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Atvar's illness

Leto Feb 27, 2007 07:11 PM

I lost my job a while back and- wouldn't you know it?- one of our UVB bulbs burned out at the same time. I know this is utterly unworkable, but we've been letting my two six-year old uros rotate its use.

Muad'Dib, my Rainbow Benti, has always been sickly, and has undoubtedly had the light more than Atvar, my Ornate- a beautiful, husky (but not overweight), well-formed lizard who loves to eat and who has always been very active. But the other day I noticed what looks like a white, powdery substance on his tail, with one spot on his right hind leg. Atvar seems rather lethargic now, and doesn't seem hungry. He "suns" himself under his lamp for long periods, even though he would probably usually be brumating

I've heard horror stories about tail rot, and I'm terrified for the little guy. He has *not* been wet. He may be suffering from a calcium deficiency or an inability to metabolize calcium due to the absence of UVB.

By hook or by crook, we're getting him back on UVB. I have a UVB lamp but haven't used it because we've been going with a combo UVB/heat lamp. I think Atvar will get the remaining one, and Little Guy can make do with the UVB until we can get both of them set right.

I also plan to start mega-dosing him with calcium powder on his , whether he likes it or not (he doesn't). HIs diet, BTW, has always been heavy on collards, which I understand is the most nutritionally balanced green for uros.

Then, too, he's going to the vet ASAP. But does the above sound reasonable? In the absence of moisture, is tail rot a real threat? What does it sound like you you guys?

When I first noticed the white stuff, I thought it might be dust from his stone cave, if that gives you any hint as to what it looks like. Unfortunately, I lack the resources to send or post a picture.

Replies (9)

arredondo Feb 27, 2007 07:18 PM

Collards as the most nutritionally balanced?? Are you sure that's correct?

Leto Feb 27, 2007 07:23 PM

That's what I've read. Turnip greens were said to be the most nutritious, but collards the most balanced. He gets lots of collards, followed by turnip and mustard greens.

Is this less than optimal? If so, I'd like to correct the balance ASAP!

arredondo Feb 27, 2007 07:36 PM

Not being any sort of nutritionist, I just go by what I read. My understanding is that mustards & turnips should be more the staple than collards, collards being fed more sparingly.
We've kept our Uros very healthy for years on an every-other-day feeding of primarily turnips, mustards, bok choy, endive & radicchio. During spring & summer we go heavy on flowers & the leaves of the flowering plants.
Maybe collards are high in oxilates? Doug could tell us if his ears are on!

debb_luvs_uros Feb 28, 2007 07:05 AM

"Turnip greens were said to be the most nutritious, but collards the most balanced. He gets lots of collards, followed by turnip and mustard greens."

All three of these items are considered moderate to high goitrogens. If most of the diet consists of goitrogenic foods, I would suggest changing the diet. There is no doubt that collards and turnip greens are packed with quite a few beneficial vitamins and minerals but they also have their drawbacks- the major one being that they are known to be rather high in glucosinolates.

While many leafy greens have or produce some level of oxalates, mustard is considered one of the greens on the higher end (those plants we routinely feed) for glucosinolate and oxalate production. With mustard having a couple of moderately high negatives, I do not use it in my diet. I do supplement a few collard and turnip greens into my diet on a rotational basis. As with most things in life-the key is moderation. If you want to use some of the items known to be a little higher in glucosinolates and/or oxalates, then rotate these items into the diet rather than feeding several with the same drawback on a consistent basis.

Regarding the mega dosing with calcium… I agree with what kinyonga posted. You do not want to mega dose with anything. Just make sure that you are providing a calcium supplement with d3 and are using it sparingly several times per week.

I doubt the lack of uvb would result in tail rot but then again, stressors can lead to opportunist infections so I guess the stress of a lighting change could possible trigger a tail infection. I would double check more common stressors like enclosure temperature. It never hurts to have a fecal run as something as simple as changing lighting could be enough stress for some animals to result in a normal parasite load suddenly flourishing out of control. The white powdery residue you describe could be many things including bacteria or even a fungus. Unfortunately, only a vet who runs diagnostic tests will be helpful in answering this question and anything else would be pure speculation.

Good luck Bob.

leto Mar 05, 2007 04:35 PM

Thanks, Deb. Your thorough response is very helpful.

I have some good news: the spots are coming off! Or at least most of them are. Since Atvar is an ornate who has reached sexual maturity, his cheeks and snout have turned dark. The normal light highlights in his pattern stand out. The "spots" on his tail seem to be areas of light coloration which looked suspicious without adequate lighting, and I've about concluded that the others were merely the remnants of a bad shed. He's as frisky and active as normal, so it looks like I've been an overprotective dad.

One other thing: Doug Dix told me to be very careful with collards and mustard greens (anything in the mustard family) with ornates and their allies. Apparently they're very sensitive to them. He recommends that they comprise no more than twenty percent of their diet.

Again, my thanks to you guys who have helped out in what seems to have been a totally unnecessary, but nevertheless very genuine, panic attack on my part!

kinyonga Feb 27, 2007 09:13 PM

You said..."I also plan to start mega-dosing him with calcium powder on his , whether he likes it or not (he doesn't). HIs diet, BTW, has always been heavy on collards, which I understand is the most nutritionally balanced green for uros"...why are you meta-dosing him with calcium? UVB helps them produce vitamin D3 which allows them to use the calcium. If you are short-changing him on the UVB then extra calcium won't solve the problem....D3 will. D3 is fat soluble though and can build up in the system. As for the diet you are giving them...it should be much broader. I feed my uros greens (dandelion, collards, kale, endive, ROMAINE lettuce, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet red peppers, sweet potato, zucchini, etc.) and a tiny bit of fruit (apple, pear, melon, berries, etc.). Once in a while I give them a few dry lentils too. I dust the "salads" with calcium at most feedings.

Hope your uros will be okay.

Leto Feb 28, 2007 05:44 PM

Thanks for the advice and the good wishes!

I had a chance to observe Atvar more closely this morning, with a light in, and also to talk to Doug Dix about him.

Doug recommends endive as the main ingredient, and warns against both mustard and collard greens because Ornates and allied species are exceptionally sensitive to them.

The "powder" is the skin under his scales, which are sticking up slightly on his thighs and around his tail. There are definite white spots and lumps as well.

Doug suspects a fungus infection, most likely because our apartment isn't humid enough! He suggests that we soak both our uros, and apply an ointment of 50% Neosporin and 50% athlete's foot paste to his spots and lumps daily. Meanwhile, we're going to try to come by a digital photo of Big Guy and send it to him.

It's good to now that this board is available for help and advice! I appreciate it, people. And so does Atvar.

debb_luvs_uros Feb 28, 2007 09:32 PM

"Doug suspects a fungus infection, most likely because our apartment isn't humid enough! He suggests that we soak both our uros, and apply an ointment of 50% Neosporin and 50% athlete's foot paste to his spots and lumps daily. Meanwhile, we're going to try to come by a digital photo of Big Guy and send it to him."

Like I said Bob, everything is speculation unless you have a veterinarian running diagnostics. Instead of guessing and possibly exacerbating the situation, my suggestion would be to take the animal to the vet and have the growth cultured. This way you know the exact course of treatment needed (or not needed) and the possibility of causing more harm or damage is taken out of the equation.

Leto Mar 03, 2007 04:12 PM

An excellent suggestion. Thanks!

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