Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have recentiy puurchased a new Baby CB Ball about a week ago. He/She is about 2mo. old (estimate). The ball was eating before I purchased it and ate fiawlessly for me the this past Saturday. The Ball is also very friendly, has not hissed or struck at me yet and I handle it daily. It's not the most active snake but when I hot it, it becomes very active and "exploritive". I have done a lot of reseatch before the purchase and have read just about all 9 pages in this forum but I still have a few questions. First, when I got the snake he she was about to shed and has done so, but in pieces. Some is still on the head and back. It does not want to come off so I got sme shed awa and started to use it. Will the skin eventually com off on it's own? I also have a lare dog and cat in the house and am concerned with how the snake would reack years down the road if it got out, would/could it hurt the dog or cat? How do you know if the snake is drinking water from it's bowl because it never comes out from its hide duting the day? Now that he/she ate well, and it was a medium mouse (I guess), how do I know when it up the size and quantity or change to rats. I am confused on how much to feed it, mainly not when, but how much each time. I will probably fee every 6th or 5th day while young, but when do I start to extend the days between feeding? I recently seen a pic on this post of a snake outside crawling through the grass, wouldn't this give the snake mites or sme type of bug? My last concer is the basking light, do I really need one? I have a heat pad, the temp is up, and the snake does not come out while it's on so should I use it? Maybe he won't come out because he doesin't like the light? However, the pet shop said I need the light because it gives off the uv rayse it needs (it a blue uv something bulb). In advance, I want to thak people for any replies and anytime I can offer advise, I will.

Thanks,
Mike

Mike, I will do my best to answer all of your questions, but that was a long post and my memory isn't the best so bear with me. First off, the skin that is left after a shed should be removed. This can be done by soaknig the snake is very shallow water for about 30 mins. Then take the snake out and use a small towel to "rub" the remaining skin off. This usually works pretty well. As for the dog and cat. I would not be too concerned about the snake hurting either of these. Most Ball Pythons are not very defensive and will coil into a ball when a preditor is around, and this is what I think most balls would do around a cat or dog. However with a good cage, a snake should never escape. On to the water, Ball Pythons generally come out at night, and he/she is probably drinking at night while the house is nice and quite. On to feeding, I would keep feeding mice until the mouse just doesn't leave a buldge at all in the snakes belly. Also alot of snakes will start "hunting" for more food after they have had a meal, this is an indication to go on to larger food, or more small prey items. As for taking your snakes outdoors. This is usually fine for the snakes, you may want to examine your snake when you come inside, however it is not likely for your snake to get mites or ticks from your yard. Most of these parasites are found on wild caught animals, and the parasites actually originated in Africa, and that is where the snake contracted these parasites. Last but not least, your light bulb. As for your lamp giving off helpful UV rays, this is a myth. Most, if not all, incandescent bulbs WILL NOT provide UV light, the ones that do are Mercury Vapor bulbs and are usually around $50 or so in pet stores. You can also buy UV bulbs in flourescent form, but with Ball Pythons neither is a necessity. Basking reptiles are the most susceptible to UV shortages, and since Ball Pythons spend most of their time during the day hiding and sleeping, it is not a priority to provide them with these light rays. The food they eat will provide them with plenty of calcium and deficiencies are rarely seen. You might still want a heat light though to help keep the ambient temperature of the cage high. alot of times Under Tank Heaters will heat the spot, but not the air of the cage. Get a good digital thermometer and check your temps befor getting rid of the heat light. Sorry for the long post, but that was alot of questions. I hope this helps and good luck with your Ball Python.
Jason

N/P

n/p

WEll man you sure do have alot of qs about this snake if you have read so much but i will help you.

~ If the shed does not come all of in 1 peice this means that you tank is to dry. Balls need 50 to 60 humid in the air. If all of the shed has not come off put your snakes hole body in warm not hot warter for about 5 mins the put a small cloth around its head and let the snkae crall through the clouth put some tightness when it goes through the cloth. also make sure that the eye caps are gone. Do this as many times asd it take to get theshed off. Make sure you get the tail sahed off bevause when i first got snake 1 of my snakes had this prob and we had to get part of the tail removed.

~ASs for the dog and cat this the ball python will not try and strick them. Only if they are trying to kill or play with your snake. The dog and cat are way to big for the ball to eat.

~Your snake wqill drink at night if you really want to see if your nake is drinking. Kepp the water bowl out for 3 days them place it back in at this point you snake should want a little water. my vet has asked me to do this many times to see if the snake was drinking.

~feeding all depends on how much you want to feed. If you want your snake really big power feed it , but this is very bad for your snake. power feeding is like giving your snake 5 or 6 mice/rats a feed. i would say feed 2 rat every 1.5 weeks this is a very good amount. When they are young. when the get to be adults feed then only 1 every 1 week. The food should be a little bit bigger the the snake thickest part of the body.

~I you want to get some good natural picks you can do it in the grass. Mites and ticks dont really live in grass its puting your snake is pine straw and damp leaves that is a big problem. Make sure that you look for holes in the ground brfore you put your snake down.

~I would say it could not hurt to have a UV bulb but you have just wasted 40 dollors on 1. Having the UV makes no difference on how the snakes eat/lives/ Ect. No reason for it. The heat spot is ok but ball dont come out at day. So no need just keep using the heat pad and make ure you have a hide on the hot side and the cool side. This will make it so he can pick.

~well good luck if you need more info look at the ball pythn care sheet at kingsnake.com caeshets. good luck
cody