Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I finally brought the snake to a vet last Wednesday. He drew some blood and swabbed her mouth. On Friday, I was up there again and he said that she did indeed have a respiratory infection and a mild case of mouth rot. He gave her a shot, cleaned her mouth out with some kind of anti-septic, and sent me home with some anti-septic mouth wash to be used daily. Today I took her to the vet's office for another shot. She's scheduled for one more shot this Friday, and then a thorough checkup.

She has her energy back, the swelling in her throat has significantly decreased, and although her mouth is still swollen, her lips close all the way. Her eyes are beginning to cloud over and her skin has a dull appearance. Hopefully she'll shed soon.

I have the light set on a timer, a new thermostat installed, and a much smaller humidifier that I modified so that it could be adjusted easily and safely. Her bedding, hides, and everything else has been replaced with newspapers and plastic bowls for the sake of keeping the cage clean and sterile.

As soon as I have the resources together, I will start building a larger cage for her, but not out of glass. I'm wanting to build a wooden enclosure that is long enough for her when she's full grown, with dividers in place that can be moved as she grows. I'm looking into other methods of heating such a cage, and any modifications I may need in order to incorporate the thermostat, humidifier, light, and ventilation. I intend to use Plexiglas in the front, but with a hinged door, not a sliding door. If all goes as planned, I'll have what I need in about a month, two months at the latest.

The temperature in the cage has stabilized and the humidity only fluctuates by 5% or less. I can only hope that things will get better.

Great news!!

For heating a wooden enclosure, I have some I made for my BRB's (lower heat requirement) and tried a few methods of heating. Methods I know of for heating to Boa temps:

Heat tape - under floor of cage. Best installation would be to cut away floor around heat tape and install thin subfloor. Heat tape wpon't work well through the full thickness of cage floor.

Ceramic heat element - Installed on ceiling pointed down WITH bulb guard. Works well for warming entire cage and providing basking spot.

Radient Heat Panel - IMO best solution, also most expensive as well. The RHP does not get overly hot and provides gentle heat.
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Thanks,

Dave Colling

www.rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com

0.1 Wife (WC)
0.2 kids (CBB, a big part of our selective breeding program)

LOL, to many snakes to list, last count:
13.24 BRB
12.14 BCI
And those are only the breeders

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

Dave, you do mean those three heat sources as options, right? You aren't suggesting that they all be used together?

Just being nosy with the best of intentions

~Rebecca
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0.1 Dumeril's Boa '04 (Courtney)
1.2 Ball Pythons
[1.0 '05 Orange Hypo (Specter)]
[0.1 '05 Het Orange Hypo (Sylvia)]
[0.1 '03 Normal (Sue)]
0.2 American Pit Bull Terriers (40lb darling lap dogs:Brandy&Mara)

Sorry I wasn't clear, yes they are individual options.

You go ahead and be nosy....thanks for pointing that out.
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Thanks,

Dave Colling

www.rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com

0.1 Wife (WC)
0.2 kids (CBB, a big part of our selective breeding program)

LOL, to many snakes to list, last count:
13.24 BRB
12.14 BCI
And those are only the breeders

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

No Rebecca all three are just the different options available to you. The ceramic might be one the cheaper ways to go but like Dave said "get a bulb guard" since a basking spot of 85-90 is what you want and that bulb will get hot.

Flexwatt will not transfer heat to well from under a wooden cage but plastic would work. I'm not sure if can you put flexwatt in the inside of the wooden cage but definately a thermostat with probe would have to be mounted directly to the flexwatt to ensure accurate temps and no fluctuations.

Radient Heat Panels are the most expensive form of heat because it is the best. If it is wooden cage then options should be avaialable for mounting.

The best way to control any heating device is a thermostat with a probe and not just a dimmer or a light bulb over the top for basking. These are not cheap but there is a reason for that as well, but you get what you pay for and have all intentions in buying nice stuff because it will most likely be transferrable to cages if you choose to get same caging material just bigger cages. Flexwatt may not but it costs little to nothing but my require a little hands. Hope it helps.
Bob