Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello,

I am so excited. I finally received my first pair of banded gilas. Anyways, I was wondering what everyone here would suggest when talking about handling them. I obviously know that they aren't pets that should be handled, but I will still need to move and handle them from time to time to clean there cage and change there water. I will also need to inspect them from time to time just like my snakes. How do you guys handle or move your gilas when you need to clean cages, change water, etc? Do those kevlar heavy duty gloves work? Should I also get some tongs of some sort. Sorry for all the questions, but these are my first "hot" species in my collection. I also have 27 ball pythons and 6 boas. Hope someones responds.

HOOPY

So, you have purchased your first venomous creatures, and have no idea how to handle them? Nothing like prior planning, huh? Well, it's a tad late to go looking for someone experienced to help you, but we'll try. Not so much for your benefit, understand, but for the animal's benefit. I'm not trying to necessarily give you a hard time...that's just a little bonus. You need to understand that a Gila (even a small one) is capable of inflicting a bite, the pain resulting from which can only be described as exquisite. And once they latch on, they are tenacious.

Oh well..here goes:

My experience with Gilas and techniques for handling them may be different from others, so you may get some differing ideas here from other folks. My advice is to listen to all of them and find the ones that work best for you.

1. Gilas are individuals. I've seen some that were puppy-dog tame and some that hissed and threatened any time you get near them. Just because he acts tame, don't think for a second that he won't bite.

2. You have them now. They are your responsibility and you voluntarily signed on for it. No matter how afraid you are of them, you have to care for them or get rid of them to someone who will.

3. House them in separate cages. With your level of experience, two Gilas in the same cage is an invitation for disaster.

4. Tape some ammonia inhalers to the cages. You will need that to make it turn loose when it latches on to your hand. Believe me, you will be in a mighty hurry and you won't be in a mood to have to look for the inhalers. If it bites you, break one of the inhalers open and hold it in front of the Gila's face. That usually will make them turn loose. Other things that might work are pouring some alcohol in it's mouth and holding it under running water. Eventually it will turn loose on it's own, but it can get pretty exciting before that happens.

5. In my estimation, gloves are more of a hindrance than a help. Some people may like to use them, I don't.

6. Forget the tongs.

7. When you reach for him, NO SUDDEN JERKY MOVES, but move smoothly and with confidence. Don't hesitate. Once you start to pick him up commit yourself. Approach him from slightly above and behind.

8. The grip I use is with my thumb and forefinger encircling his neck and with one of his front legs between my forefinger and middle finger or between my middle finger and ring finger depending on how big he is. That's one of the things with Gilas. Depending on the size, you need to modify the grip you use. Small ones can be more difficult to handle than larger ones. Use the other hand to control the back half of his body. DO NOT CHOKE HIM!. A firm but relaxed grip is all that you need. Just enough to control him. If you grip too tightly you may end up freaking him out and have a struggle on your hands, or you may even injure him. Keep your fingers and thumb well behind his jaw. Gilas are strong critters. If you inadvertently get a finger on the side of his face, everything I told you about the bite will suddenly become crystal clear.

I agree with Oldherper on just about everything.
I own one cinctum but worked with a friend's retics and beaded lizard when I was working toward my VR permit. It is easy to become complacent with gilas...don't let this happen.
My gila is young (less than 2 years old), is quite agile for a gila and has a pretty nasty disposition. I own a pair of Midwest kevlar gloves (not the ones with the staples) and I usually use one glove when I need to reach into the cage to remove the lizard. Once I have the gila in the gloved hand I use my bare hand to get my grip and then remove the glove. I agree with Oldherper, the gloves are kinda clunky and I prefer to remove them once I have control. I was bitten once with the glove on and there was no penetration but I wouldn't put all my faith in them. The gloves are an extra tool to provide some added safety if you make a mistake...they're not a replacement for common sense and good aquired skills.
My friend's gilas were much calmer and I felt comfortable reaching for them barehanded in the manner that Oldherper described. This gilas were so tame they would make you feel like you could hold them loose in your hands. Don't ever handle a gila unrestrained no matter how tame it seems. "Tame" gilas are still venomous and will make you look like a dumb*ss one day if you don't give them the respect they deserve.
I don't use tongs with my gilas but if I was going to, gentle giants are probably the only ones that would be somewhat safe for the gila.
Good luck,
Chris

I'm no expert of Gilas, but here's how I do it that works well and seems about as safe as you can get without overly stessing the animal:

First, I use something like the grip end of a snake hook and hold it horizonatally across the top of his head from the side like you're pinning a snake, but with very little pressure. You're doing several things here, getting his attention so he's not startled when you put your hand on him, seeing if maybe he's REALLY not in the mood to be handled, and blocking him if he lifts his head suddenly to bite.

Next, you want to get the thumb and forefinger of the other hand around his neck. Put these two fingers together and bring them from above and behind down against the back of the neck, just behind the head. Keeping the fingers against the side of the neck and completely behind the jaw, slide them down either side of the neck and undernieth. Try to keep your other fingers basically in a fist so they're not out where he can reach them. This way your fingers are always in a position where they are hard for him to reach if he whips his head sideways (which they can do faster than you can react.)

Now you can safely work your other fingers under the body and bring the other hand around to support him.

This is much easier to demonstrate than to describe, but I hope it helps.
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Larry D. Fishel
Side effects may include paralysis
and death but are generally mild.