making its way into the digestive system and potentially causeing impactions. Other than that people have had mixed results sand. I would'nt see a problem however if feeding live mice which would be much less likely to get sand stuck to it. Although I can't recommend this as I have never used sand for anything other than lizards. I just like paper towels which leads me to answer your question about having a snake grow more quickly. On a 1 every ten day feeding schedule your snake will likely not grow fast at all, this will not mean its unealthy, just that its growing rate will be lowered. Usually for non-breeding animals its safe to go with one appropriately sized feeder every 6-7 days. If you wanted to accelerate growth, then a slightly smaller than appropriate feeder every time the animal defecates is what I've found to work. Make sure you get that book too it will make most of this information available right at your finger tips, although some stuff that is debatable you can read here and make up your own mind.
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-J.Hill

rbichler Jan 27, 2007 10:15 AM

Hi Amber,

>>I was wondering about the "Bedding." I am allergic to Pine and Ceder of all kinds and I wanted something a but more natural than carpet or Astroturf, and more aesthetic than newspaper. But I will use whatever is acceptable given the circumstances. I had a pair of Hermit crabs a while back and I used a soft type of beach sand as bedding and I was wondering if that was ok for a snake. The stuff I used was really soft and unbleached so I can't see much in the way of irritation happening. Although I'm open to the fact that im probably wrong and that isn't a good idea but I thought I would check.
>>>>Much thanks
>>Amber

SAND
I’ve been housing, snakes for about twelve years now on sand. I have tried different kinds of sand. The play sand has too many fines in it, could be harmful if the snake ingested to much at once. Be careful when feeding that the mice aren't damp where the sand will stick to the rodent. another problem with fine sand is the fines absorb up to much moisture, so a 1” feces spot will turn into a 3” spot, big coarse sands,(gravel)don't absorb anything, I use a, (cleaned dust free) Monterey #3/12 grade kiln dried sand (its a smooth beach sand more or less). it’s kind of hard to find, I buy it at industrial supply stores, or sand and gravel supply. It’s used for sandblasting, it’s about $12.00 for 90 lb. Bag. (I've also seen it in pet shops, $10.00 for a 10 lb bag. lol); Retains heat well, doesn't dry out reptiles skin like wood shavings might. I think it’s easy to clean, all I use, is a plastic spoon and paper plate, just scoop it out and try to pick up most of moisture when cleaning. I have never had a problem with any of my snakes getting sick or dying yet. Just be careful when feeding that they don't digest a bunch of substrait. Some of the general care and maintenance books view sand as, (quote; a attractive, natural-looking and easily changeable ground medium.) They only talk about certain types of wood shavings (Quote: cedar, redwood and some snake keepers have suggested pine shaving are potentially harmful to snakes)) Maybe I'm missing something here but I believe most snakes live on, and in dirt and sandy soils.
I work construction, and the Three worst things to dry out my hands are working in dirt, wet concrete, and beleive it or not, handling lumber like 2by4s for a day or two.
I posted a post, a year or so back, asking Breeders this question;
(How many colubrid keepers have proven facts or statistics comparing sand and wood chips or shavings. Maybe we could here from some keepers who keep their snakes on wood substrate, about what kind of sheds their snakes have.
I am really interested in hearing from keepers who have had problems with sand and not hear-say.)

HERE WERE A THREE REPLYS (OUT OF THREE):
RE: Good perspective
Posted by: (XXXX)at Mon Mar 6 14:45:30 2006 Email Message ]
I like that you bring a different point of view to the substrate subject.

Although I find sand to be heavy and a nuisance to use in a house on nice clean carpet, I've done some experimenting with it on kingsnakes and rosyboas. Overall, sand is the among the best material to heat with a substrate heater IMO. And curiously, kingsnakes that I thought would have shed problems didn't. Rosies thrived on it (no surprise there.)

And of course as usual, I relate the lower Baja rattler that has been housed in an acrylic aquarium for the last 23 years with nothing but sand and the snake in it.

I've also had a few snakes with problems that went away once I switched them from aspen to sand or other non-wood product - a grayband with runny nose and 2 different rosies that were regurging. I truly think that these individuals were sensitive to the aspen (or the conditions it created) because of their rapid turnaround once removed from the material.

