Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Quote from Neon:

One really easy way to tell when a gecko is stressed is if it's "fired up." I.e., it's colors get much darker and more contrasted. I've noticed my geckos generally just fire up if they're angry with me like when I accidentally spray them while misting their tank (which isn't bad for them, they just don't like being hit with water ;P) and when I handle them. Long term stress can be characterized by lack of eating, and in extreme cases, stress can cause the gecko to drop its tail.

...so my gecko definitely has darker spots on him sometimes when I get in from work. I take him out and he gets fine, but also I've always had an issue with getting him to eat, even the previous owner had problems getting him to eat properly. Does anyone have any tips on feeding? He used to eat crickets and a fruit mix, and then I switched him over to the MRP by t-rex, but he doesn't seem to eat very much at all. I use a standard water bottle cap for feeding. I tried putting crickets back into his diet but he would just stand there and do nothing, or hide back in his leaves.

I don't think there's anything seriously wrong with him, but I could be mistaken. He does look rather thin, and I can see his ribs.

I don't agree with the stress and being fired up correlation (not that it doesn't happen). Cresteds will nightly be "fired up" because that is their normal color change from being dull during the day. When cresteds stress (like when I have them at reptile shows) their colors will change. The yellows, reds, browns will generally get a lighter coloration and the fires and harlequins will generally get darker. Misting cresteds will not stress them out unless it is ice cold water (use luke warm or a little cooler than luke warm).

As with feeding, I wouldn't worry about it. There is a reason why they are increasing in popularity... they are hardy. He is probably eating you just cant tell. If you want to make sure put a little bit of the CGD on his nose. He will like it off. If you want to see him go crazy for crickets, feed CGD for a while and then feed crickets at night when he is alert and watch him go wild.

Ryan Turnquist
www.RTReptiles.com

His problem is that he's not alert at all... and the only time he will actually eat is when he's at my computer desk with me. Because of the size of the dish I can tell whether he's been eating or not, and whether the food is just drying up.

I wish I knew what his deal was. Like I said he had a previous owner that had problems getting him to eat, too. I can see his ribs and all that. And like I said he wont go for cickets at all anymore.

I just wish I knew what was up with the little guy.

How long have you had this crested gecko? How long do you keep him out of his cage? Stress can be caused by too much handling and handling when he really hasn't had a chance to get used to his new cage.

I suggest not to take him out of his cage at all for the next couple weeks. Only go into the cage to feed, mist and clean. Feed after the sun goes down and he is awake. Try different foods, as he may not be used to what you are offering him. Clarks gecko food (or gargoyle food) is much more fruity tasting and smells more like real fruit, which may appeal to him better (it also lacks all the unnecessary stuff that is in babyfood, sugar, coloring, flavoring etc). Try phoenix worms. These larvea of the black soldier fly are a perfect size for young/small crested geckos. They are less than an inch long (for the large, I recommend mediums, as the large tend to pupate faster since they are much closer to that stage in their life cycle.) They are soft bodied high in calcium and very wiggly, which should attract your gecko. Just make sure they are in a container with sides, as they can wiggle out off margarine lids easily

Next question; How big of a cage do you have him in? If the cage is too big, he may be having a hard time finding his food, and the crickets may be vanishing in the substrate before he even notices they are there (unless you use a bowl of some sort). I keep my hatchling and small crested geckos in a dry storage bin (used for pasta etc.) which is about 10"x4"x4". Some paper towel in teh bottom, fake moss cut to fit on the bottom, or a piece of fake ivy, and a fake branch of leaves. Vent holes are drilled into the sides. I feed using pop bottle caps, one for water, one for food (I don't give live insects, I use exclusively CGD from T-Rex as it is a complete food , doesn't require additional suppliments or insects.) The food is easy to find and the baby has plenty of room to move and climb and hide. Once he is about 4-5 inches long (with tail) and thriving well, I Move them to a 55L sterlite container (roughly 22"x16"x10"
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PHLdyPayne