The first plant is a Cryptanthus, which will do well toward the top of the background with the most light possible. The second is a Neoregelia hybrid of some sort, also, best grown (in your situation) on the background, as an epiphyte, although it can also be terrestrial, in well drained substrate. While there are many ways of attaching the epiphytes, I usually just stuff the "stem" you see on the Neo into the background substrate then criss cross either bamboo skewers or tooth picks beneath it to support it. It would help if you could tuck it above a part of the grapewood log for extra support. The Cryptanthus, which is also a bromeliad and can grow as an epiphyte, will have more true roots, which will seem a bit wiry, perhaps. You can peg it in place the same way without worrying about burying the roots.
While the tooth picks and skewers aren't attractive at first, both plants will put out roots and stolons to attach themselves more firmly to the background, and then you can remove your supports, or break them off in the case of bamboo skewers. You can also use thread or fishing line to steady these on the grapewood branch. I don't know much about "hot gluing" them, because I've never tried it. I just stuff it in, support it, and it attaches and grows.
Then of course, you need to begin misting right away and have some humidity and moisture available all the time. The Neoregelia will "feed" from the water and detritus that collects in the central vase and axils of the leaves. Most of what you see that anchors the plant eventually are not feeder roots, but stolons for support of the plant. And yes, they survive perfectly well like this, as long as they have the same humidity, temperatures and misting that dart frogs require. They are practically as unkillable as pothos, but then, we know how you managed to kill pothos, so that's a moot point.
There are a lot of lighting gurus on Dendroboard, and perhaps a few here, and it can get pretty fancy, but an aquarium hood of some sort with a fluorescent tube in the 6500 KV range will satisfy most plant requirements without over-heating the tank. Or you can use compacts in a lamp suspended about 4 to 6 inches above the tank, which might be a better choice if room temperatures get hot. 12 hours on and 12 hours off. The lighting is for your plants.
One thing to remember is that the farther away the light source is, the less light the plants will get, but the closer it is, the more heat it will put out, so you have to sort of judge this for yourself. Ordinary room lighting is enough for dart frogs to go about their business, but the general plant habitat needs more.
I'm sure you know that the darts don't require UV lighting, which won't penetrate a glass enclosure anyway, as long as the food items, like fruit flies are dusted with vitamins and calcium with D3. In the wild, darts do get some UV filtered through the rain forest canopies, but they are not baskers, like snakes and reptiles, so it's not really feasible to give them an internal source of it in an enclosed tank.
You are actually doing great, Andrew. You won't be sorry in the long run for getting into this hobby. You're my favorite patient next to Sexy Mexy.
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Patty
Pahsimeroi, Idaho
D. auratus blue
D. galactonotus pumpkin orange splash back
D. imitator
D. leucomelas
D. pumilio Bastimentos
D. fantasticus
P. terribilis mint and organe
D. reticulatus
D. castaneoticus
D. azureus
P vittatus
P. lugubris