(#2)
------------------------------------------------------------------
SAND
RE: Good perspective
Posted by: (XXXXXX) at Wed Mar 8 09:47:05 2006
I have to say I totally agree with you about the sand. As well, I have had several problems with my kings on aspen or pine bedding. Especially if it has broken down into little bits - it seems to give my snakes allergies. I have now had three kings that, while on the aspen, with cage temps ranging from 70 - 81 degrees, get alot of mucus in their throat and noses. When I have switched them off of that to the turf, two days later they are fine.

#3)

Posted by: (XXXXXX)at Thu Mar 9 12:15:45 2006
I'm thinking about it for my holbrooki, and I keep glass lizards on it, they love to burrow in it. All my other snakes are on aspen, except my subocs, which are on native dirt and rock substrate. I have not noticed any illness, but it is kinda dry, except when they spill their waterbowls. Then it is a cause for concern, mold may form quickly, in my case.
Todd Hughes

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R.Bichlers Colubrids
http://www.webspawner.com/users/rbichler/index.html

Bluerosy Jan 27, 2007 12:48 PM

Rbichler,

I think where most of us get confused with your posts on sand is you keep your snakes on gravel. You just call it sand.

Either way from a maintenance perspective it not the easiest, cleanest or most cost effective. Back in the 60's and 70's thats all I used to keep my snakes on. While it looks great in a terrarium (thats why zoos use it), I switched to pine or aspen shavings later on and BOY.. it made things a lot easier for me. You have to remember why most all larger breeders use shavings or newspaper. For display purposes and having a small collection (IF you put in the time cleaning and keeping a watchful eye)its fine and i don't have a problem with it. However smallers neonates might be in the open a little to much causing stress. Thats why i prefer shaving or aspen for snakes that are more secretive. They like to tunnel in it. But the downside is if you keep your snakes for display purposes you never see the little devils.

I also still keep shovelnose snakes in sand and like you mentioned glass lizards as well. Fun species to work with and extremely easy to keep. But these are insect eaters and do not leave a mess like a large eastern king will leave behind.

rbichler Jan 27, 2007 02:43 PM

>>Rbichler,
>>
>>I think where most of us get confused with your posts on sand is you keep your snakes on gravel. You just call it sand.
>>
WEll it might look like gravel to you, but out in California we call it sand, lol. It might look like gravel, because I used a zoom shot to take some of the pictures, but it is #2/12 grit sand, the same sand that is on our California Beaches up and down the coast, its just cleaned and sized. This pitictular sand is made bagged by Montery Sand Co. Near the city of Montery (also known as sand city)lol, Anyway, I just get tired of people knocking sand, everything does have its bad points,(newspaper/ink fumes)(Paper towels/Bleach fumes) (wood shavings/dust,fumes,and spilters in the mouth). Everyone has their own preferences, I have about 30 snakes and perfer SAND!!!!!LOL
PS I have tried shavings, but that stuff got everywhere, pick up the lid to fast, and it flies out of the box.lol.

Have a great weekend

-----
R.Bichlers Colubrids
http://www.webspawner.com/users/rbichler/index.html

Bluerosy Jan 27, 2007 04:18 PM

That still looks like the same gravel avaliable at pet shops and places like Hermosa reptile back in the 60's and 70's when it was a popular substrate. Maybe its your camera but the gravel looks to scale next to the snakes.

Sand scale:

rbichler Jan 27, 2007 05:41 PM

>>That still looks like the same gravel avaliable at pet shops and places like Hermosa reptile back in the 60's and 70's when it was a popular substrate. Maybe its your camera but the gravel looks to scale next to the snakes.
>>
>>Sand scale:
>>

How about this for a scale, Do you still consider this gravel?LOL

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R.Bichlers Colubrids
http://www.webspawner.com/users/rbichler/index.html

Bluerosy Jan 27, 2007 11:25 PM

np

chrish Jan 27, 2007 11:34 PM

That stuff looks like what they sell as blasting sand here in TX. It is kind of a large grained sand, as opposed to the finer grained playground sand.

That may be the source of the confusion?
-----
Chris Harrison
San Antonio, Texas

rbichler Jan 28, 2007 02:07 AM

LOL; Looks like someone else has had this discussion before!
I found these pharagraphs on the RMC Lonestar website.I copied and pasted just as you see it!

"The terms "sand" and "gravel" are sometimes interchanged by aquarists. In my case, Texblast #2 is actually sandblasting "sand", about 1/16" diameter,
but many aquarists use it as their "gravel" of choice.
Technically speaking, "sand" is a particle size description, and soil
scientists classify any grain size between 0.05-2.0 mm diameter as "sand".
Texblast #2 does indeed qualify as "sand". I believe the next largest size
is "boulder", which is any particle over 2.0 mm."

