Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have two pair of never before bred adults - all 3 years old. One pair are reds, the other are triple hets from Colubrid Concepts.

They have been cooling(60ish) for about 2.5 months and were pulled out last weekend.

What should be my next course of action to ensure some babies? Will be my first time breeding bulls btw.

Thanks!

WJ Long

There's a great article found at the link above near the top of this page in the Care Sheets/FAQs/Features section called Breeding Colubrid snakes. Give that a look, it is a great article for reference.
I would just make sure to not over heat the males, and do not panic if it does or does not want to eat. If it is feeding, don't overdo it. I would feed the female a lot though. I would think they were cooled long enough and 3 years old is a good age for them. One great thing about Pits is they can be left together unattended for long periods of time...unlike Kings and Milks[I leave mine togther for days quite often]. If you suspect they may be breeding when you're not around to see it consider putting them on newspaper which may get soiled. That will give you confidence they are indeed breeding. Don't be alarmed if you see the male biting the female, he is just trying to have his way with her...not trying to eat her. Most people I know wait until the female sheds once after cooling before beginning introductions. A little info about your set up couldn't hurt...what are they kept in and at what temps? Tom Stevens
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TomsSnakes.com

Like this right

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Jonel M. Lopez

www.spsnakes.com

Whohohoa!!! Those are GORGEOUS!!!!!!! Are they hypo stillwaters?
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HI Aubrey

Yes they are. Caught them in the act in 05 with the male displaying the "biting-to-hold-still" behavior. Take care.
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Jonel M. Lopez

www.spsnakes.com

If only humans could apply similar techniques huh? hehe! Great picture....there's nothing like the feeling of confidence you have after seeing your males that determined to complete the mission. Tom Stevens
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TomsSnakes.com

Beautiful pair of stillwaters Jonel. Randy W.

They are housed in large 41 qt rubbermaids right now. The biggest is in a much larger cage. Temps are standard - high 80's on the hot end and room temp(77) on the other. A couple have shed, one of the biggest female is in shed right now. I was told to put them together for 24 hours once a week and I will get eggs.

ok...you said..:They are housed in large 41 qt rubbermaids right now. The biggest is in a much larger cage. Temps are standard - high 80's on the hot end and room temp(77) on the other. A couple have shed, one of the biggest female is in shed right now. I was told to put them together for 24 hours once a week and I will get eggs.:

I know you can breed Pits in 41 qt containers, however I prefer much larger boxes. It is just a preference....but you can score ones as large as 74 quart and I think they're more suitable. If you had a larger container, the temps you mention as standard may be fine...but I'd be concerned in your case. Sometimes too much heat can affect a males fertility. I think high 80s is too warm anyway, I don't like to see my hot spot over 85, actually closer to 80 and prefer a cool side as cool as I can get.

I think the 24 hours once a week is not going to give you very favorable odds. They're not cannibals, I'd leave them together for no less than 3 days together, then 3 days apart. Some feel there's a "window" the snakes need to capitalize on and if you miss it...you may blow your chance for the year. Once I see a ot of courting and breeding I feel better about removing the male, but if they're breeding up a storm I only remove him to feed the female. Just remember, eventually you will have to fit a nest box in the cage for eggs, and snakes at times do not like the boxes we offer them to nest in. A larger cage means you can use a larger nest box and also get a better temperature gradient. I do not think any Pits would want to lay their eggs anywhere near someplace in the high 80s, after all incubation is often done at 82 degrees or lower. Hope this helps Tom Stevens

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TomsSnakes.com

Tom

Thanks very much. I have turned off the heat in their cages. Room temp is about 77 and their cage is a steady 79-80, and not much of a gradient right now - should I make a gradient?

I will get a bigger cage for them. Should I offer the females tons of food, and give the males little?

WJ

A gradient is not an easy thing to deal with. Many people are surprised my snake room is so cool, but that's how I have a warm side and a cooler side. You probably will get a bit of a night time drop in temps, the snakes will probably appreciate it...what you want to do now is monitor temps morning afternoon and night to see what is happening.Then you can decide hwo to fine tune things. You may want to give them extra heat mid day...maybe not. If possible maybe try one pair one way and another a little differently.
As far as males and feeding goes many times males will stop feeding during breeding season, and your females may seem ravenous. Just let them tell you what they want, they will either be interested in food or they won't. Time will tell. For now get an idea of what potential you have to mess with thier cage temps now before breeding season is here so you can best modify things to suit the type of snakes you have. If you are having trouble getting a gradient you may want to simply get a smaller heat source. This way you can offer a small corner of the cage as a very hot area without overheating the entire cage. Experimentation is the only way to see what's what. Keep on eye on things and just keep track of feeding and pooping and when the female sheds. Hope this helps Tom Stevens
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TomsSnakes.com

Again, thanks for all the info.

What have done so far, is I lowered the temps in my snake room to about 70(a.m.) and I will turn back on the heat in their cage to give them a warm spot - I will monitor the temp in the back and try and get it around 85 tops.

Right now all 4 bulls are eating - I am feeding the females heavily and the males about half as much - I have read where it is best to keep males on the slim side.

Once the females shed, I will start pairing them up for 3 days at a time, for example Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, then take them apart for the rest of the week.

Sound like a good plan? I also will get the other female a larger cage.

WJ

I think that is a good plan. If the snakes cooperate and are breeding heavily let them do their thing and leave the male in a bit longer, just remove him for feeding. I wait about 2 or 3 days after they're fed and let them do thier thing again. Keep us posted and good luck. Tom Stevens
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TomsSnakes.com

Much thanks Tom! You have been a great help.

One more thing though! ehhe..sorry..

I have the two big females in 4x30x18 cages with the said temps. Big enough?

Also, can the males, which are smaller, live ok in the 41qt tubs? I not only want to breed them, but give them a nice life too.

Males are about 4' females are over 5' and thick.

WJ

Many Pit people encourage large cages, yet others do fine in small set ups of all kinds. As long as your snakes are healthy and seem stress free things should be fine.
If you read my article about becoming a breeder you will see I mention here I do exactly what you just said. I keep the females in large containers and the males in smaller ones. Many of my colubrids [not really Pits though] double clutch and the males spend a signifigant amount of time in the large cage and get excersize chasing their mates around. Now that some of my male Pits are huge they are kept in 74 qt boxes...I'd really be lovin it if I had 6 foot cages with 12 square foot of floorspace for my larger Pits...but we must make do with what we have ya know? Glad to help Tom Stevens
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TomsSnakes.com

Double clutching? Difficult? I am going to your site right now to read more.

WJ