Reptile & Amphibian Forums

First a little background info on the snake in question.

I got this one about 19 months ago as a hachling along with another of the same age(they were 8 weeks old when i got them).
They were both in good condition but a week or so after i got them home we had an outbrake of tics.This was treated with the help of our vet but soon came back.
Another trip to the vet and the problem was sorted.
By now they had gone of there food and started to loose weight and we tried everything to sort this and finaly got somewhere but then the male seemed to go mad and developped bruising all over him.
Agian the vet was called but told us that there was not much she could do for him and soon after he passed away.
The female however pulled through and started to recover with the help of the vet.
She is now just under 2 years old. Progress is slow and feeding is still a problem.
Everyone says to try feeding live food but it is illegal to feed live here in the uk.
we did have a method that worked for a while but it wore off and now we're running out of ideas.
I have checked all the normal suspects(temps,food size,food type Etc)and all seems well.

Am i missing somthing?
If anyone can help it would be much appriciated.

many thanks
Criss

Few things that may help. Just some of my experiences.
1. How secure is the snake. What I mean by this, is does it have proper hiding places. I know when I first got my burm it would snap at the food and not wrap it. It would shy away from the food and so on. Is it in to big of enclosure. Also try raising the temps and humidity for a while.
2. When it comes to food. I have tried it all. Can you buy live food and kill it. I use to buy live rats and put them in a pillow case and smack them against a weight plate. (I hated this) Fortuantly it was only for a little bit.
3. If you can not offer pre killed then there is a couple things you can do with food unless you have tried them.
A. Warm the rat or mouse up in a plastic bag in a bucket of warm water. This seemed to have worked really well.
B. Try heating the mouse/rat under an infra red light. I was told that there is somthing about it that works well.

Funny thing is I went to feed on the tongs and it dropped in after a few feedings by accident and she ate it from the floor and then good from there until she passed away at 3.5, and she did stop eating for a few months.

You also maybe stressing it out if you try feeding to often or are changing things. Give it time and patients. Turn the lights out with the warm rat/mouse and it should be gone.

I have never had luck using chicken broth or anyother methed.

Just my thoughts.
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0.2 Rotts
1.0 Super Tiger
1.0 Amel Retic
0.1 Ball Python
0.1 Red Tail
0.1 Blood Python
1.0 Green Ananconda
1.0 Emerald Tree Boa

Wow thanks for that,i'll try adding some more hides and also up the humidity a little.
Also would making it more humid help with shedding as this has been a problem from time to time and this seems to be linked to the feeding problem?
How would you surgest upping the humidity? I've herd that too much causes breathing problems and that a bit on the dry side is better than too damp.

Many thanks
Criss

to treat the tick problem?

Kelly

somthing called Ivormec wich the vet mixed up and also kitten Frontline to rub on to the snake. Worked a treat

If you snake is having problems shedding then, yes the humidty is to low and the temps may be off. I think we found part or all of the problem. Yes to much humidity can be a problem but to dry also can cause the same thing. You want your humidity 60% or so. minus or plus 5%. Some people keep that higher some lower at 50%. Check your temps. This is somthing I just learned. My air temp on the hot side is 90 degrees, but the floor temp is upper 90's. Some people keep the air temp at a steady 85 degrees and then the floor temp on one side higher and the cold side lower. Try raising the temps to 88 degrees in the cage for a couple days. Along with the hide box, your guy should be ready to hit anything that moves. My retic was getting lazy with his food. I found out later he was sick and increased the temps and man he is out of control again for food. Good Luck and keep us posted.

Unless Kelly was your thought that the medication may have done somthing to the snake?
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0.2 Rotts
1.0 Super Tiger
1.0 Amel Retic
0.1 Ball Python
0.1 Red Tail
0.1 Blood Python
1.0 Green Ananconda
1.0 Emerald Tree Boa

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Criss,
My concern would be with the use of Ivomec (ivermectin) and Frontline for the treatment of mite and tick infestations on snakes. Ivermectin is a low toxicity insecticide when used with mammals, but it has been shown to cause neurological damage and sometimes death in reptiles with just a very slight overdose. The safe dosage of Ivomec for a boid is extremely small and an overdose is always a risk with its use. Frontline contains an even more powerful insecticide and neurological disruptor called Fipronil. It has a relatively low toxicity in mammals, but has been shown to be highly toxic to fish, lizards, and some bird species. I would be highly resistant to its use with any reptile.

While I obviously have no proof, the symptoms you describe for your male could be related to central nervous system damage, and the corresponding insecticide treatments you mentioned make this highly suspect. The difficulty in feeding with the female could also possibly be related to this as well.
Just my thoughts on the issue.

Kelly

Next time-try extra virgin olive oil. It can work wonders. And if you don't have it use UV it should aid in shedding.