Thank you,

-----
R.Bichlers Colubrids
http://www.webspawner.com/users/rbichler/index.html

Bluerosy Jan 28, 2007 11:51 AM

this is my idea of sand.

Its nothing but trouble for keeping non-sand burrowing snakes on. I love it for banded geckos, sandkes and shovelnose snakes.

rbichler Jan 28, 2007 01:06 PM

>>this is my idea of sand.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Its nothing but trouble for keeping non-sand burrowing snakes on. I love it for banded geckos, sandkes and shovelnose snakes.
>>
Nice Brooksi
Yea, That looks like the calium sand they sell in the pet shops, I don't care for it either because it has to many fines in it. It would be fine for lizards.
Here's my wild girl,(feeding machine) who goes nuts during gestation. Comes two feet straight up out of the box to get her food, if your not fast enough on delivery.

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R.Bichlers Colubrids
http://www.webspawner.com/users/rbichler/index.html

Gophersnake13 Jan 28, 2007 10:20 AM

I think its sand but it looks as if larger darker particles and larger lighter particles were mixed in.
-----
-J.Hill

chrish Jan 27, 2007 02:05 PM

I have a minimum of a year of reaserch before I get any type of animal.

I think a year might be overkill. If you are consciencious and do good research (i.e. get some of the good books recommened to you, don't just ask questions on or read online "care" sheets), you will be ready to select and care for a snake in a few weeks. Of course, your timetable is your business.

The King I am most interested was I think referred to as a California scarlet king snake.

First of all, the snake you are referring to is probably the California Mountain Kingsnake. They are tricolored (red/black/yellow) as you describe. However, I don't recommend this species as a first snake. They are generally docile and are pretty, but they aren't an "easy" snake to keep. Being docile isn't necessarily a good litmus test for a good beginner snake.

If you want a tricolor snake, like the Mtn. King, I suggest you look at something like a Mexican Milksnake or Sinaloan Milksnake. Both are hardy and easy to keep and are docile. The babies are a bit wiggly, but in general they calm down quickly. There are lot of other milksnakes, but many of them are too high strung for beginners.

I was wondering about the "Bedding." I am allergic to Pine and Ceder of all kinds and I wanted something a but more natural than carpet or Astroturf, and more aesthetic than newspaper. But I will use whatever is acceptable given the circumstances. I had a pair of Hermit crabs a while back and I used a soft type of beach sand as bedding and I was wondering if that was ok for a snake.

The best bedding is Aspen shavings. Sand may look good but it is almost impossible to keep clean since fecal material and urates tend to get ground up in to powder by the sand and end up being impossible to remove. So unless you are prepared to replace all the sand when the snake defecates, you might want to try something a little more hygenic.

And as far as handling, I wasn't aware that it could stress a snake out, so what is an acceptable level of handling and is there a specific time its okay, and when should I avoid it altogether?

You have to understand one basic precept - snakes are shy and NO snakes enjoy handling. Some tolerate it very well, and the exercise may be good for them if they are normally in a cramped cage, but they don't like it in the way a social dog or cat would. So understand you are handling the snake to make yourself happy and that the snake would just as soon be left alone.
Does that mean you can't handle it? Of course not, but don't anthropomorphize that the animal is enjoying the experience in the same way you are.

And this is something I haven't read anything about, but are King snakes prone to biting and are they venomous at all?

This is the problem with reading care sheets online. You get little snippets of information here and there, but don't get it all. No they aren't venomous and any snake with a mouth can bite.
Some kingsnakes do bite. In my experience (and I've kept almost every type), Cal Kings are the most likely to bite. Florida Kings are probably the least likely. If never being bitten is one of your criteria, don't get a Cal King. Some never bite, some never calm down.

I read that feeding about once every 10 days is good, is that right? and With the mention of making your snake grow in a previous response, say I wanted to do that, how would I go about it? and how can you tell if your snake is hungry to avoid spoiled food or overfeeding.

This is a very contentious issue. If you want to see how experienced people disagree, try going down a few posts and read the two posts about the "Silver Spoon Hypothesis". I generally err on the side of caution and don't feed my snakes more than 3 times a month. But I also don't feed them with absolute regularity either. Sometimes they eat 3x month, sometimes 5x month, and sometimes only once a month. I have been using this staggered schedule for many, many years and my snakes thrive. I used to use the every 10 days for adults, every 5 days for babies and that worked as well.

