Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Welcome to kingsnake.com's message board system. Here you may share and discuss information with others about your favorite reptile and amphibian related topics such as care and feeding, caging requirements, permits and licenses, and more. Launched in 1997, the kingsnake.com message board system is one of the oldest and largest systems on the internet.

Click here for Dragon Serpents
Click for 65% off Shipping with Reptiles 2 You
Click here to visit Classifieds

Heat Problem From Fluorescent

lepidus-klauberi Feb 28, 2007 12:00 AM

I currently keep 73 Crotalus lepidus klauberi in specially built cages (Greg Maxwell style), with measurements of 49" long x 24" deep x 20" tall. On one end of the cage I use a Pro Products heat panel for basking and in front of the cage I have a 36" undercabinet fluorescent light. Additionally, ther are four vents spaced equally along the back of the cage. I am having problems getting a "cool end".

The klauberi room temps range between 71 and 77 degrees. The Pro Products heat panel is run by a Johnsons Control and is set at 84 degrees. However, my problem is the fluoresent fixture. When I turn off the heat panel the temps still soar to 82 degrees and it comes from the light/casing.

Has anybody ever purchased fluorescent light end caps and ballast separately? I was told that reef aquarium enthusiasts use this method and would like to know if any of you have this experience.
-----
John Blume
Lepidus & Klauberi Fanatic

Replies (3)

bighurt Feb 28, 2007 01:00 AM

I personally havn't done it but as a past aquarist, it can be done. I don't have any help other than follow the manufactures recommendations on installation. For example you can buy seperate ballasts at the big box stores. They probally have a recommended installation distance on the instructions. I imagine they have to be relatively close but hanging the ballest on the back of the cage is not outside what I would think is an acceptable distance from the elements. Again this is common sense as I havn't checked them ever. At any rate if you just kept the wire lengths the same as the manufactured unit it wouldn't change anything.

Sorry couldn't be of more help.
-----
Jeremy

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow RTB's
1.1 Hypomelenistic RTB's
0.2 Pastel Hypo RTB's
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino RTB's
0.1 Suriname RTB
0.1 Anerthrystic RTB
0.0.10 Red Bearded Dragons
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.2 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
1.0 Child

bsharrah Feb 28, 2007 05:07 AM

You could also try a smaller light. A 36" light for a 49" cage seems a bit large. I wouldn't use anything larger than 24" but think an 18" under cabinent light will do just fine.

Bart

chris_harper2 Feb 28, 2007 08:02 AM

I used to keep both klauberi and the nominates, albeit nowhere near 73! One of my favorite Crotalus ssp.

I have also had problems with ballasts contributing too much heat to cages. Typically I just locate the position of the ballast and try to get it near the primary radiant heat source as much as possible. Usually this means just turing the light around, although I don't know if it will work in your case.

Otherwise, I have also heard of just taking the ballast out of the fixture and using longer wire to place the ballast where one needs, even outside of cages. I have not done this myself, although I do recall once putting a new ballast in a fixture and moving it as far to one end of the fixture as I could.
-----
Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Jave local (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

1.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Celebes locale (Black & Tan)

Site Tools