Good luck. Remember to consider people's experience when you consider their advice. When someone tells you "I have a _____ King and it has never ________ in the ______ months/years I have had it", that might be good advice.
But it could also be a fluke. (For example - I don't care what you read on some posts, many Cal Kings are quite nippy, compared to other subspecies of common kingsnake. How do I know? I've had half a dozen adults and bred them for several years.)

You are far better reading a book written by an expert, such as Kathy Love's cornsnake book, because it is based on decades experience with thousands of snakes.
-----
Chris Harrison
San Antonio, Texas

Orocosos Jan 28, 2007 12:32 PM

I would not recommend the use of a small-grain substrate like sand. In the past, I have used crushed walnut shells (similar to sand but with larger grain size) and my cal king has the bad habit of getting the grains stuck around his eyes. Normally, I use a combination of Reptibark and the Aspen shavings simply because Aspen shavings alone are really dusty.

Handling, obviously can stress a snake out. Personally, I don't handle my cal king more than twice per day. After feeding I usually leave him alone for a day or two because he's still in his feeding mode. Once, I tried to handle him a few hours after a feeding, and he bit me.

As to whether or not kingsnakes are prone to biting, I think it depends on the individual snake. Some are more defensive than others. Young snakes may be prone to biting until they become used to being handled. Kingsnakes are not venomous, but bites from larger snakes sting a little.

The important thing to remember about handling a new snake is to try and be consistent with your methods. Don't attempt to pick the snake up and then jerk back (even though this is sometimes very difficult) if the snake is startled or becomes defensive. Snakes are prey for a lot of animals, and a great many of them attack from above.

I generally feed my snake about once or twice a week. There may be times when a snake will refuse food, and if that happens, I would recommend asking another person more experienced with brumation. I don't brumate mine.

I hope this helps!

Gophersnake13 Jan 27, 2007 06:20 AM

True, but I've found most people a little squeemish about using small rubbermaid style containers. I keep my hatchlings in six quart sized sterlite tubs, but for most people a 10 gallon is the smallest, easiest of the small containers to obtain. I used aquariums as an example because most "pet" snakes are kept in this way. It will be better if you can get a 5 gallon or even a 2 1/2 gallon aquarium but these are not as easy to find.
-----
-J.Hill

DMong Jan 26, 2007 11:19 PM

Welcome to the forum Amber!,.....I agree with most of what has been said regarding your new adventure into snakes. However,..it is somewhat difficult to get a firm handle on MANY of the very important aspects of snake keeping by getting bits and pieces of information. Don't get me wrong, you will find like the other post said, a vast amount of information here on the forum, there is no doubt, but please take a little friendly advice, and go get yourself a little inexpensive booklet on Kingsnakes. This will make things SO MUCH EASIER for you to understand, because you will be able to start at the beginning from the introduction, and follow step by step with the different sections in a meaningful order. Also,a book or two will allow you to "REFER" to the different contents any time you wish...Don't think from all this that snakes are hard to keep, the fact is that most snakes, and definitely kingsnakes are very easy to keep and maintain,...BUT, there are absolutely a few things that are EXTREMELY important in in regards to keeping them. I've been "into" snakes for forty years now, and they are a very large gratifying part of my life. I'm sure you will find them to be a very worthwhile hobby!!!...best regards,.......Doug

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Better to be silent and thought a fool, than to open mouth and remove any doubt!

Royreptile Jan 27, 2007 09:48 AM

Amber,
Kingsnakes are rewarding and beautiful captives; in my opinion they are far more intersting than the the rat snakes, such as the corn snake. I highly recommend the California kingsnake, they are beautiful, hardy, and also come in a variety of different colors,and patterns. I acquired my first snake, a California kingsnake, when I was only three years old. I am now 16, and I still have that very same snake; she is very healthy and in incredibly good shape!
Good Luck!
-Roy
-----
Roy Blodgett

1.1 Drymarchon corais
0.1 Coluber mormon
1.0 Masticophis flagellum piceus (black phase)
1.1 Lampropeltis getula californiae (desert phase)
0.1 Candoia aspera (red phase)
0.1 Corytophanes cristatus
1.1 Pogona vitticeps (snow and red/gold)
1.0 Iguana iguana

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